Bai Tu Long Bay Cruise: A Spectacular Alternative To Halong Bay

Legend tells how, in ancient times, an armada of warships bore down on the coast of a newly minted country called Vietnam.

The Emperor called forth the Mother Dragon and her children to protect the fledgling country. They destroyed the fleet by breathing a fire of jewels across the water. The gems transformed into thousands of rocky islands, a barrier into which the attacking fleet crashed and sank.

Halong means ‘descending dragon’, and it’s this folklore that gave Vietnam’s breathtaking gulf of limestone islands its name: Halong Bay.

The story of the dragons might be myth, but there’s a very real armada posing a modern-day threat to the waters of Halong Bay: tourist boats.

So when we decided to return to the area many years after our first Halong Bay cruise we wanted to find out if there were Halong Bay alternatives.

Our aim was to enjoy this amazing environment without contributing to the overcrowding and environmental issues that have sadly become synonymous with Halong Bay in recent times.

What to Expect: Bai Tu Long Bay vs Halong Bay

Our first Halong Bay cruise experience

We did our first Halong Bay cruise in 2004. As backpackers on a very short financial leash, we opted for the cheapest overnight junk we could find.

And junk was what we got – a creaky, run down, mozzie den of a boat with a couple of cheap plastic chairs strewn about the upper deck. Bitey insects aside, we loved it.

Even back then though, Halong Bay was buzzing. Leaving port, we joined a cohort of other boats all plying the same route.

Wedging into the dock for the climb to Sung Sot cave, we rubbed elbows with dozens of others on the stairs and looked out over a cove jammed with boats of all sizes.

Over the following years, we heard more about the increasing challenges facing this extraordinary place, in a large part due to rapid growth with limited regulation and environmental protections.

We were still curious to go back. That first Halong Bay cruise was accompanied by a mist so dense and persistent, we didn’t really feel like we’d seen the World Heritage gulf in all its glory.

Plus the two rolls of film that we’d shot there (yep, it was that long ago), had come back from the developers with blue and red lines running right through the scenery. Every. Single. Photo.

Halong Bay environmental challenges

It’s impossible to talk about cruising this region without acknowledging the pressure that mass tourism has put on Halong Bay over the years.

The bay’s global fame has made it one of Vietnam’s most visited natural attractions, which brings a set of environmental and management challenges that are hard to ignore.

Overcrowding on popular routes has left many visitors feeling like their dream cruise was more akin to a floating traffic jam.

Increased visitation has also led to concerns over water quality in the bay, shining a spotlight on waste and wastewater management practices. Sadly, these haven’t always been up to a standard you’d expect from a World Heritage area.

Beyond boats, UNESCO and conservation bodies have raised concerns about broader coastal development and how it may affect the integrity of the World Heritage landscape.

So is Halong Bay worth it?

The encouraging news is that Halong Bay’s tourism pressures are firmly on the radar these days, with UNESCO-level oversight driving work on sustainable tourism planning, visitor management, and tighter regulation of wastewater treatment and waste management practices.

At the same time, provincial initiatives to reduce single-use plastics and expand cruising routes into quieter areas such as Bai Tu Long Bay aim to spread visitor pressure more evenly.

While these steps won’t magically solve the issue, they do show active management and increasing expectations on operators to improve environmental practices.

Enforcement has improved in recent years, but standards and transparency still vary by operator, so it’s more important than ever to choose carefully.

At the end of the day, however, the Halong Bay World Heritage Area is still one of the planet’s outstanding natural landscapes. It’s a place absolutely worth visiting.

For the sake of the environment though, if you want to see it, we highly recommend going with a responsible operator that actively cares about the protection of this beautiful place.

One option is to consider our suggested Halong Bay alternative and visit waters less travelled on a Bai Tu Long Bay cruise. You’ll still be in the World Heritage area, and you’ll still be cruising Halong Bay to get to and from Bai Tu Long.

Why we chose Bai Tu Long Bay as an alternative to Halong Bay

Halong Bay is unforgettable, but for us, returning came with some degree of hesitation.

Hundreds of tourist boats now operate in the bay, ranging from intimate private yachts to ships sleeping hundreds. The vast majority follow the same well-travelled routes through the Gulf of Tonkin. Crowding and pressure on the bay’s most famous sites are hard to ignore.

A smaller number of boats, however, have permission to cruise into a much larger, but far less visited corner of the gulf called Bai Tu Long Bay. We decided that was where we wanted to go.

At first, we weren’t convinced. Researching Bai Tu Long Bay cruise options, we found that even there, the cookie-cutter itinerary was still at play.

Ultimately though, we agreed a unique itinerary was less important than finding an operator with a policy of responsible tourism, and the reviews to back it up. Offering kayaking as part of the itinerary was an added bonus.

While opting to cruise Bai Tu Long Bay doesn’t separate you entirely from the realities facing Halong Bay – after all, they are part of the same broader seascape – it does feel like a more responsible decision right now.

We chose a Bai Tu Long Bay cruise because it took us away from the most congested corridors and supported the distribution of visitor activity across a wider area.

Our 3 day / 2 night Bai Tu Long Bay cruise itinerary

Day 1: First impressions of Bai Tu Long Bay

Morning: Hanoi to Halong Bay (the journey east)

Many Halong Bay tours start from Hanoi, Vietnam’s vibrant capital. We boarded a minibus for our journey from Hanoi to Halong Bay and en route, our guide talked us through the story and sustainable tourism focus of our cruise, and his own experience working with the operator.

He filled much of our 3.5 hour drive with fascinating insights into Vietnamese history and culture, Halong Bay’s story, and the current situation facing the landscape and its floating village communities.

Travel Tip: Many Hanoi to Halong Bay transfers make a toilet stop en route at the Hong Ngoc Fine Art Centre, a huge workshop and factory selling all manner of art, textiles, sculptures and souvenirs at tourist-inflated prices.

Much of the art is created by talented people with disabilities, and you can see some of them at their craft onsite. There’s also a restaurant and a shop with pricey food and drinks.

There’s no pressure to buy, though you will be followed by attendants the moment you start browsing, so if you’re not interested in buying, just use the (very clean) toilets and wait outside for your van or bus.

Afternoon: Cruising into Bai Tu Long Bay

By early afternoon, we were aboard Treasure Junk and checked into our cute little cabin. There are doubles, twin cabins and a couple of suites on the Treasure Junk.

We opted for a double with ensuite bathroom, which was cosy but had more than enough space for our backpacks.

With the stupendous views outside and the various activities planned, we didn’t plan on spending much time in our cabin anyway.

We were also pleased to find a water cooler on the cabin deck, and glass bottles in our room which we could fill at the cooler whenever we needed.

Lunch was served as we started cruising Halong Bay, leaving the port city behind and heading east towards Bai Tu Long Bay. Soon enough we were passing clutches of the limestone pinnacles the bay is famous for.

Vietnamese food is one of our favourite cuisines in the world, and despite cooking for a crowd, brunches, lunches and dinners on the boat were top notch and consistently yummy.

By mid-afternoon we gathered on deck for a kayak briefing before setting off in double kayaks for a guided paddle on the bay.

This was the first real test of the Bai Tu Long cruise experience for us, and we were on the watch for crowds and rubbish.

Paddling for a little over an hour, we saw just one other group of kayakers and a single cruise boat.

We spotted a couple of bits of floating plastic, which we collected as we passed, a practice encouraged by the Treasure Junk crew. When we hauled out at a small beach, the crew immediately set about picking up bits of trash that had washed ashore.

The water looked clean and inviting, and several people went for a swim as we lazed on the beach. So far, the choice to cruise Bai Tu Long Bay felt like a good one!

Back onboard and anchored for the night in Hang Ba cove, we showered and made our way up to the junk’s panoramic upper deck with an icy cold beer, just in time for a superb sunset.

As the light dropped, guests were entertained by a pre-dinner cooking demonstration as other boats began arriving in the cove. We counted more than 20 before we lost the light.

While this did raise a few crowding and noise concerns for us, our guide explained that safety regulations require boats to dock together overnight in designated coves, and for the most part, it was pretty quiet.

After dinner, squid fishing was offered from the tender, while others gathered inside for films and board games.

We made the most of having the upper deck to ourselves for a bit of stargazing. Not a bad way to end the first day of our Bai Tu Long Bay cruise!

Day 2: Kayaking and a stormy sunset in Bai Tu Long Bay

Morning: A misty sunrise followed by caves and kayaking

We were up with the dawn on day 2 of our Bai Tu Long cruise. This is a perfect time of day on the bay, with mist swirling between the limestone islands and the first light of day casting a pale golden glow on the water.

While we practised our sunrise photography on the top deck (read ‘grappled with fogged up lenses’ – see below), others relaxed their minds and muscles with a pre-brekkie Tai Chi session on the main deck, another classic feature of a Bai Tu Long or Halong Bay cruise.

Travel tip – Beware the lens fog! There’s nothing quite as infuriating as getting up before dawn (especially when you’re a night owl), setting up your camera ready for a glorious sunrise, and finding your camera lens has fogged up.

This isn’t uncommon in the tropics so consider taking countermeasures, like sealing cameras in ziplock bags with silica gel, or getting outside with enough time to allow your camera to adjust to the temperature (and humidity) change.

Like many Halong Bay cruises, Treasure Junk runs both 1 and 2 night itineraries, so after breakfast the main boat returns briefly to port to swap passengers.

While this took place, those of us staying on for a second night were transferred to a smaller day boat to continue exploring Bai Tu Long Bay.

Our first stop of the morning was Co Cave, a pretty little grotto high up in a limestone island, with nice stalactites and stalagmites.

From there, we set out to cruise Bai Tu Long Bay for around 45 minutes until we reached a floating village offering kayak hire.

Kayaking is one of the most popular things to do in Halong Bay as well as Bai Tu Long, and one of the perks of a 2-night cruise is being able to get out for a paddle a couple of times over the trip.

Over the next hour and a half, we kayaked with a guide around stunning pinnacles, stopped to chat with local fishermen, and drifted into the narrow, water-smoothed crevasses of two small islands. It was scorching hot but serenely gorgeous and, again, we saw just one other group of kayakers all morning.

Afternoon: Exploring Bai Tu Long Bay beaches and a stormy sunset

After relaxing for a while on a small beach and kayaking some more, we enjoyed a tasty lunch before once again taking in the scenery as we cruised our way back to Treasure Junk.

We’d lucked out with a glorious day of blue skies and sunshine, but storms can brew quickly in the low season (we visited in August).

After showering and settling in for sunset with beers on the bow, we watched mesmerised as dark storm clouds gathered on the horizon and lit up with a golden sunset glow. It was a spectacular finish to the day.

As night fell, and the rain with it, we took shelter under cover and joined a cooking demo. We tried our hand at fried betel leaf with pork and mushroom (in the process confirming we’re far better at eating it than making it).

After a full day of kayaking, swimming, cave exploring and sun-soaked relaxation, we skipped the evening film once again and turned in early, ready for another spectacular sunrise.

Day 3: Floating villages and farewell to Bai Tu Long Bay

Final Morning: Tai chi, a pearl farm and cruise Halong Bay back to port

Our final morning found us on deck at sunrise watching the early morning Tai Chi session with a rich Vietnamese coffee, before boarding a tender boat to the floating village of Cap La.

There, we transferred to small, traditional bamboo boats for a tour through beautiful calm waters between karst islands out to a stunning limestone arch.

Local villagers row these boats standing up and it looks like seriously hard work! Tips are appreciated. We say they’re well earned.

The practice of pearl cultivating is a local tradition so back at the floating village, we were taken on a quick tour through a pearl farm and workshop. Apparently, it’s one of the more popular things to do in Halong Bay, so we weren’t surprised it was one of the busiest stops on our cruise.

Some may find this stop a little touristy, so if you’re like us and not in the market for pearls, you can simply make your way to the exit and hang out with the village dogs until the group is done shopping.

While the floating village houses we passed were highly photogenic, with hindsight, we would maybe skip the activities on the final morning and simply enjoy our last hours in Bai Tu Long Bay, with Vietnamese coffee and views.

Back aboard the Treasure Junk, packed and checked out, we sat down to a hearty final brunch as we farewelled Bai Tu Long and began the cruise back into Halong Bay.

By midday, we’d left the serenity of the islands well behind and were on the road back from Halong Bay to Hanoi, arriving around 4pm.

Note on costs and inclusions: While all meals were included in our cruise cost, along with pot coffee, tea and water, other bevvies like booze and Vietnamese coffee were extra.

We had a tab during our trip, and sorted out the bill on the last morning. Drinks are charged in US dollars and you can pay by credit card. The exchange rate onboard was steep though, so be prepared if you’re paying in Vietnamese Dong.

So did a Bai Tu Long Bay cruise live up to our expectations?

Yes! While the crowds and pollution at the port in Halong City had us seriously concerned at first, once we’d left the fleet behind and made our way into the waters of Bai Tu Long Bay, we genuinely felt as though we were off the beaten track.

While it certainly wasn’t what we’d call undiscovered, Bai Tu Long Bay doesn’t feel like it’s been overrun by the tourist boat armada.

Kayaking in quiet waters, swimming from empty beaches, and sharing the bay with only a handful of other boats felt worlds away from the scenes playing out closer to Halong City.

We were also happy to find very little rubbish in the waters we cruised, kayaked and swam. We particularly appreciated the fact that staff on our Bai Tu Long cruise made a point of collecting any rubbish they saw while we were on our excursions, and encouraged passengers to do the same.

This was a big part of why we chose Treasure Junk. Their stated sustainability focus (especially around plastics) aligned with how we wanted to experience the bay, and they certainly lived up to that.

Finding the treasure in the junk

Treasure Junk first caught our eye with a practical, pointed statement on their website about what they’re doing to cruise responsibly.

We also liked the fact they were honest about the scale and realities of the challenges facing Halong Bay, while rising to them with a focus on environmentally friendly practices, supporting local communities, organising annual clean-ups, and agitating for better standards across the industry.

The boat itself struck a nice balance between comfort and character. Treasure Junk is a traditional-style wooden junk with a relatively small number of cabins, which keeps the onboard atmosphere relaxed and personal.

Cabins are simple but comfortable, with ensuite bathrooms and good storage space, while the communal areas – particularly the upper deck – are well set up for taking in the scenery, sunsets, and those quiet moments between activities.

It’s not a luxury cruise in the five-star sense, but it doesn’t try to be. Instead, it feels thoughtfully designed for travellers who care more about the route, the pace, and the experience of being on the bay than flashy extras, which suited us perfectly.

Planning a Bai Tu Long Bay Cruise

Best time to visit Halong Bay and Bai Tu Long Bay

You can visit Halong and Bai Tu Long pretty much year-round, though the cooler months of Spring (March to May) and Autumn (September to November) are said to be the best.

Our first visit was in April, and we had mist and rain for most of our overnight Halong Bay cruise.

Our most recent trip was in August which, along with June and July, is low season. Storms are more likely over this period, so if you’re on limited time, check with your chosen cruise operator about what happens in the event of a cancellation.

We lucked out on the weather front though, with blue skies for most of our trip. We had a spectacular rainstorm on our second night, but it had cleared by morning. Roll the dice, this place is beautiful in all weather.

Getting to Halong Bay

Halong and Bai Tu Long bays lie around 170km east of Hanoi. Many cruises include pickup from central Hanoi, with a road journey of around 3 to 4 hours to the cruise port. This tends to be the easiest option for most travellers and is how we travelled to Halong Bay both times we visited.

The closest airport, other than Hanoi, is Van Don International Airport (VDO), located around 50–60km from Halong City. Van Don has regular domestic connections to places like Ho Chi Minh and Da Nang, as well as some regional international services depending on the season.

If you prefer to travel independently, buses and limousine-style vans run regularly between Hanoi and Halong City, with similar travel times to cruise transfers. These can be booked online through travel platforms like 12Go. You can check routes, prices and book seats here.

Private transfers from Hanoi, while more expensive, are another convenient option, particularly for couples or small groups. You can book transfers between Hanoi and Halong Bay through platforms like GetYourGuide, or via hotels and cruise operators. Popular GetYourGuide private transfer options include Hanoi Airport to Halong Bay, and also Central Hanoi or Old Quarter to Halong Bay.

While independent travel requires a little more coordination, all options are simple and well established since Halong Bay is such a popular tourist destination.

Where to stay before and after your cruise

Where to stay in Hanoi

Most travellers stay in Hanoi before a Halong Bay or Bai Tu Long Bay cruise, and it’s an easy, logical base. Hanoi accommodation options span everything from budget hostels and guesthouses to boutique hotels and high-end international chains.

We’ve visited Hanoi multiple times over the years and are always drawn to the Old Quarter and French Quarter for the central location, proximity to the lake, walkability, and huge choice of places to stay and eat.

Best tour options to cruise Bai Tu Long Bay

When booking a Bai Tu Long Bay cruise, it’s worth looking beyond price alone. Route permissions, group size and how time is allocated between activities and downtime all play a major role in shaping the experience – and these details aren’t always obvious when comparing itineraries online.

From our own experience, two cruises with similar-looking schedules can feel completely different depending on passenger numbers, guiding style, and how operators manage busy anchorages and activity timings.

It’s also worth considering how responsibly an operator approaches tourism in the bay. Bai Tu Long Bay is part of the same broader ecosystem as Halong Bay, and while it tends to feel quieter, it still faces similar long-term environmental pressures.

Smaller vessels, itineraries that avoid the most congested corridors, refillable water systems, and clear alignment with local management regulations, particularly around wastewater and sewage, can all indicate an operator takes sustainability seriously.

We found that choosing a company with transparent environmental messaging – and reviews that reflected those values in practice – made a noticeable difference to the overall experience.

Many travellers opt for either a 2 day/1 night or 3 day/2 night itinerary. While shorter cruises can still be enjoyable, an extra night on board allows for a more relaxed pace, particularly in the early mornings and evenings when the light is at its best and the bay feels at its most peaceful.

In addition to Treasure Junk, which we travelled aboard (and profiled above), we’ve outlined a handful of popular cruises below that we feel best align with our desire to cruise Bai Tu Long Bay with less impact.