Route of the Seven Lakes: The Ultimate One-Day Patagonia Road Trip

Planning a Route of the Seven Lakes Road Trip

What’s the Ruta de los 7 Lagos?

Running the length of Argentina in South America is the famous Ruta 40 (Route 40), one of the longest roads in the world. Ruta 40 starts in the very south of Argentina and cuts a path for more than 5,000-kilometres, passing right through Argentine Patagonia before continuing on north to the border with Bolivia.

While that incredible road trip remains on our bucket list for another time, our focus for this day trip is a 108-kilometre section of Ruta 40 in the west of the country called the Route of the Seven Lakes, one of the absolute best things to do in Bariloche.

Touted as one of the most scenic drives in Argentina, the Route of the Seven Lakes is a winding lake-and-mountain road between the pretty lakeside towns of Villa La Angostura and San Martín de los Andes in Argentina’s Lakes District. For this ultimate one-day Patagonia road trip, we’re also adding a stretch of Ruta 40 to include our start and finish point of Bariloche, the region’s largest town and an excellent base for exploring this corner of Argentine Patagonia.

There are a couple of road trip circuit options around the Argentine Lake District that incorporate the Ruta 7 Lagos, and which can be done over several days. With limited time however, our one-day itinerary is a there-and-back route that sticks to the paved highway. We talk about a two-day loop option further on.

The seven lakes of the 7 Lakes Route include lakes Nahuel Huapi, Espejo, Correntoso, Escondido, Villarino, Falkner and Machónico, and we stop at each of them in this one-day itinerary. There are actually many more lakes to be spotted along the way, but who’s counting when the scenery is this spectacular?

How to get to Bariloche

Bariloche is in Argentina’s west, in the foothills of the Andes. It can be reached by plane, car and bus from Buenos Aires and other parts of Argentina or Chile (we bussed in from the far south and bussed out across the border into Chile) and, less easily, by train and boat.

You can find more information about transport options on the Bariloche Tourism Website, and if you plan to travel here by bus, you can check schedules, prices and purchase your bus tickets through BusBud.

Best time to visit the Argentina Lake District

The Argentina Lake District is a land of four seasons, so no matter when you go, there will be a distinct seasonal tone and colour palette, and all the associated nature-based experiences.

In Summer, the weather is warm and dry, perfect for outdoor pursuits. Autumn is when the leaves turn and the forest colours are at their most eye-popping. Winter brings snow and a beautiful frosty ambience, while Spring sees wildflower blooms in the mountains.

Those in the know say the best time to drive the Ruta Siete Lagos is in Summer and Spring, when the weather is nicer and more predictable.

We were also told that peak periods, holidays and weekends – especially when the weather is good – can mean the difference between a great run from Bariloche to San Martin de los Andes, or an unpleasant traffic jam all the way.

Argentina is in the southern hemisphere, so summer is December to January, and winter is mid-year. January, March and November are said to be the busiest months in the region, and prices and traffic will reflect this.

We road tripped on the cusp of the Easter long weekend in April. It was pleasantly cool, the weather was overcast with occasional sun, the colours of the trees were spectacular, and we lucked out with the road practically to ourselves.

Is one day enough to drive the Route of the Seven Lakes?

The national parks and lakes of this region offer enough outdoor distraction to keep you busy for a week, at any time of the year. Both Villa La Angostura and San Martín de los Andes are charming alpine villages where you could base yourself and easily while away a couple of days exploring the surrounds.

So is one day enough to road trip the Ruta de los 7 Lagos out of Bariloche? As day trips go, this one’s an epic: the total there-and-back journey is around 380 kilometres. But we’ve done it and we can attest to the fact that the scenery is so mesmerising, you’ll be stopping every 500 metres anyway. Our tip? Gather your mates and pool your driving resources so you can share the load.

With two days, you could slow the pace, break up the journey with a night in San Martín de los Andes (or camp somewhere along the route), and then return to Bariloche via the unpaved Ruta 65 on Day Two.

If a single day is all you have though, then this one-day itinerary will ensure you see all the highlights of the route – including all seven lakes – and still have time for a pint at the pub in San Martín before making the return journey.

Driving the Route of the Seven Lakes

There’s conflicting information about whether you need an International Driver’s Licence to hire a car in Argentina, with most car hire outlets saying you do. We both carried one, but on the day, we were only asked for our Australian licences and passports. Research the requirements for your nationality before going, but if in doubt, get an International Drivers Licence just in case.

There are petrol stations along the 7 Lakes Drive in Villa La Angostura and San Martín de los Andes, and also on Ruta 65, but to be on the safe side, leave Bariloche with a full tank.

There have been reports on TripAdvisor of car break-ins in some of the more secluded spots and trail heads on the roads around this region. Don’t leave any valuables in your car, and keep everything out of sight.

Set out early from Bariloche, heading east along Ruta 40. The time of year you’re travelling will dictate the hours of daylight you have to play with. In April, we had around 11 hours of light, with sunrise a little after 8am. That gave us time to grab some breakfast and then head out to catch the sunrise before setting off in the car.

Soon enough you’ll leave town behind, driving alongside Lake Nahuel Huapi (our first ‘official’ lake) with views back across to Bariloche and its jaw-dropping backdrop of peaks and forest.

Over the next hour-and-a-half or so, you’ll find plenty of photo-worthy moments to stop for. The scenery here, all of it within Nahuel Huapi National Park, is breathtaking.

Our first major stop is Villa La Angostura, a small resort town channelling Europe’s alpine villages with wooden buildings, a woodland backdrop and winter ski fields nearby. Enjoy a wander and eyeball the goodies in the chocolate shops that line the main strip, a part of town known as El Cruce.

We stop for about an hour here, with a welcome coffee break. We also pick up some empanadas to-go, to keep us snack-happy on the next leg.

Two-Day Option: Dwell in Villa La Angostura a little longer and head down to the lakeside area called La Villa. In summertime, boats leave from here for lake cruises. There are also short walks in nearby Los Arrayanes National Park. 

Stage 2: Villa La Angostura to San Martín de los Andes

This leg is 108 kilometres. Google Maps does it in 1 hour and 40 minutes, but we’ve got lots of stops so don’t rush, give it more like 3 hours. 

Strap yourself in: Villa la Angostura is the gateway to the Route of the Seven Lakes itself and while the views have been knock-out up till now, they’re about to get even better.

Back on Ruta 40, head north-west out of Villa La Angostura. You’ll soon pass over the Correntoso River, which links Lake Nahuel Huapi with Lake Correntoso.

We’ll meet Lake Correntoso properly in a little while so keep going until you see the sign for the Mirador Inalco on the left. Swing past and do a u-turn when it’s ok to do so, or stop by here on your way back; the views out over Lake Nahuel Huapi give rise to one the region’s more infamous legends.

The dark secrets of the lakes district

Did Hitler escape to Patagonia and live out his days in a bolthole on the banks of Lake Nahuel Huapi? Some conspiracy theorists think so.

The Argentine Lake District, with its alpine landscapes and European-flavoured villages reminiscent of Bavaria, is believed to have attracted many fleeing Nazis in the years after World War II, with Bariloche becoming a haven for fugitives like Erich Priebke. He lived a comfortable life in the town for nearly fifty years before being found and extradited to Italy to face charges for war crimes as a captain in the Nazi SS.  

That story is real, but there’s another dark legend that’s been doing the rounds here for decades. Just north of Villa La Angostura, on the shores of Nahuel Huapi, a wooden chalet is said to have been the refuge of Hitler and Eva Braun, smuggled there from Germany to live out the rest of their days together in secret. Inalco House isn’t on any tour itinerary, but as you take in the view from the Mirador Inalco, the rumour makes for somber contemplation.

Heading north once more, you’ll reach the turn-off to Osorno in Chile. Fight the urge to turn left for a quick hop across the border, and instead head to the right and continue on Ruta 40.

You’ll soon catch sight of Lake Espejo, the second of our seven lakes. Espejo means ‘mirror’, for good reason if you’re there on a still day. There are several viewpoints along the way; we recommend stopping when you see the turn-off for ‘Beach and Camping Agreste Lago Espejo’, the scenery from the beach is stunning, even on a cloudy day.

Two-Day Option: On the opposite side of the road to the beach, there’s a trail to Lake Correntoso. If you feel like getting out into the surrounding nature, set aside an hour or so to walk the path to the lake and back.

Back on Ruta 40, continue heading north. You’ll soon curve around to the right and travel for a while with Lake Correntoso on your right hand side. There’s a good viewpoint along here for taking in the scenery of our third lake, the waters of which are fed by the snowmelt of the mountains lining the shore.

Two-Day Option: Not long after curving back north on Ruta 40, you’ll pass the Ruta 65 turn-off on the right; this is the loop road back to Bariloche that you might consider taking on the return trip tomorrow. We’ll touch on this option further on.

The next long stretch of road is a beautiful, serene run through the forested mountainscape of Nahuel Huapi National Park. Take a break when you spy the viewpoint for Lake Escondido, our fourth lake of the seven, and the smallest.

Just over the hill is Lake Villarino, lake number five, a popular spot for trout fishing. Snap a few pics here and then head on up the road, past Lake Falkner (lake six), but don’t stop, we’re going to save that one for our return journey.

Continue on until you reach the sign for the Cascada Vulliñanco. There are several waterfalls along the Seven Lakes Route, but this one is visible from a viewpoint on the highway. When we visit in Autumn, the waterfall cuts through rocks surrounded by a multihued scene of reds, oranges, greens, yellows and browns. It’s a peaceful picture worth lingering over.

You’ll definitely be ready for a break by this stage, so push on past our final body of water, Lake Machónico (don’t worry, we’ll visit this one later today too), to San Martín de los Andes, the pretty, northernmost town on the Seven Lakes Route.

Want Patagonian glaciers? Read about our trip to the spectacular Perito Moreno glacier, a day and night’s bus journey south of Bariloche.

Surrounded by mountains, forest and yes, another lake – this one called Lake Lácar – San Martín de los Andes is a hub for outdoor adventure, with Lanín National Park offering warmer weather hiking, as well as kayaking and boating options on the lake, and the ski fields of nearby Cerro Chapelco drawing snow sports enthusiasts in the wintertime.

Stretch your legs exploring the heart of this lovely town, with its mountain backdrop, before finding a spot to either grab something to eat or, as we did, an afternoon beverage at a local pub like the Dublin South (no matter where you are in the world, there’s an Irish pub). Give yourself about an hour in San Martín; we’ve got a big return journey ahead of us.

Two-Day Option: If you’ve decided to take two days to road trip from Bariloche to San Martín de los Andes and back, this is the perfect spot to wrap up your first day of driving; there are plenty of eating and sleeping options here.

Tours and activities in San Martín de los Andes

Overnighting or even staying a few days longer in San Martín de los Andes opens up a world of possibilities for getting out and exploring this beautiful corner of Patagonia.

Whether it’s stretching your legs on a trail, paddling on a glacial lake, or getting stuck into something more adrenaline inducing, there are plenty of options to keep you busy, including the following activities in and around San Martín:

• Tour of the Lanin Volcano and Huechulafquen Lake: 7-hour small-group tour (max 15 people) | forest viewpoints, volcanic landscapes, lake lookouts and short nature walks | includes hotel pickup and drop-off in San Martín | check availability and book here.
• Lakes & Waterfalls Boat Trip: full-day boat-and-trail excursion | cruise across Lago Lácar and Lago Nonthué | hike through rainforest to Cascada Chachín | explore the Río Hua Hum inlet | book this full-day experience here.
• White-Water Rafting on the Río Chimehuín: half-day rafting trip | class II–III rapids | suitable for beginners and confident first-timers | includes equipment, guide and transfers | a fun, energetic alternative to the more scenic day tours | reserve your place here.

Where to Stay in San Martín de los Andes

As a popular tourist destination and the gateway to Lanín National Park and a host of outdoor activities, San Martín de los Andes boasts a great range of accommodation. The following options get consistently good reviews:

• Good value: Tunqueley Hotel – a friendly, centrally located hotel offering simple, comfortable rooms, and praised for its warm service, generous breakfast and handy on-site parking.
• Mid-range: Patagonia Plaza Hotel – a comfortable modern stay in the heart of town, featuring comfortable rooms, an indoor pool, fitness centre, and a mix of private and street parking options.
• Spend a bit more: Amonite Apart & Spa – stylish apartment-style accommodation close to Lago Lácar, with comfy, spacious units, relaxing spa facilities, and indoor pool and jacuzzi.

Stage 3 (Return): San Martín de los Andes to Villa La Angostura

Time to head back to Bariloche. We’ve got less stops between here and Villa La Angostura this time, so aim for around 2 hours. 

Our preference is usually for road trip circuits rather than ‘there-and-back’ journeys. What we loved about this road trip was that, despite backtracking, the constantly changing scenery, along with the fact we were seeing the mountainous landscape from the other direction, and stopping at places we hadn’t stopped on the way up, meant we never felt like we were covering old ground. We were still craning our necks, pulling over for pics, and wow-ing all the way back to Bariloche.

We kick off our return journey with a stop around 20-kilometres south of town at an understated site with a unique claim to fame.

At first glance, the Arroyo Partido is just a trickling creek that splits into two and cuts through the woods. Unlike normal creeks though, these two never meet again, but instead go on to deposit their waters into two different oceans – one via Lake Lácar to the Pacific, and the other via Lake Meliquina to the Atlantic. From small things, big things grow!

Once you’ve contemplated the unusual nature of the Arroyo Partido, get back on the road until you reach the viewpoint over Lake Machónico. This is our seventh lake, and it gets its name from an Indigenous Mapuche word that refers to the fresh-water crabs inhabiting these waters.

In the car, set the odometer to zero and keep an eye out; around 2.5-3 kilometres south of the Lake Machónico viewpoint, we’ll be taking a detour off Ruta 40 for a quick visit to Lake Hermoso. You’re looking for an unsigned dirt track on the right, so blink and you may miss it, but don’t worry if you do, there’s another turn off around 1.5km further down the road.

Once on the dirt track, you’ll travel for around five minutes until you reach the appropriately named Lago Hermoso, which translates as Lake Beautiful. This isn’t on the official Seven Lakes list, but it’s a worthy side trip. Pull up a pew on the wooden pier and take in the Patagonian beauty of the picture-perfect lake and surrounding Lanín National Park.

Back on Ruta 40, cruise on south until you come to Lake Falkner on the left. Lake six of the seven offers a sandy beach with a reeds-and-mountains backdrop. The distinctly English name of the lake is a dedication to an eighteenth century Jesuit missionary who never actually visited this area, but is famous for his studies of the people and environments of Patagonia.

From here, it’s a good one hour drive back to Villa La Angostura, so settle in and enjoy the late afternoon light on the trees and mountains.

Two-Day Option: If you’re taking two days to do this trip, this next leg is where you’ll branch off from Ruta 40 on Day Two and complete the loop route back to Bariloche along Ruta 65. You’ll find the left-hand turn-off around 25-kilometres south of the Lago Villarino viewpoint.

Ruta 65 is a 60-kilometre stretch of unpaved road, so the going is much slower (this is the reason we don’t take it on the one-day trip), but by all accounts the scenery is stunning, plus there’s much less traffic than on the Route of the Seven Lakes. When you reach the junction with Route 237, turn right and the road will eventually link up with Ruta 40 back to Bariloche.

Stage 4 (Return): Villa La Angostura to Bariloche

The final leg is 82-kilometres. We’re on the home run now; factor in around 1 to 1.5 hours.

If you feel like another reviver stop in Villa La Angostura, take the opportunity; it’s another hour or so back to Bariloche. Depending on the time of year, you may be making this last leg in the dark so take care on the final stretch.

Otherwise, enjoy the last light of the day on the winding route back to town, and revel in the highs of a Patagonia road trip to remember!