Sicily Road Trip: Plan The Ultimate 14 Day Sicily Itinerary 

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Big scenery, epic history, rich culture, amazing food and wine: this is road tripping at its very best. In this post, we share our ideal 14 Day Sicily Itinerary, taking in the top attractions right across the island for a Sicily road trip you won’t soon forget. 

Tucked off the tip of Italy’s boot, the island of Sicily has been luring people to her shores at the crossroads of the Mediterranean Sea for millennia.  

Throughout the ages, waves of people – Phoenicians, Greeks, Carthaginians, Romans, Byzantines, Arabs, Normans, the list goes on – have all added their cultural spice to Sicily’s great mortar pot, creating the rich and vibrant society that exists today. They’ve also left an extraordinary legacy of living traditions, amazing historic sites and delicious flavours. 

Add to the mix golden sandy beaches and offshore isles lapped by azure seas, rustic villages where life goes on much as it has forever, beautiful Baroque cities and medieval old towns, monumental ancient temples, six World Heritage areas (with multiple sites to visit), sweeping mountains and valleys, and two of the world’s most active volcanoes. It’s little wonder Sicily continues to draw people from around the world today.  

For us, Sicily encapsulates everything we love about road tripping: roads through big, beautiful landscapes, layers of visible history, a vivid cultural scene and, best of all, pasta and vino!  

We came not knowing quite what to expect. We left knowing we have to come back. 

Our own Sicily road trip was just shy of two weeks and we loved it. With hindsight though, there are things we would do differently if we did the trip again.  

This is the result: a curated 2 week Sicily itinerary that takes on board our own learnings and experiences of exploring and driving in Sicily, and showcases the very best highlights around the island.  

A silver car in front of a black lava field with green grass patches on Mt Etna in east Sicily. 

Sicily Road Trip Snapshot

Start & Finish: Palermo, Sicily 

Distance: If you do everything in this itinerary, you’ll travel around 1,300km (810 miles) give or take; more if you do some of the suggested extra activities. 

How long does it take? This is a self-drive 14 Day Sicily itinerary. See further on for our suggestions if you have less time or more time.

Overnight stops: 3 nights in Palermo, 2 nights in Trapani, 1 night in Agrigento, 4 nights in Syracuse, 2 nights in Taormina and 1 night in Cefalù.  

What’s in this post?

Planning a Sicily Road Trip
Getting to Sicily
What’s the route?
Best time to visit Sicily
Where to stay in Sicily
Driving in Sicily
14 Day Sicily Road Trip Itinerary
Day 1 – Arrive Palermo
Day 2 – Palermo
Day 3 – Palermo
Day 4 – Trapani via Segesta & Erice
Day 5 – Trapani
Day 6 – Selinunte & Agrigento Valley of the Temples
Day 7 – Syracuse via Villa Romana del Casale
Day 8 – Syracuse
Day 9 – Day trip to Ragusa & Noto
Day 10 – Day trip to Catania
Day 11 – Taormina
Day 12 – Day trip to Mount Etna
Day 13 – Cefalù
Day 14 – Depart Palermo

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Planning a Sicily Road Trip

Getting to Sicily

Our Sicily travel itinerary starts and finishes in the city of Palermo on the island’s north-west coast. You can fly direct to Palermo’s Falcone-Borsellino Airport (also known as Punta Raisi) from various cities in Italy and other parts of Europe.   

As this is a looping itinerary, you could also fly into Catania in the east, or Trapani in the west, and set out from either of those cities. 

Alternatively, if you’re travelling by car from mainland Italy, you can take the 30-minute car ferry from Reggio Calabria in Italy’s south-west to the Sicilian port city of Messina on the island’s north-east, and make Taormina your starting point. 

What’s the route?

If you road trip Sicily with this itinerary, you’ll start with a couple of days in Palermo. From there, you’ll travel in an anti-clockwise loop around the island, finishing back in Palermo (for alternative start and finish points, take a look at the ‘Getting to Sicily’ section above).  

En route, you’ll experience the very best of Sicily’s natural, cultural and historic highlights: a mezze of charming villages, time capsule cities, ancient places, World Heritage sites, sensational food, and epic mountain and coastal scenery, including Mount Etna, one of the world’s most active volcanos.  

Click on the image to explore an interactive Google map of our self-drive 14 Day Sicily itinerary.

Is two weeks in Sicily enough for a whole-island road trip? 

Two weeks is the very minimum we would recommend for an itinerary in Sicily that takes in the main sites and attractions across the island. This is, after all, the largest island in the Mediterranean.

Our road trip covers a lot of ground, but we make up for the car stints with plenty of sightseeing and getting out and about.  

Also, while Sicily has many lovely beaches, we should note that we haven’t included beach time in this itinerary (we’d personally rather explore a medieval town). If you’re keen for some sea and sand, there are opportunities along the way to swap out some activities with time on the beach.

If you have less than two weeks in Sicily, we recommend you focus your road trip on either the east side of the island (Syracuse, Catania, Taormina and Etna) or the west side (Palermo, Trapani and Agrigento).  

If you have more than two weeks, you can slow the pace and add some down time, beach time, or more activities along the way. Some of the things we’d do with more time include: 

> Exploring Lo Zingaro Nature Reserve and San Vito Lo Capo in north western Sicily. 
> Sailing out to the Aeolina Islands, an archipelago including Lipari and the active volcano, Stromboli. 
> Visiting the Egadi Islands of Favignana, Levanzo and Marettimo off Trapani. 
> Spending more time exploring the Baroque cities of the Val di Noto
Sicily trip itinerary - View across the curving stone seats of the Greco-Roman Theatre at ancient Segesta.
You’ll experience epic scenes like this one at the ancient Greco-Roman Theatre of Segesta on our 14 day Sicily itinerary. 

Best time to visit Sicily

Sicily sits at the heart of the Mediterranean, which means hot, dry summers and mild, wet winters.  

Like many places around the Med, summer sees a rush on Sicily’s coastal towns and beaches, and prices reflect it. We’re not big fans of high heat or crowded sites so we would personally steer clear of Sicily over the peak months of July to September, as well as holiday periods like Easter.   

During winter, the temps drop, it gets quiet and you’ll find many sites, restaurants and activities have shorter hours or close down entirely. You won’t find much happening outside of the major towns.  

Based on our personal experience of road tripping Sicily in April plus some research, the shoulder periods of April to June and October seem to be the best times of year to travel as the weather is milder but it’s still not too busy.  

Where to stay in Sicily

It’s easy with a big itinerary like this to wind up staying in a different town every night. When we’re road tripping though, our preference is to find a place we can stay for a couple of days and use that as a base for day trips in the car.  

It means we can settle into our stay, get a little familiar with the place, and we don’t have to stress about leaving luggage in the car while we’re out sightseeing.  

All of the overnight stops in this Sicily itinerary are in cities or decent-sized towns with a range of accommodation to suit various budgets and travel styles. As you’ll be self-driving, you’ll want to look for places to stay with parking on-site or nearby.

We recommend you arrange your accommodation before you visit, especially if you’re heading to Sicily during a peak period.  

Sorting out accommodation and parking in advance also means far less hassle on arrival, particularly if you’re planning to stay in the historic centre of a town – many of Sicily’s historic centres have restricted traffic zones, meaning you can’t drive your car into them (read more about these in the ‘Driving in Sicily’ section below).

You can book accommodation for Sicily through all major booking engines. For this trip, we booked our accommodation through Booking.com.   

Driving in Sicily

Having driven extensively on the Italian mainland, and having also read plenty of disconcerting reports, it’s fair to say we were a little apprehensive about driving in Sicily. As we were told on more than one occasion, ‘road rules are more like suggestions’ here.  

That said, once you get to grips with the ‘every person for themselves’ mentality on the road, navigating the local approach to driving becomes much easier. Just be ready for it, and drive defensively.   

Unless you’re driving your own car over from mainland Italy, you’ll need a hire car for this trip. We’ve found Rental Cars has a great range of cars and competitive prices but we also suggest checking Discover Cars to find the best deal you can.

In the meantime, here are some key considerations when you’re planning to road trip Sicily: 

> Book your car rental in advance: This goes for every place, but booking your hire car well before you go means you can wrangle a better deal, and that can make a big difference in this post-Covid era of high car rental costs. Go for a smaller car too if you can: you’ll thank us the first time you try to park it or drive down a village laneway.

If you follow this itinerary, you won’t need a hire car until Day 4 as you’ll be spending your first couple of days exploring the city of Palermo.  

> Download offline Google maps for Sicily: That way you’ll have GPS navigation even if you don’t have internet. Also, bring a car charger for your phone.  

> There are two toll roads on the island, the A18 and the A20: If you end up on one, you’ll pass a ticket booth. Don’t drive through the raised barrier without taking a ticket. At the end of the toll road, there’ll be another ticket booth where you present the ticket and pay. On approach, keep an eye out for the cash and card lanes and avoid the Telepass (etag) lanes. 

> Avoid driving in the Zona Traffico Limitato (ZTL): You’ll encounter these limited traffic zones in most historic town centres across Sicily. Every entrance to a ZTL will be marked by a sign showing a red circle with a white centre. Some signs may indicate certain hours that the ZTL is active. We found it’s generally safer to just assume they’re always active and avoid them. You will be fined if you drive into a ZTL without a permit. 

A narrow road with a Zona Traffico Limitato sign marking the entrance to an historical town centre, a regular site when driving Sicily.
Keep an eye out for the Zona Traffico Limitato (ZTL) signs when driving in Sicily. 

>  Plan your parking: To be honest, when you’re road tripping anywhere, but especially in places like Sicily, finding parking can make or break your day. You’ll save a whole lot of time and stress if you work out where you’re going to park before you visit a place. John is religious about this and always marks up several parking options on Google maps before we set out. It makes a massive difference. Have a backup or two just in case your first choice is full. 

  • Carparks and street parking: Many towns have dedicated carparks or parking garages, called parcheggios. These are usually paid car spaces.
  • Street parking: You’ll often see parking spaces on the street or in car parks marked with blue, white and yellow lines. You can park for a fee in parking spaces marked with blue lines. Check the signs as sometimes hours of operation apply. White lines mean either free parking or residents parking. Again, check signs before parking in white line spaces as you’ll be fined if you park in residents parking without a permit. Yellow lines are disabled parking spaces.  
  • Parking when visiting ZTLs: When visiting any town with a historic centre, find the nearest car park outside the old town and walk in. If your accommodation is located within a ZTL, ask your accommodation provider for their advice on where to park. 
  • Factor daily parking costs into your trip budget: You will be up for parking costs on a daily basis throughout this trip, with fees ranging from a couple of euros for a couple of hours to €20+ for overnight parking in some places.

> Don’t leave valuables in your car: This is common sense and a general rule of thumb. Sometimes it’s unavoidable though. In those cases, have everything you need ready to go with you in the car before you arrive somewhere (including valuables like passports), so you don’t need to open the car boot. Make sure everything else is tucked away out of sight and the car is locked.  

Sicily road trip – A road stretches away into the distance with cloud-capped mountains rising on the left.

14 Day Sicily Road Trip Itinerary

Day 1 – Arrive Palermo

Highlights: Evening in Palermo’s Historic Centre (Centro Storico)
Total driving distance: No driving today. As you’ll be visiting Palermo over the next couple of days, save on car hire fees and collect your hire car from the airport on the morning of Day 4.      
Total driving time: No driving today.
Overnight: Palermo

Palermo is the largest city in Sicily and the island’s capital. A port city since ancient times, Palermo’s architecture, culture and cuisine have evolved with a distinct imprint of the diverse civilisations that have conquered and ruled here. You’ll notice Arab and Norman influences, along with Byzantine, Lombard, French and others. 

Palermo is also home to the ‘Arab-Norman Palermo’ World Heritage area, which includes seven sites across the city, plus the cathedrals at Cefalù and Monreale. You’ll have a chance to visit some of Palermo’s sites over the coming days.      

Travelling from the airport to Palermo

You can get from Palermo Airport to the city by bus, train and taxi.  

The shuttle bus is a comfortable, low-cost option. The bus company is called Prestia e Comandé and the journey from the airport to Palermo Central Station takes around 45 minutes to an hour. You can buy tickets here.

The train from Palermo Aeroporto station to Palermo Centrale station is also a low-cost option and takes between 35 minutes and an hour depending on the service. You can find timetables and buy tickets in advance via Trainline.

Taxis unfortunately have a bad rap in Palermo, with travellers often complaining of being scammed or overcharged. Uber Black launched in 2022 but is apparently expensive. There is no UberX.  

Benvenuti in Sicilia! 

Welcome to Sicily! Today is about arriving, settling into your accommodation, and getting ready to explore Palermo and road trip Sicily.  

Tonight, head to one of Palermo’s ambient squares, such as Piazza Olivella or Piazza Sant’Anna, for a wine or aperitivo, and plates of local Palermo specialities like arancini (rice balls) and pasta con le sarde (pasta with sardines).  

Night falls over the circular Teatro Politeama, a highlight when visiting Palermo.
First night of your Sicily itinerary, head out for an evening in Palermo. 

Where to stay in Palermo 

As the next couple of days are all about Palermo’s highlights (and you don’t have to worry about parking just yet), we suggest staying in or near Palermo’s historic centre, the Centro Storico. There are several districts in this area, including Castellamare, La Kalsa, Il Capo and Albergheria/Ballarò. The major attractions are around here, along with plenty of bars and restaurants.  

Palermo is a big city with all the diversity of accommodation options that brings. The following suggested options are all in and around the Centro Storico and get great reviews: 

Sicily’s north west corner

When we travelled, we stayed more than an hour away from Palermo in the village of Scopello and used this as a base. Our stay, Hotel La Tavernetta, was a real treat for us – it’s a lovely place with gorgeous coastal views.

With hindsight though, we feel it would be more convenient to stay in or close to Palermo, at least for the first couple of days of this itinerary.

Scopello is actually the gateway to Lo Zingaro Nature Reserve, famed for its secluded beaches, rugged mountain scenery, walking and birding opportunities.  

Lo Zingaro stretches away to the north and the town San Vito Lo Capo, which is said to be home to one of Sicily’s most beautiful beaches.  

Sadly, we didn’t have time to explore this area when we visited and we haven’t included it in this itinerary. But if you have more than 2 weeks in Sicily, this is definitely an area worth devoting a couple of days to. Alternatively, if nature calls to you more loudly than towns, then you could swap out the days in Trapani for time here instead. 

Day 2 – Palermo

Highlights: Palermo’s Centro Storico
Total driving distance: No driving today. Pick up your hire car from Palermo Airport on the morning of Day 4. 
Total driving time: No driving today.
Overnight: Palermo

Today is a packed day of sightseeing in Palermo.  

We love to get oriented in new places by joining a guided walking tour. A city tour will introduce you to some of Palermo’s top spots, give you an overview of the city’s rich history, and help you narrow down where you’d like to spend more time. 

Here’s one guided walking tour option but there’s also a range of themed tours you can take in Palermo, covering everything from the city highlights and World Heritage sites to street food and Palermo’s anti-mafia movement.

While you’re here, don’t miss the Palazzo dei Normanni (also known as the Royal Palace) and its exquisitely beautiful Palatine Chapel. Other must-sees are Palermo Cathedral (head to the roof for great views), the Byzantine mosaic masterpieces at the Church of Santa Maria dell’Ammiraglio, and the Arab-Norman Church of San Cataldo right next door.   

Also nearby is the 16th-century Fontana Pretoria, better known as the ‘Fountain of Shame’ on account of its marble nudes. The monastic neighbours of the day were apparently unamused. 

Marble statues of naked men and women adorn a fountain in Palermo Sicily.
Keep an eye out (and one eye covered) for the once-scandalous fountain, Fontana Pretoria, while visiting Palermo. 

Day 3 – Palermo

Highlights: Markets | Teatro Massimo | Capuchin Catacombs | Monreale Cathedral
Total driving distance: No driving today. You’ll pick up your hire car from Palermo Airport tomorrow morning. 
Total driving time: No driving today.
Overnight: Palermo

Start today by immersing in the bustle of one of Palermo’s outdoor markets. These are a legacy of the city’s 9th century days under Arab rule as the capital of the Emirate of Sicily. There’s a market in each of the city’s four historic quarters. The most popular for tourists is Mercato di Ballarò. The markets are open daily except Sunday and they’re most buzzy in the mornings. As with all markets and busy places, watch your pockets and keep your valuables close.

After the markets, maybe join a tour of the ornate Teatro Massimo, the third largest theatre in Europe. There’s also the morbidly fascinating Capuchin Catacombs, where thousands of mummified bodies line the walls. 

If you’re a World Heritage seeker like us, consider an afternoon trip to the World Heritage Monreale Cathedral. Take bus 389 from Piazza Indipendenza, behind the Palazzo dei Normanni and time your arrival for when the Cathedral reopens after lunch at 2pm (Sundays it’s only open in the afternoon).  

The golden stoned Palermo Cathedral is a top stop on a 14 Day Sicily Itinerary.
Kick off your 2 weeks in Sicily with a tour of the capital’s highlights like beautiful Palermo Cathedral.  

Day 4 – Trapani via Segesta & Erice 

Highlights: Segesta Archaeological Park | Erice‘s medieval streets and views | Dinner in Trapani
Total driving distance: appx. 115km (71 miles) 
Total driving time: appx. 2 hours
Overnight: Trapani

Pick up your hire car from Palermo Airport

Our Sicily road trip starts in earnest today and we recommend an early start. Get the shuttle bus back to Palermo Airport and head to the arrivals hall where the car rental companies are located.  

Remember to arrange your car hire well in advance to get a good deal. Check out Rental Cars and Discover Cars to find the right option for you.

Once you have your hire car, set a course for Segesta Archaeological Park. It’s a drive of around 35-40 minutes from the airport. 

Morning at Segesta Archaeological Park

The extraordinary Doric Temple of Segesta is one of the best-preserved temples of its kind in the world. So we were surprised to learn it’s not a World Heritage site. However that fact, along with its location in a remote mountainous setting, probably explains why it’s a little less busy than some of Sicily’s other ancient sites. 

There’s a paid park-and-ride system in place here, so once you’ve found a parking spot and bought a ticket, take the shuttle bus up to the temple. The site opens from 9am and the shuttle buses run every 15 minutes or so. 

There’s also a stunningly-sited Greco-Roman Theatre nearby, tucked into the summit of Mount Barbaro and overlooking the Gulf of Castellamare. It’s also accessible by shuttle from the parking area, or you can hike up to it in around 30 minutes.  

The great Doric Temple at Segesta Archaeological Park, with green hills rising and falling in the background.
The great Doric Temple of Segesta makes for an impressive stop on Day 4 of our Sicily road trip.  

Afternoon in Erice 

Back in the car, set the GPS for Erice, a drive of around 45 minutes. 

Charming Erice is a medieval hill town overlooking the coastal city of Trapani. The switchback drive up the 750-metre-high mountain is an experience in itself! 

At the top, there are several paid parking areas located near the town’s gates, which served as the guarded entry points for the once-walled city.  

Erice is a compact town of cobblestone streets and pretty plazas made for meandering. Its long history is still evident in the remains of fortifications and architecture from Elymian and Phoenician through to Norman and more recent times.  

Sicily Itinerary – A narrow cobblestone street passes between the walls of houses with a clock tower rising above.
The charming old hill town of Erice is made for wandering. 

Check out the 12th century Castello di Venere (it’s currently closed but the sight of the fortress itself and its commanding views make this a highlight). Tucked into the mountain below the castle is the 19th century mini-fort, Torretta Pepoli. Also near the castle is the Garden of Balio, a peaceful place to pause.  

Erice has dozens and dozens of churches. In fact, there are so many there’s a cost-saving ‘Church Ticket’ if you’re planning to visit more than one with paid entry. If one is enough and you don’t know which to choose, we recommend the cathedral, Real Duomo.  

Don’t leave Erice without sampling some of its tasty almond pastries. You’ll find pastry shops (pasticceria) throughout the town, but most people make a beeline for Pasticceria Maria Grammatico, an institution since 1950. 

Lastly, views. Half the fun of wandering Erice is stumbling upon its many epic viewpoints. If you can, time your visit so that you’re there late afternoon as the sun drops and bathes the whole coast in a golden glow.

Views from Erice over the coast to the north and the switchback road up the mountain.
When you road trip Sicily, you can expect epic views, and occasionally epic switchbacks too – the old hill town of Erice has both.

Kisses of Venus

Crowning a mountaintop as it does, Erice is prone to an occasional foggy embrace. Locals charmingly call it ‘kisses of Venus’, but those kisses are a literal scene stealer. Once the cloud moves in, the views disappear.

The fog may pass quickly but it can also hang around. If your visit to Erice looks to be under threat of weather or settled cloud, consider swapping your visit to tomorrow morning.

Evening in Trapani  

You can stay overnight in Erice, but it can get pretty quiet in the evenings, particularly out of peak season. For this reason, you might want to consider heading back down the mountain and spending the night in Trapani, where there are more accommodation options. 

Trapani is around 25-30 minutes from Erice. Once you’ve checked into your accommodation, head out for a wander and dinner. Via Garibaldi and Corso Vittorio Emanuele, which are among the city’s oldest streets, are particularly lovely for an evening meander. If you time it right, you may find yourself among throngs of locals out enjoying the very Italian tradition of passeggiatta (a leisurely evening stroll) with their family and friends. 

Trapani has been a fishing town for about as long as people have lived here, so you’re guaranteed to find a sensational seafood dinner tonight. Maybe try a steaming bowl of fish couscous; it’s the town’s most famed dish.  

Where to stay in Trapani 

Trapani’s historic centre is the more ambient part of the city to stay in, but prices are generally a bit higher and you’ll need to park outside of the ZTL and walk in. There’s a large paid car park at Piazza Vittorio Emmanuele. Some suggested Trapani accommodations with great reviews include: 

Day 5 – Trapani

Highlights: Trapani’s Centro Storico | Trapani Salt Pans
Total driving distance: 16km (10 miles) return if visiting the Salt Museum and surrounds
Total driving time: appx. 30 minutes
Overnight: Trapani

Morning and early afternoon in Trapani 

The coastal town of Trapani is the launchpad to some fantastic west Sicily adventures, like the Egadi Islands and Lo Zingaro Nature Reserve. But….these adventures will have to wait for your next Sicily trip. This morning, we’re exploring Trapani’s old town, the Centro Storico.  

Start with an early morning visit to the local fish market, Mercato del Pesce. Then wander out along the spit to the coastal watchtower, Torre di Ligny, for views back towards the city.  

Next, enjoy a stroll around the narrow streets of the Centro Storico. Along the way, check out the Cathedral of San Lorenzo, the Baroque Church of the Holy Souls in Purgatory, and the Palazzo Senatorio.  

Also keep an eye out (and up) for the astrological clock on the city’s oldest gate, the Porta Oscura e Torre Dell’Orologio, next to Palazzo Senatorio. 

A street of old multi-level houses in Trapani stretches away above a sea wall lapped by water and a small pebbly beach. 
Trapani, second overnight stop on this itinerary in Sicily, has a seaside history stretching back thousands of years.

Late afternoon at the Trapani Salt Pans  

Later today, jump in the car and head south around 10 minutes to the Museo del Sale near the village of Nubia. This small museum with a 17th century windmill tells the story of the ancient salt pans stretching south from here to Marsala.

You can visit the salt pans independently or join one of the museum’s guided tours to learn about the long and sometimes spicy history of ’white gold’ production in western Sicily. Ancient traditions are still used in the salt extraction today.  

Afterwards, have a wander among the surrounding salt pans. The museum usually closes around 7pm but check in advance. 

If you don’t feel like driving, here’s a guided tour of the salt pans departing from Trapani.

If you’re making your own way though, we reckon a lovely way to finish today would be to hit up one of the restaurants or bars along the stretch of coast here and enjoy an aperitivo, or perhaps dinner, as the sun sets over the sea. Something we wish we’d done!

Day 6 – Selinunte & Agrigento

Highlights: Ancient Selinunte | Valley of the Temples Agrigento
Total driving distance: appx. 185km (115 miles) 
Total driving time: appx. 3 hours
Overnight: Agrigento

Today we farewell Trapani and head south then east to visit two more of Sicily’s epic ancient temple sites.  

Vast Selinunte Archaeological Park is spectacularly located by the sea. Agrigento’s Valley of the Temples is World Heritage and one of the most majestic Greek temple complexes still standing today.  

This is a BIG day and if two large ancient sites sounds like too much, you could make a later start from Trapani this morning and head straight to Agrigento, skipping Selinunte. If you had to choose one, go with the World Heritage Valley of the Temples. 

Having said that, for us, Selinunte – off the beaten track and peacefully ambient – was a surprise highlight of our 2 weeks in Sicily so if you love history, we reckon it’s worth the effort to visit both. If you do, be ready for lots of walking – wear comfy shoes and sun protection. 

Morning at Selinunte Archaeological Park 

If you do plan to visit both sites today, we recommend being on the road by 8am at latest. There are a couple of routes from Trapani to Selinunte. The fastest route is inland and south via the the SS113 and takes around 1hr15. Or you can follow the SS115 via Marsala, which takes around 1hr30.

Selinunte was a thriving Greek colony from around the 7th century BC, set in a commanding location by the sea. Around 409BC, the Carthaginians invaded, killing most of Selinunte’s inhabitants and taking many away as slaves. The city never recovered and was totally destroyed 240 years later in the First Punic War. 

Despite its fall so long ago, there’s still plenty to see here, including the impressive Selinunte temples and acropolis (Temple E is the largest and best preserved), city wall remains, and the ruins of homes, shops and civic buildings.

What really struck us as we wandered the pathways here was the broken terracotta everywhere underfoot, and the giant piles of temple rubble. It really brought home the reality of Selinunte’s total destruction.  

Selinunte is open daily from 9am and closes at 5pm in winter and 7pm in summer. Allow around 3 hours here.

If you want to grab some lunch before heading on to Agrigento, there are a number of restaurants in Marinella, the town next door. 

A favourite place on our Sicily road trip – the ruins of one of the Selinunte temples rises above tall green grass backed by blue sea.
It may not be on the typical Sicily trip itinerary, but the ambient ruins of seaside Selinunte turned out to be one of our favourite stops. 

Detour via Sicily‘s White Cliffs  

If you’re making good time today, there’s a small detour you can make around 15-20 minutes before you reach Agrigento: the Scala dei Turchi, or Stairs of the Turks, a stunning stretch of gleaming white, meringue-like cliffs.     

For some reason, this place completely eluded our radar when we were planning our Sicily road trip and we’re kicking ourselves.

We’ve since learned though that after years of human impact, and for its long-term preservation, the Scala dei Turchi are no longer directly accessible.  

However, you can still view the cliffs from lookouts such as the Belvedere Scala dei Turchi along Contrada Scavuzzo, or from Majata Beach. There’s free street-side parking if you can find it, or paid parking near Majata Beach.

Afternoon at Valley of the Temples, Agrigento

From Selinunte, the drive to Agrigento is an easy 1hr30 cruise along the SS115.

Agrigento was one of the most important cities of Magna Grecia (greater Greece) from the 6th century BC. To honour their gods, the people of the city built a number of imposing Doric temples along its southern edge in the 5th and 4th centuries BC.  

Like Selinunte, Agrigento was conquered over and over, before Rome sacked the city in 210BC. Yet somehow, despite pillage, earthquakes and the ravages of time, the temples here remain among the most impressive and best-preserved in the world.  

Ironically, the Valley of the Temples is on a ridge rather than in a valley. You’ll see some of the site’s temple columns rising above the landscape on the road approach to the archaeological area.  

We parked at Porta V along Viale Caduti di Marzabotto. As you’ll be coming from the south, this is the first parking area you’ll come across. This is a paid parking site with hourly rates and a maximum day rate. The ticket office is nearby.  

Agrigento Archaeological Park is huge and spreads out across western and eastern zones on either side of the Strada Provinciale 4, with a pedestrian overpass connecting the two zones. It’s around 2km from one end to the other and an electric shuttle bus runs between them, costing around €3.  

There are seven Doric-style temples to explore and they’re all worth visiting. The most complete and impressive is the Temple of Concordia in the eastern zone. In the western zone, the mostly ruined Temple of Dioscuri has a lovely backdrop of the surrounding valley and the city of Agrigento rising behind it. 

We were happy to wander the Valley of the Temples on our own, and there’s an official app with audio guides you can download. But if you’re interested in having a guide show you around, here’s a well-rated tour that also lets you skip the ticket queue. 

Aim to spend at least a couple of hours at the Valley of the Temples. If you can stretch your visit through sunset and into the evening, then definitely do – the setting sun makes the temples glow and they are beautifully lit up at night.  

The Valley of the Temples is open daily from 8.30am to 8pm, and till quite late during summer. Entry is free until 7pm on the first Sunday of the month. 

In the foreground, five mustard-coloured columns rise to a pediment while the modern city of Agrigento rises in the distance to the right.
The extraordinary temples of World Heritage site Agrigento are a must-see on our 14 day Sicily itinerary. 

Where to stay in Agrigento

There are plenty of places to stay in Agrigento city itself, a 5 minute drive north of the Valley of the Temples. Check with your accommodation about parking though as there is a ZTL in the city’s historic centre. Here are some suggested Agrigento stays:  

We personally opted to stay around 5 minutes east of the Valley of the Temples in the suburb of Villaggio Mosè at the pleasant and reasonably-priced Villa Concordia, with secure parking facilities. This was well located for the ancient site, we just found the local eating options pretty limited. 

Day 7 – Syracuse via Villa Romana del Casale

Highlights: Villa Romana del Casale | Ortigia’s Cittá Vecchia
Total driving distance: appx. 225-245km (140-152 miles) 
Total driving time: appx. 3.25 hours
Overnight: Syracuse

Today, we’re heading towards Syracuse on Sicily’s east coast. This will be your base for the next four nights as you explore this evocative and historic city, and day trip to three spectacular Baroque towns in the Val di Noto region: Ragusa, Noto and Catania.  

First stop this morning though is the extraordinary Villa Romana del Casale, a drive of around 1hr15.  

Morning at Villa Romana del Casale 

If you see one excavated ancient Roman villa in your lifetime, make it this one. While there are various theories about who owned this vast and lavish home on the slopes of Mount Mangone in the 4th century, whoever it was had some serious means.  

The Villa Romana del Casale has been designated World Heritage, in the main for its mosaic floors. No less than 3,500 square metres of mosaic masterpieces decorate the villa. Covered over time by mud from the mountain, they survived the ravages of invaders and the ages and today, they are considered among the best preserved and most beautiful in situ mosaics ever found. This is a must for your Sicily trip itinerary. 

All of the mosaics here wowed us, but we particularly loved the the Great Hunt mosaic. This 60-metre-long depiction of Romans hunting and capturing wild and exotic animals in Africa is truly epic, like an ancient tesserae version of a feature-length film. Also look out for the famous mosaic of bikini-clad women playing sport – an unexpected insight into the times. 

The Villa Romana del Casale is open daily from 9am to 5pm, and until 7pm during summer. There’s a car park on site that costs a couple of euros. Aim to spend around 2 hours here. 

We picked up some sandwiches from a local pasticceria before leaving Agrigento this morning. But if you want to stop for lunch after visiting the Villa, Trattoria La Ruota just 3 minutes up the road gets great reviews.

2 weeks in Sicily – An intricate mosaic of men loading a bird and a deer onto a boat decorates the floor of the Big Hunt hall at Villa Romana del Casale.
One small segment of the epic Great Hunt mosaic that decorates a long hallway at Villa Romana del Casale. 

Leaving luggage in your car

Villa Romana del Casale is one of several stops on this itinerary where you will be stopping to sightsee with luggage in your car.

We generally try to avoid doing this as car break-ins are always a possibility, no matter where you are, and no one wants to spend their trip filing police reports, chasing insurance and buying new undies.

If you don’t mind a bit of backtracking in some places, then you might prefer to drive to your accommodation, drop off your luggage and come back. This is not always an easy option though. Villa Romana, for example, is a long drive from both Agrigento and Syracuse.

In these situations, we had everything important and valuable with us in our daypacks (which we carried with us), left nothing visible in the car and locked everything up tight.

We had no issues throughout our trip. There are no guarantees in life though, all you can do is plan ahead, take precautions and have travel insurance!

Afternoon and evening in Ortigia, Syracuse 

From Villa Romana del Casale, set the GPS for Syracuse. The drive can take up to 2 hours depending on the route and traffic. 

The ancient city of Syracuse has a history spanning 3,000 years. Once the most powerful city state of Magna Graecia, it went on to become part of Rome and then capital of the Byzantine Empire in the 7th century. Along its journey to the present, it absorbed the weaves of various cultures from right around the Mediterranean. Today, Syracuse is a World Heritage site.    

The highlight of a visit to Syracuse is Ortigia Island. This tiny walled hamlet is Syracuse’s Cittá Vecchia, the Old City, and this is where the founding colony was established.  

Ortigia is beautifully Baroque and we really enjoyed just wandering the streets here. On this first afternoon, if you arrive in time, you might see if there’s a walking tour you can join. Or check out some of the city’s key highlights, like the Piazza Duomo and Syracuse Cathedral. There’s also the 6th century BC Temple of Apollo, said to be one of the oldest Greek temples in the world, and the ancient Fountain of Arethusa

Aim to be by the sea for a wander along the Lungomare Alfeo as the sun sets, then find somewhere for an aperitivo and dinner.  

Teal-coloured water laps at the yellow city sea walls of ancient Ortigia in Syracuse.
Wandering around ancient Ortigia is a highlight of 2 weeks in Sicily.

Where to stay in Syracuse

Charming Ortigia is definitely the accommodation drawcard for Syracuse and there are lots of lovely, boutique stays around the island. There are also a couple of parcheggios on the island where you can park the car. Some suggested stays with great reviews on the island include: 

Alternatively, there are plenty of accommodation options in the area of Syracuse between Ortigia and Neapolis Archaeological Park. This is a handy part of town to stay as it’s about a 30 minute walk between the two spots.

There are also many lovely farm stays (agriturismo) around Syracuse if you’d prefer to stay out of town and drive in.

For our part, we chose to base ourselves around half an hour away in the coastal town of Avola, at a gorgeous bed and breakfast which is sadly not taking bookings at present. To be frank though, while Avola is a lovely place to visit, with hindsight we would have preferred to be based in Syracuse for this leg of our road trip and as such, that’s what we’ve recommended here. 

Day 8 – Syracuse

Highlights: Neapolis Archaeological Park | Ortigia’s Citta Vecchia
Total driving distance: No driving today (unless you visit the Necropolis of Pantalica, an 80km (50 mile) round-trip)  
Overnight: Syracuse

Morning at Neapolis Archaeological Park  

Of all the things to do in Syracuse, a couple of hours at this amazing open-air museum is a must. If it’s hot, we recommend a morning visit as there’s little shade. We visited in the afternoon and spent the whole time feeling like we were on the verge of spontaneous combustion.  

In Neapolis Archaeological Park, you’ll find some of the most important ruins of Syracuse’s Greco-Roman past, including a 2nd century Roman amphitheatre and a 5th century BC Greek theatre, Sicily’s biggest. Opera performances are held in the theatre between May and June each year. Check out the Instituto Nazionale del Dramma Antico website for what’s on if you’re in town at the right time.  

Our favourite site in the park was the Paradise Quarry (Latomie del Paradiso), with its epic ‘Ear of Dionysius’. You’ll immediately see why the artist Caravaggio gave this uniquely-shaped and acoustically-notable quarry cave its nickname. Also worth seeking out is the monumental Altar of Hieron, thought to have been dedicated to Zeus and used for the mass sacrifice of bulls. The park is open daily from 9am to 5.30pm. 

A 10-minute walk from the archaeological park is the Basilica and Catacombs of St John. If you missed the catacombs in Palermo, or if you just find catacombs eerily fascinating like we do, then consider joining one of the guided tours that depart from the ticket office throughout the day.

Looking out through the high, narrow entrance of the Ear of Dionysius cave as a man walks in.
The ancient Ear of Dionysius cave at Neapolis Archaeological Park in Syracuse. 

Afternoon and evening back in Ortigia   

Head back to Ortigia this afternoon to explore more of the island and its highlights. 

If you haven’t been to the cathedral, now’s the time. Also in the Piazza Duomo, you’ll find the Baroque-style Santa Lucia Alla Badia and the lavish, Rococo-style Palazzo Borgia del Casale.  

At the Piazza Archimede, there’s the Fountain of Diana. If you’re feeling peckish, swing by nearby Pasticceria Artale to sample some of their traditional sweet or savoury goodies. 

You could also explore Ortigia’s Jewish Quarter, the Giudeca, and the nearby Forte Vigliena for views. On the very tip of the island hulks the 13th century Castello Maniace, which can also be visited. 

As the sun drops, make your way back to the island’s west for aperitivo hour or head out along the jetty near the Fountain of Arethusa to watch the sun set before finding dinner.

Water splashes up on the Fountain of Diana in Ortigia on Day 8 of our itinerary in Sicily.
The Fountain of Diana is a central landmark on the island of Ortigia in Syracuse.

Afternoon alternative: Necropolis of Pantalica 

If you’re keen to stretch your legs and get outdoors, an alternative to more time in Ortigia this afternoon is a hike to the ancient Necropolis of Pantalica, with its 5,000 rock-cut tombs. Together with Syracuse, this is a World Heritage site. 

We haven’t been here but we understand Pantalica can be reached by heading to the village of Ferla, around an hour from Syracuse. From Ferla, you drive a further 5km (3 miles) along the SR11 until you come to the Pantalica Information Office, where you can find out more about the site and get a map of the area.  

Guided tours to Pantalica departing from Ferla can also be arranged for groups of up to four people.

Day 9 – Day trip to Ragusa & Noto 

Highlights: Medieval and Baroque Ragusa Ibla | Baroque Noto
Total driving distance: appx. 185km (115 miles)  
Total driving time: appx. 3 hours
Overnight: Syracuse

The Val di Noto is a region in the south-east of Sicily encompassing eight cities collectively designated as World Heritage for their striking late Baroque architecture. The cities are Catania, Millitello Val di Catania, Caltagirone, Modica, Palazzolo Acreide, Scicli, Ragusa and Noto.

Today we’re visiting the last two of these beauties on a day trip from Syracuse. Tomorrow we visit Catania.

Morning in Ragusa    

Aim to start early today as there’s a lot of ground to cover. We opted to make today’s drive an anti-clockwise loop out of Syracuse rather than backtracking along the E45. So we travelled to Ragusa via the SP14 and SS194. At 1.5 hours, it takes 20 minutes longer than if you go via the E45 but you’ll be travelling in one direction with new scenery all day. 

Pretty Ragusa rises and falls in two defined areas separated by a ravine. There’s the lower ‘old town’ of Ragusa Ibla and the upper ‘new town’ of Ragusa Superiore.  

The city you see is the direct result of a catastrophic earthquake that devastated east Sicily in 1693. Many who survived the destruction moved out of the ruined town and built new homes in the higher area that is now Ragusa Superiore, while others stayed and rebuilt in the old town. Today Ragusa is a World Heritage blend of medieval and Baroque architecture.  

We managed to find free parking in a small carpark at the bottom end of Via Giusti, not far from Ragusa Ibla. There’s also a paid parking area nearby at Parcheggio Repubblica. We then spent most of the morning wandering the charming streets of Ibla between the Cathedral of San Giorgio and the Iblei Gardens.  

In the upper town, you’ll find another beautiful cathedral, Cattedrale di San Giovanni Battista on Piazza San Giovanni. If you’re keen to know more about the history of Ragusa, a local museum, the Museo Archaeologico Ibleo di Ragusa, is a 5 minute walk from the cathedral.  

Aim to spend 3 to 4 hours in Ragusa. The town is also renowned for its food scene, so this is a great spot for a sit-down lunch before continuing on (and before the siesta shut down kicks in). If you prefer a quick bite, head to a bakery for Scaccia Ragusana, a delicious calzone-like stuffed flat bread. 

The old houses of Ragusa rise in tiers and shades of yellow.
Ragusa Superiore is separated from Ragusa Ibla by a ravine called the Valle dei Ponti.  

Many a visitor to Ragusa will make the pilgrimage up the 300-odd steps to the church at the top, Chiesa Delle Scale, for the pano views to be found up there. We ran out of time sadly, but there’s another, easier-to-reach rooftop view from the cathedral’s campanile.

Afternoon in Noto    

After lunch, make for the city of Noto. It’s around an hour’s drive east from Ragusa. 

Noto was also levelled by Sicily’s notorious earthquake of the late 17th century. A new town was raised over the destruction, styled in Sicilian Baroque, and this exceptional architectural time capsule is what you see today.  

Take the time to simply wander Noto’s streets and admire the city’s elaborate yet elegant architecture, starting at the city gateway, the Porta Reale and heading west along the Corso Vittorio Emanuele.   

Must-sees include the cathedral, Basilicia Cattedrale di San Nicolo, the Palazzo Ducezio opposite and the bell tower, Il Campanile di San Carlo (both of which offer superb views over the city), as well as the richly decorated theatre, Teatro Tina di Lorenzo

There are also a number of beautiful palazzos and churches to visit. We particularly liked Palazzo Nicolaci di Villadorata, Chiesa di San Domenica and Chiesa di San Carlo (which also serves up views from its upper levels).   

If you need a break, pull up a seat outside at Caffe Sicilia on Corso Vittorio Emanuele and order their famous granita cappuccino ghiacciato – granita is a must-try shaved ice Sicilian specialty that comes in a variety of flavours. This was exactly the afternoon pick-me-up we needed.

Also, if it’s a sunny day, it’s worth staying longer here to take in sunset. Noto’s buildings are clad with Noto Stone, a creamy mellow limestone that turns a rich honey colour under the last golden rays of the day.  

For dinner tonight, stay in Noto or make your way back to Syracuse. The drive is around 40 minutes. 

Noto’s Cathedral, highlight of a Sicily road trip, gleams under a blue sky with a cream-coloured stone.
Beautiful, buttercream-coloured Noto Cathedral is one of the Baroque highlights of our Sicily itinerary.  

Day 10 – Day trip to Catania

Highlights: Catania’s Baroque Centro Storico
Total driving distance: It’s not recommended to drive into Catania but if you do, the journey is appx. 140km return (87 miles) 
Total driving time: appx. 1 hour 40
Overnight: Syracuse

Catania is Sicily’s buzzing second city, and the largest town in east Sicily. Having risen and fallen over and again in the shadow of mercurial Etna, Catania has come of age with a bit of a gritty edge. This, and a lack of time in our original itinerary in Sicily, led to us not visiting and with hindsight, we really wish we had. As such, we’ve included the city in this itinerary as a day trip from Syracuse.  

By all accounts, driving in Catania can be a stressful experience, with traffic, ZTLs, one-way streets and parking challenges. So why not leave the car today and take a train instead from Syracuse to Catania Centrale? The journey takes around 1hr15. 

With one day to play with, we would do what we usually do in a new city and seek out a walking tour like this one to introduce us to the city highlights and give us a historical and cultural introduction to the place.  

Catania’s old town – the Centro Storico – is another of the Val di Noto’s Baroque showpieces, but with a very local touch: these elaborate buildings were made with Etna’s own black lava stone.  

The city’s highlights are all located fairly close together and include the Piazza del Duomo with its Cathedral of Sant’Agata and lava stone Elephant Fountain. There’s also the Church of San Benedetto, Palazzo Biscari, the Teatro Romano and the smaller Roman Odeon next door, the triumphal Porta Garibaldi, Basilica della Collegiata and the Teatro Massimo Bellini.  

If you arrive early enough in the day, there’s the historic fish market to visit and, not far from there, Castello Ursino. For Ancient Rome diehards like us: if you wander up to Piazza Stesicoro, you can see a small section of Catania’s once-enormous amphitheatre. 

For lunch today, we’d be seeking out Catania’s own pasta specialty of eggplant and ricotta: Pasta alla Norma. Or considering a street food walking tour like this one if there’s time. Or both. We’re in Sicily, after all. 

Catania Cathedral looms large and Baroque in grey lava-coloured stone.
Catania’s Cathedral is a classic example of how the city has worked Etna’s black lava stone into its Baroque architecture.

Alternative to Catania Sightseeing 

If a day of Catania sightseeing doesn’t appeal, there are loads of other things to do in and around Syracuse. Some of things we’ve got on our list for next time:
  
> Get to know the local vino on a winery tour (Nero D’Avola – yum!). 
> Learn the art of Sicilian cooking with a cooking class. 
> Get out on the water for a boat tour around Ortigia. 
> Stretch your legs on the hike to the Necropolis of Pantalica. 

Or simply enjoy some beach time at one of Syracuse’s sandy beaches, like San Lorenzo Beach or Fontane Bianche Beach.

Day 11 – Syracuse to Taormina

Highlights: Ortigia Market | Taormina Sightseeing
Total driving distance: appx. 120km (75 miles) 
Total driving time: appx. 1.5 hours
Overnight: Taormina

Today we depart Syracuse and head north to the coastal town of Taormina. This will be your base for the next two nights. You’ll spend most of a day and an evening exploring this historic hilltop town, and the next day on the otherworldly slopes of Mount Etna.  

Early morning at Mercato di Ortigia    

Before checking out of your Syracuse accommodation this morning, take the opportunity (if you haven’t already) to visit the Mercato di Ortigia, the city’s famed street market.  

Just as it has been for hundreds of years, this vibrant market is open early six days a week (it’s closed Sundays), selling beautiful, fresh regional food. It runs until 2pm but is at its most bustling in the morning (and there are fewer tour groups). This is a great place to pick up some cured meats and cheeses, or some fresh sandwiches, for the day ahead. 

Rest of day and evening in Taormina     

The drive from Syracuse to Taormina is around 1.5 hours via the A18 and E45. There are tolls on this route.   

Taormina rises and falls over the slopes of Mount Tauro, overlooking a spectacular vista of azure sea and the hazy blue rise of Mount Etna.  

People have lived on this mountain for 2,500 years, but Taormina emerged on the historical stage around the 4th century BC as a Greek colony. It went on to become the Byzantine capital of Sicily before a run of invaders came along and left their mark. 

Taormina is considered by many to be Sicily’s most elegant city. It’s also considered to be one of Sicily’s most touristy and expensive towns, especially during the summer months.  

Don’t let that put you off though. It is a really charming place. And for us, taking in the incredible backdrop of Etna and the coast from the steps of the ancient Greek theatre made Taormina worthy of a visit all on its own!  

Once you’ve parked up, found your accommodation and dropped your bags, spend the rest of the day checking out the various things to do in Taormina. Start with a wander along Corso Umberto, the main thoroughfare through the town linking the historic gates of Porto Catania and Porto Messina.  

In addition to the drawcard 3rd century Greek theatre, highlights here include the chequerboard Piazza IX Aprile and Church of San Giuseppe, along with Taormina Cathedral, the medieval Palazzo Corvaja, and the gardens of the Villa Communale di Taormina. Also search out the beautifully decorated façades, doors and wrought iron balconies along Via Giardinazzo.  

If you fancy stretching your legs later in the day and seeking out some epic views, consider making the hour-long round-trip walk up the trail to the church at the top, Chiesa Madonna della Rocca

The beauty of staying at least one night in Taormina is the opportunity to experience the town after the crowds of day-trippers and tour groups have left. Now’s the time to really appreciate the charm of this historic city with a drink and dinner as twilight paints the sky pastel. 

Behind the tiered stone steps of Taormina’s Greek Theatre and semi-circular stage, Mount Etna rises in the distance in dramatic hazy blue. 
The view from Taormina’s Greek Theatre to Mount Etna: possibly the greatest natural theatre backdrop in history.   

Where to stay in Taormina

Taormina is the most expensive place for accommodation in our Sicily itinerary. Parking is also pricey but if you don’t mind forking out for a spot in one of the city’s carparks (there are four public paid parking areas, including the large Porta Catania which is the closest to Taormina’s main street), then you have plenty of upper mid-range to luxury options in and around the historic centre. 

For budget and lower mid-range accommodation, you’re better off looking outside of the historic centre, although there are a couple of hostels. You might also consider the areas below Mount Tauro, like Mazzarò, which has a cable car up to Taormina, and Giardini-Naxos, which has a bus running up to Taormina from Taormina-Giardini train station. There’s a cheaper carpark next to the train station as well. 

We stayed just near Taormina-Giardini station at the lovely B&B Sottocoperta and found this is an easy and hassle-free way to visit the city. We were also able to park on the street near the hotel for free. 

Some other suggested options are: 

Day 12 – Day trip to Mount Etna

Highlights: Mount Etna Tour
Total driving distance: The return drive to Mount Etna is appx. 110km (70 miles)
Total driving time: appx. 3 hours
Overnight: Taormina

Mount Etna lords over the landscape of Sicily’s northeast. She’s the tallest and most active volcano in Europe and she’s been grumbling her discontent for tens of thousands of years. Recorded eruptions reach back as far as the 4th century BC. 

It goes without saying that Etna has had a monumental impact on the landscape, history and people of Sicily. For her efforts, the mountain has been designated a World Heritage site, and a two week Sicily road trip isn’t a fait accompli without engaging in some way with this history-shaping force of nature.  

There are plenty of companies running guided half-day and full-day tours of Mount Etna from Taormina, Catania and Syracuse, including bike tours and 5 to 6 hour hiking tours. In winter, you can also ski on the north and south sides of the mountain.  

It’s also entirely possible, and easy, to drive to Rifugio Sapienza – the launch pad for activities on the mountain – and join a tour from there. This is what we did, as we wanted the flexibility of driving ourselves so we could stop along the way and take in the staggering and surreal scenery.  

At Rifugio Sapienza, we purchased tickets for a cable car and 4×4 trip on the mountain. This involves a cable car ride up to 2,500 metres, where you board special off-road 4×4 trucks for a drive to 2,920 metres. Once there, a volcano guide takes the group on a guided walk through Etna’s cratered, otherworldly landscape. 

We organised the cable car and 4×4 on arrival but you can book a priority ticket here and skip the queue when you get there.  

On the recommendation of a local, we visited Etna in the morning as clouds tend to gather over the day. We had beautiful blue skies during our visit and it was quite warm on the drive up. Don’t be fooled though, even during the height of summer, it can get very cold up on Etna. Wear layers, bring a warm jacket, a hat, sunnies and wear closed walking or hiking shoes.  

People walk along a ridge of black sand with patches of dirty snow behind them on Mount Etna.
One of the top experiences of our Sicily road trip: A morning exploring the moonscape of craters, black sand and ice on Mount Etna.

Afternoon winery visit     

Etna has demonstrated her destructive side throughout history, but the mountain’s lava flows have also resulted in rich soil that has given rise to some excellent vino. While you can certainly sample the delicious flavours of the region in the restaurants of Taormina and Catania, if you love wine then it’s definitely worth dropping by a vineyard for a tasting.  

A vineyard visit and tasting in this area requires advance reservation, so book ahead if this is something you’re keen to do. There are MANY places to choose from but one vineyard you might consider, in the direction of Taormina, is Gambino Vini. It’s around an hour from Refugio Sapienza and 45 minutes from Taormina. Gambini reopens from 15 March 2024.

Day 13 – Cefalù

Highlights: La Rocca Hike | Cefalù’s Old Town
Total driving distance: appx. 215km (135 miles) 
Total driving time: appx. 2.5 hours
Overnight: Cefalù  

Today is our last full day in Sicily before we complete our loop of the island and fly out of Palermo tomorrow. We suggest breaking up the long journey back to Palermo with a final stop today in the coastal city of Cefalù. It’s around 2.5 hours from Taormina.

You can stay here overnight or, if you have an early flight out tomorrow, continue on afterwards and stay closer to the airport.

A fishing village with a long past, Cefalù’s terracotta rooftops fan out around the base of La Rocca, the hulking 268 metre-high limestone outcrop that dominates the city skyline. 

One option for the penultimate day of our 14 day Sicily itinerary is to give it over to a sun lounge at one of Cefalù’s beach clubs. Just be aware that it can get very busy on the beaches between May and September and you’ll need to get in early if you want a spot.  

Another option is to make the trek up La Rocca to take in its views and sites, which include the 5th century BC Temple of Diana, the 10th century Church of Santa Anna and, at the summit, the ruins of a Norman castle, Castello di Cefalù.  

It’s a 3.5km round trip to the top, there are strict opening hours (the trail closes either 4pm or 5pm depending on the time of year you visit), and an entry fee of around €5. It’s recommended you don’t hike up during the hottest part of the day as there’s no shade.  

Later, enjoy a wander through Cefalù’s medieval old town, keeping an eye out for the historic Porta Pescara and the old harbour, the curious Lavatoio Medievale (a medieval laundry) and the Museo Mandralisica (housing the private art collection of 19th century Baron Mandralisca and the famed ‘Portrait of an Unknown Man’ from 1465).  

You’ll also find another World Heritage treasure in the 12th-13th century Norman-built Cefalù Cathedral

Tonight, enjoy one more sunset aperitivo and a classic Sicilian supper in one of Cefalù’s seaside restaurants.

Where to stay in Cefalù

Cefalu’s Centro Storico is where it’s all happening but, like Taormina, this resort town’s popularity means it’s on the pricier side to stay centrally. If you don’t mind being a bit further out, then you’ll find a better deal. Here are some suggested stays with fab reviews: 

View over the terracotta rooftops and azure waters of Cefalù from La Rocca.
Head up La Rocca for fantastic views over Cefalù. 

Day 14 – Depart Palermo

Total driving distance: appx. 100km (62 miles) 
Total driving time: appx. 1.5 hours

Last day of our epic Sicily road trip!

Leave yourself plenty of time to navigate your way from Cefalù to Palermo Airport and drop off your hire car before checking in.

If you’re flying out later today, this might be an opportunity to sleep in, laze on the beach or enjoy a final wander and a last Sicilian feast in Cefalù. 

And start planning your return to Sicily! 


If you have any questions, thoughts or updates to share in relation to this Sicily road trip, let us know in the comments below! 

For more Italian road trips and adventures, head to our Italy section.

If you’re looking for more great road tripping itineraries and adventures, check out our Road Trips page, and our bucket list of 100 ultimate road trips around the world.

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