Big scenery, epic history, rich culture, amazing food and wine: Sicily is road tripping at its very best. Our 14-day circular Sicily itinerary covers the island’s major highlights, with a detailed day-by-day route, map, suggested stays, and lots of practical planning advice to help you adapt the trip to suit your time and interests.
Tucked off the tip of Italy’s boot, the island of Sicily has been luring people to her shores at the crossroads of the Mediterranean Sea for millennia.
Throughout the ages, waves of people – Phoenicians, Greeks, Carthaginians, Romans, Byzantines, Arabs, Normans and more – have all added their cultural spice to Sicily’s great mortar pot, creating the rich and vibrant society that exists today. They’ve also left an extraordinary legacy of living traditions, amazing historic sites, and delicious flavours.
Add to the mix golden sandy beaches and offshore isles lapped by azure seas, rustic villages where life goes on much as it has forever, beautiful Baroque cities and medieval old towns, monumental ancient temples, sweeping mountains and valleys, and two of the world’s most active volcanoes: it’s little wonder Sicily continues to draw people from around the world today.
For us, Sicily encapsulates everything we love most about road tripping – roads through big, beautiful landscapes, layers of visible history, a vivid cultural scene and, best of all, pasta and vino! We came not knowing quite what to expect. We left knowing we have to come back.
Our own Sicily road trip was just shy of two weeks and we loved it. With hindsight though, there are things we would do differently if we did the trip again. This is the result: a curated two-week itinerary shaped by our own experience of driving around Sicily, bringing together the places and experiences we would prioritise on a self-guided road trip of the island.
Spectacular scenery awaits on a Sicily road trip, like this view from the Greco-Roman theatre at Segesta.
Sicily Road Trip Itinerary – Quick Planner
Start & finish: Palermo (you can also set out from other cities on the loop, such as Catania).
Distance: Around 1,300km (810 miles) if you do everything in this itinerary; more if you do some of the suggested extra activities.
Recommended duration: This is a self-drive 14-day Sicily itinerary; see our suggestions for shorter or longer itineraries in the Planning section.
Best time to visit: The shoulder periods of April–June and late September–October.
Trip highlights: Historic Palermo | Medieval Erice | Ancient ruins of Segesta and Selinunte | Valley of the Temples | Villa Romana del Casale | Ancient Ortigia | Baroque cities of Noto & Ragusa | Mount Etna | Taormina panoramas.
Overnight stops: 3 nights in Palermo | 2 nights in Trapani | 1 night in Agrigento | 4 nights in Syracuse/Ortigia | 2 nights in Taormina | 1 night in Cefalù.
Best for: Independent travellers planning a full-island road trip that covers the best of Sicily’s historic cities, archaeological sites, coastal scenery and volcanic landscapes.
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Our 14-Day Sicily Road Trip Itinerary
What’s the route?
If you road trip Sicily with this itinerary, you’ll start with a couple of days in Palermo. From there, you’ll travel in an anti-clockwise loop around the island, finishing back in Palermo (for alternative start and finish points, take a look at ‘Getting to Sicily’ in our Planning section).
En route, you’ll visit what we feel are the must-sees of Sicily’s natural, cultural and historic highlights: a mezze of charming villages like medieval Erice, time capsule towns like Ortigia, ancient places such as Segesta and the Valley of the Temples, six of the island’s seven World Heritage sites, and spectacular mountain and coastal scenery, including Mount Etna, one of the world’s most active volcanoes.
2-week Sicily itinerary at a glance
Below is an overview of our 14-day itinerary. You’ll find detailed route planning, including distances, driving times, highlights, suggested itinerary alternatives, and accommodation options in the day-by-day section further on.
Day
Route and main focus
Overnight
Days 1–3
Palermo – World Heritage sightseeing inc. Royal Palace, Palatine Chapel and Monreale Cathedral, Byzantine treasures, Arab-Norman and Baroque architecture, markets and catacombs
Palermo
Days 4–5
Palermo > Trapani – Ancient Segesta, medieval Erice, seaside Trapani, ancient salt pans or Marsala winery visit, or Egadi Islands day trip
Trapani
Day 6
Trapani > Agrigento – Ancient Selinunte, Valley of the Temples World Heritage site
Agrigento
Days 7–8
Agrigento > Syracuse/Ortigia – Villa Romana del Casale, historic Ortigia, catacombs, ancient Neapolis inc. the theatre of Syracuse and Ear of Dionysus
Syracuse/ Ortigia
Days 9–10
Val di Noto – World Heritage Baroque cities of Ragusa, Noto and Catania
Syracuse/ Ortigia
Days 11–12
Syracuse/Ortigia > Taormina – Ortigia market, Taormina sightseeing, Mount Etna day trip, Etna winery visit
Taormina
Day 13
Taormina > Cefalù – World Heritage Cefalù Cathedral, La Rocca hike, beach time
Cefalù
Day 14
Cefalú > Palermo – Depart Sicily
Our Sicily road trip map
We’ve mapped our complete 14-day Sicily road trip to show how the circular route comes together.
You can use it alongside the day-by-day itinerary to see the order of stops, rough driving distances, and towns where we stayed along the way. It’s also a useful planning tool for deciding where to spend longer, where to add side trips, or where adapt the route around your own interests and available time.
Click on the image to explore an interactive Google map of our self-drive 14-day Sicily itinerary.
A few things to know before you go
We regularly check the prices, opening hours and access arrangements that we mention in this guide, but things do change so we always recommend checking latest information before you go.
It’s also worth knowing that Sicily – like much of the Mediterranean – keeps its own hours. Some local businesses and attractions may close in the early afternoon for riposo (siesta), and restaurants often shut between lunch and dinner. If you’re travelling in the quieter months, you may find reduced opening hours, fewer tours, and some seasonal closures.
A little planning goes a long way, especially if there’s somewhere you’d be disappointed to miss. Head to our Planning a Sicily Road Trip section for more tips and advice.
One more thing, if the thought of driving in Sicily gives you heart palpitations (believe me, we get it!), Tripiamo’s Driving in Italy guide can help you prepare before you arrive, with videos, tutorials and a take-with-you PDF. Find out more.
Driving up the through the surreal lava landscape of Mount Etna is a highlight of our Sicily itinerary.
Highlights:Evening in Palermo’s Centro Storico (Historic Centre) Total driving distance: As you’ll be sightseeing in Palermo over the next couple of days, save on car hire fees and collect your hire car from the airport on the morning of Day 4. Total driving time: No driving today Overnight:Palermo
Palermo is the largest city in Sicily and the island’s capital. A port city since ancient times, Palermo’s architecture, culture and cuisine have evolved with a distinct imprint of the diverse civilisations that have conquered and ruled here. You’ll notice Arab and Norman influences, along with Byzantine, Lombard, French and others.
Palermo is also home to the Arab-Norman Palermo World Heritage area, which includes seven sites across the city, plus the cathedrals at Cefalù and Monreale. You’ll have a chance to visit Palermo’s main sites over the coming days.
Travelling from the airport to Palermo
You can get from Palermo Airport to the city by bus, train and taxi.
Bus – The shuttle bus is a comfortable, low-cost option. The bus company is called Prestia e Comandé and the journey from the airport to Palermo Central Station takes around 45 minutes to an hour. Book the Palermo bus ticket.
Train – The train from Palermo Aeroporto station to Palermo Centrale station is also a low-cost option and takes between 35 minutes and an hour depending on the service. Search timetables and buy train tickets.
Taxi – There’s a taxi rank and a reasonably-priced shared taxi service outside the airport arrivals hall. It’s worth noting that taxis generally don’t get a great rap in Palermo, with travellers often complaining of being overcharged or scammed. Uber Black is available but apparently expensive.
Benvenuti in Sicilia!
Welcome to Sicily! Today is about arriving, settling into your accommodation, and getting ready to explore Palermo and road trip Sicily.
Tonight, head to one of Palermo’s ambient squares, such as Piazza Olivella or Piazza Sant’Anna, for a wine or aperitivo, and plates of local Palermo specialities like arancini (rice balls) and pasta con le sarde (pasta with sardines).
Like many an Italian town, Palermo has its own particular array of street eats, and a great way to kick off your Sicily travel itinerary – if you arrive in time today – is to join a food tour.
This Sunset Street Food Walking Tour is high on our list for a future visit – you’ll taste various culinary treats as you explore some of the city’s historic highlights. The tour gets great reviews and, critically, you’ll get lots to eat!
First night of your Sicily itinerary, head out for an evening in Palermo.
Where to stay in Palermo
As the next couple of days are all about Palermo’s highlights (and you don’t have to worry about parking just yet), we suggest staying in or near Palermo’s historic centre, the Centro Storico. There are several districts in this area, including Castellamare, La Kalsa, Il Capo and Albergheria/Ballarò. The major attractions are around here, along with plenty of bars and restaurants.
Palermo is a big city with all the diversity of accommodation options that brings. The following suggested options are all in and around the Centro Storico and get great reviews:
Good value:Bed and Breakfast D’Angelo – Centrally located B&B with a stand-out host and spotless rooms in a traditional building (some with private bathrooms outside the room); also close to the train and bus stations.
Mid-range: Ballarooms B&B Palermo Centro –Sparkling clean B&B with a warm and engaging host and generous homemade breakfasts; walking distance to the key sites.
Spend a bit more:Palazzo del Poeta – Beautifully restored boutique retreat in the historic centre just steps from the city highlights; comfortable, refined rooms, plus quality breakfasts and attentive service.
Day 2: Palermo
Highlights:Palermo’s Centro Storico Total driving distance: No driving today – collect your hire car on the morning of Day 4. Total driving time: No driving today Overnight:Palermo
Today is a packed day of sightseeing in Palermo.
Make a point to visit the Palazzo dei Normanni (also known as the Royal Palace) and its exquisitely beautiful Palatine Chapel. You can buy tickets at the door but consider pre-booking online if you’re travelling in peak.
Other must-sees are Palermo Cathedral (head to the roof for great views), the Byzantine mosaic masterpieces at La Martorana (the Church of Santa Maria dell’Ammiraglio), and the Arab-Norman church, Chiesa di San Cataldo right next door.
Also nearby is the 16th-century Fontana Pretoria, better known as the ‘Fountain of Shame’ on account of its marble nudes: the monastic neighbours of the day were apparently unamused.
We love to get oriented in new places by joining a guided walking tour. Experiences like this highly-rated, 3-hour Markets and Monuments City Walking Tour, will introduce you to some of Palermo’s top spots, give you an overview of the city’s rich history, and help you narrow down where you’d like to spend more time.
There’s also a wide range of themed tours you can join in Palermo, covering everything from the city highlights and World Heritage sites to Palermo’s anti-mafia movement. Below are some highly-rated options we’ve got on the list for our next visit:
Keep an eye out (and an eye covered) for the once-scandalous fountain, Fontana Pretoria, while visiting Palermo.
Day 3: Palermo and Monreale
Highlights:Markets | Teatro Massimo | Capuchin Catacombs | Monreale Cathedral Total driving distance: No driving today – collect your hire car from Palermo Airport tomorrow morning. Total driving time: No driving today Overnight:Palermo
Morning in Palermo
Start today by immersing in the bustle of one of Palermo’s outdoor markets. These are a legacy from the city’s 9th-century period under Arab rule, when it was the capital of the Emirate of Sicily.
There’s a market in each of the city’s four historic quarters. The most popular for tourists is Mercato di Ballarò. The markets are open daily except Sunday and they’re most buzzy in the mornings. As with markets and busy spaces anywhere, keep your valuables close.
After the markets, maybe join a tour of the ornate Teatro Massimo, the third largest theatre in Europe. There’s also the morbidly fascinating Capuchin Catacombs, where thousands of mummified bodies line the walls.
Afternoon at Monreale Cathedral
If you’re a World Heritage seeker like us, consider an afternoon trip to the UNESCO-listed Cattedrale di Monreale.
Building started on this exquisite Norman-Byzantine house of worship more than 850 years ago. Inside, you’ll find a cavernous expanse of glittering gold mosaics. Also seek out the medieval bronze doors and silver high altar, the Baroque Roano Chapel, the royal tombs, and the rooftop terraces overlooking the abbey complex and surrounding countryside.
To get to Monreale, take bus 389 from Piazza Indipendenza in Palermo (behind the Palazzo dei Normanni), and time your arrival for when the Cathedral reopens after lunch at 2pm (Sundays it’s only open in the afternoon).
Entry to the cathedral is free, but there’s a fee to enter the terraces, cloister and museum. Before you go, check the official website as opening times can change.
Monreale Cathedral can also be reached as an add-on to the popular Palermo Hop On Hop Off bus tour, which, in addition to all the major city sights, also takes in some of the villa-and-garden highlights you might not otherwise get to.
Kick off your 2 weeks in Sicily with a tour of the capital’s highlights like beautiful Palermo Cathedral.
When we road tripped Sicily, we stayed more than an hour away from Palermo in the village of Scopello and used this as a base. Our stay, Hotel La Tavernetta, was a real treat for us – it’s a lovely place with gorgeous coastal views, a pool overlooking the sea, and an on-site restaurant.
With hindsight, we feel it would be more convenient to stay in or close to Palermo, at least for the first couple of days of this Sicily travel itinerary.
However, Scopello is the gateway to the Riserva Naturale dello Zingaro (Zingaro Nature Reserve), famed for its secluded beaches, rugged mountain scenery, walking and birding opportunities. Lo Zingaro stretches away to the north and the town of San Vito Lo Capo, where you’ll find Spiaggia San Vito Lo Capo, said to be one of Sicily’s most beautiful beaches.
Despite staying nearby, we sadly didn’t have time to explore this area when we visited and we haven’t included it in this itinerary. But if you have more than 2 weeks in Sicily, this is definitely an area worth devoting a couple of days to.
Or, if nature calls to you more loudly than towns, you could swap out the coming days in Trapani for time here in the island’s north-west corner instead.
Day 4: Trapani via Segesta and Erice
Highlights:Segesta Archaeological Park | Erice‘s medieval streets and views | Evening in Trapani Total driving distance: appx. 115km (71 miles) Total driving time: appx. 2 hours Overnight:Trapani
Pick up your hire car from Palermo Airport
Our Sicily road trip starts in earnest today and we recommend an early start. Make your way back to Palermo Airport and head to the arrivals hall where the car rental companies are located.
Once you have your hire car, set a course for Segesta Archaeological Park. It’s a drive of around 35 to 40 minutes from the airport.
Travel tip: Sicily car hire can become more expensive and limited closer to your travel dates, so it’s worth booking early. We use DiscoverCars to compare providers, prices and vehicle options. Compare Sicily car rental options.
Morning at Segesta Archaeological Park
The extraordinary Doric Temple of Segesta is one of the best-preserved temples of its kind in the world, so we were surprised to learn it’s not a World Heritage site. That fact, however, along with the temple’s location in a remote mountainous setting, may explain why we found Segesta Archaeological Park to be (a little) less busy than some of Sicily’s other ancient sites.
In BC times, this was the territory of the island’s Elymian tribe and the site of their chief city. Building work on the large temple atop the hill started around the late 5th century BC. Today, the temple’s Doric columns and pediments rise imposingly above the surrounding landscape, every bit as impressive as we imagine it was in its day, despite having never been completed.
The other highlight here, also a must-see, is the stunningly-situated Greco-Roman Theatre, which dates back two millennia. It’s tucked into the summit of Mount Barbaro, overlooking the Gulf of Castellamare.
Tickets, parking and access
There’s a free car park next to the main entrance to the archaeological park. Once you’re ticket is checked, you can stroll up the hill to the Doric temple in around 10 to 15 minutes.
To get to the ancient theatre, head back down to the ticket office and either hike the steep path up to the theatre or jump on the shuttle up the hill as we did. Remember a hat, sunscreen and water as it can get very hot at Segesta and there’s zero shade.
At last check, it was €16.50 for a combined entry ticket to the park with return shuttle. Tickets are available online and at the site. The park opens at 9am daily (closing times are seasonal), and shuttle buses run every half-hour or so. There’s also an audio guide available for €5. Check hours and prices before you visit.
The great Doric Temple of Segesta makes for an impressive stop on Day 4 of our Sicily road trip.
Afternoon in Erice
Back in the car, set the GPS for Erice, a drive of around 45 minutes. Charming Erice is a medieval hill town overlooking the coastal city of Trapani. The switchback drive up the 750-metre-high mountain is an experience in itself!
At the top, there’s paid street parking (blue lines) and some paid parking areas on Viale Conte Pepoli, leading to the Porta Trapani, formerly a guarded entry point for the once-walled city. There’s also a free parking area on the SP3, around 10-minutes’ walk downhill from the gate.
Travel tip: If you’re not keen on tackling the switchbacks by car, another option is to drive straight to Trapani and take the cable car up to Erice. We haven’t done this yet but it is, by all accounts, a spectacular way to get up the mountain.
The ride is around 10 minutes and at the time of writing, the price was €15 return. There’s paid parking next to the lower cable car station in Trapani. Hours of operation are seasonal and can be impacted by weather, so do check ahead.
The charming old hill town of Erice is made for wandering.
What to see in Erice
Erice is a compact town of cobblestone streets and pretty plazas made for meandering. Its long history is still evident in the remains of fortifications and architecture from the Elymian and Phoenician periods through to Norman and more recent times.
On your wanders, check out the 12th-century Castello di Venere (Castle of Venus). Even if you can’t go inside on the day, the sight of the fortress itself and its commanding views make it a highlight. Tucked into the mountain below the castle is the 19th-century mini fort, Torretta Pepoli, while the nearby Giardino del Balio (Garden of Balio) is a peaceful place to pause.
Erice also has dozens of churches. If you visit only one, we recommend the 14th-century Real Duomo di Erice (Erice Cathedral), closely followed by Chiesa di San Martino and Chiesa di San Pietro.
Don’t leave Erice without sampling some of its tasty almond pastries. You’ll find pasticcerie (pastry shops) throughout the town, but most people make a beeline for Pasticceria Maria Grammatico, an institution since 1950.
Lastly, views. Half the fun of wandering Erice is stumbling upon its many epic viewpoints. These are magic at any time of day, but if you can, time your visit so that you’re there late afternoon as the sun drops and bathes the whole coast in a golden glow.
Entry fees and opening hours
There are entry fees for most of Erice’s main sites, including the castle and the cathedral. If you’re interested in visiting several of the town’s churches, towers and museums, the €16 Erice Card can save you money. While it can be bought online, we suggest keeping your options open and buying it on the day at the small information hut in the car park just outside Porta Trapani.
There’s also a Church Pass for around €6 at last check, which may be better value if you’d rather just visit the cathedral and some of the best paid-entry churches. You can buy it at the cathedral bell tower, Torre di Re Federico (which can also be climbed for views).
When you road trip Sicily, you can expect epic views and – in the case of Erice – epic switchback driving too.
Travel tip: Keep an eye on the weather. Crowning a mountaintop as it does, Erice is prone to an occasional foggy embrace. Locals charmingly call it ‘kisses of Venus’, but those kisses can be a literal scene stealer. Once the cloud moves in, the views disappear.
The fog may pass quickly but it can also hang around. If your trip to Erice looks to be under threat of weather or settled cloud, consider swapping your visit to tomorrow morning.
Evening in Trapani
You can stay overnight in Erice, but it can get pretty quiet in the evenings, particularly out of peak season. For this reason, you might want to consider heading back down the mountain and spending the night in Trapani, where there are more accommodation options. Trapani is around 25 to 30 minutes’ drive from Erice.
Once you’ve checked into your Trapani accommodation, head out for a wander and dinner. Via Garibaldi and Corso Vittorio Emanuele, which are among the city’s oldest streets, are particularly lovely for an evening meander. If you time it right, you may find yourself among throngs of locals out enjoying the very Italian tradition of passeggiata (a leisurely evening stroll) with their family and friends.
Trapani has been a fishing town for about as long as people have lived here, so you’re guaranteed to find a sensational seafood dinner tonight. Maybe try a steaming bowl of couscous di pesce (fish couscous); it’s the town’s most famous dish.
Better still, you could try a range of Trapani specialties on a guided food tour. The 3-hour Old Town Foodie Tour will take you around the historic centre with a guide, learning about the history and culture, and sampling local flavours along the way, like panelle (chickpea fritters), local pasta specialty Busiate alla Trapanese, couscous, granita and more.
Where to stay in Trapani
Trapani’s historic centre is the more ambient part of the city to stay in, but prices are generally a bit higher and there’s a restricted traffic zone to watch out for (read more about the Zona Traffico Limitato in our Tips for driving in Sicily section).
If you’re staying in this area, parking will likely be paid street parking or in one of the paid car parks around the old town, like Piazza Vittorio Emmanuele – be sure to ask your host where best to park and if you can drop off luggage first. For a stay with on-site parking, look to cast the accommodation net further afield.
Some suggested Trapani accommodations with a central location and great reviews include:
Good value: La Trinacria Rooms – Warm and friendly stay in a central base, with comfy, spotless rooms and exceptional homemade breakfasts; free and paid parking nearby.
Mid-range:Appartamenti Trapani In – Ideally positioned apartments that are pristine and spacious, with a lovely rooftop terrace and stand-out host; paid parking nearby.
Spend a bit more:Dimora Botteghelle – Spacious, elegant rooms, an excellent restaurant and outstanding hospitality; close to attractions and paid parking nearby.
Day 5: Trapani
Highlights:Trapani’s Centro Storico | Ancient Salt Pans Total driving distance: 16km (10 miles) return if visiting the Salt Museum and surrounds Total driving time: appx. 30 minutes Overnight:Trapani
Morning and early afternoon in Trapani
The coastal town of Trapani is the launchpad to some fantastic west Sicily adventures, like the Isole Egadi (more on them below) and Zingaro Nature Reserve, which we mentioned in Day 1. Unless you have some extra days in your itinerary though, or you’re prepared to shift some activities around, these places may have to wait for your next Sicily trip.
This morning is for exploring Trapani’s old town, the Centro Storico. Start with an early visit to the local fish market, Mercato del Pesce. Then wander out along the spit to the coastal watchtower, Torre di Ligny, for views back towards the town.
Next, enjoy a stroll around the narrow streets of the old town. Along the way, check out the Cattedrale di San Lorenzo, the Baroque Chiesa del Purgatorio (Church of the Holy Souls in Purgatory), and the Palazzo Senatorio.
Also keep an eye out (and up) for the astrological clock on the city’s oldest gate, the Porta Oscura e Torre Dell’Orologio, next to Palazzo Senatorio.
For a more in-depth exploration of the historic centre, this well-rated, 75-minute Hidden Gems Walking Tour will introduce you to the city’s storied past, it’s highlights, and some of the corners you might not otherwise discover on your own.
Sunset at the Trapani Salt Pans or a Marsala winery
Depending on your interests, there are two options we suggest for later today, both taking in sunset over the Trapani coastline.
Explore ancient salt pans
Around 10 minutes south of Trapani is the Museo del Saledi Saline Culcasi (Salt Museum), near the village of Nubia. This small museum with its historic windmill tells the story of the ancient salt pans stretching south from here to Marsala. They date back to Phoenician times.
You can visit the salt pans independently or join one of the museum’s 75-minute guided tours to learn about the long and sometimes spicy history of ’white gold’ production in western Sicily. Ancient traditions are still used in the salt extraction today.
Afterwards, have a wander among the surrounding Culcasi salt pans; it’s a particularly beautiful scene at sunset and twilight. The museum is usually open from around 9am to 1pm, and 3pm to 8pm.
If you don’t feel like driving, this 2.5-hour guided Saline di Trapani Salt Tour gets outstanding reviews – it explores the salt flats between Trapani, Paceco and Nubia, and includes flamingo spotting, a visit to the museum, as well as a salt tasting.
Watch the sun drop with a wine in hand
Another option for this afternoon is to head south to the vineyards around Marsala for a wine tasting as the sun goes down. We met a Marsala-born sommelier in London and he swears by the wines of this region, so a vineyard visit is most definitely on our radar for next time.
There are a number of wineries around the Marsala region that you can visit, but we’ve got our eye on this highly-rated sunset wine tasting at Donna Franca Winery. Over an hour-and-a-half, you’ll tour the winery and taste three wines as the sun sets alongside a selection of local Sicilian snacks. The coastal views from this winery look superb.
Itinerary alternative: Slow the pace on the Isole Egadi (Aegadian Islands)
In the seas off Trapani rise the rugged islands of the Egadi archipelago: Favignana, Levanzo and Marettimo.
While the pace in western Sicily is generally pretty chill, these smaller isles take relaxed Mediterranean living to the next level – think crystal clear waters, peaceful pebble coves, white-washed fishing villages, and a thoroughly local feel.
The Egadi Islands are on our list for a future visit and we haven’t factored them into this two week Sicily travel itinerary. But if you have more time, or if you’re willing to make some itinerary trade-offs, this is a great option for a day out on the water swimming and snorkelling, or a couple of days relaxing well off the beaten track.
Or pack your swimmers for a gorgeous day exploring the bays, reefs, coves and sea caves of the islands on a boat tour. We’ve rounded up a couple of trips we’d love to do; they depart from Trapani and get stellar reviews:
Favignana and Levanzo Egadi Island Day Cruise – this 8-hour, small-group speedboat cruise stops at various coves, beaches and sea caves and gives you free time for lunch on Favignana. It includes snorkelling gear, fruit, Sicilian snacks and an open bar.
Sailboat Trip to Favignana & Levanzo – another small-group, full-day tour to the beaches and bays of the islands, this one aboard a beautiful yacht where you can relax on deck between swimming and snorkelling stops; there’s free time on Favignana, plus snorkelling equipment, snacks and an open bar.
Day 6: Selinunte and Agrigento‘s Valley of the Temples
Highlights:Ancient Selinunte | Sicily’s White Cliffs | Valley of the Temples Total driving distance: appx. 185km (115 miles) Total driving time: appx. 3 hours Overnight:Agrigento
Farewell Trapani this morning and head south then east for two of Sicily’s most epic ancient temple sites:
Selinunte Archaeological Park (Parco Archeologico di Selinunte) – a vast complex spectacularly located by the sea on Sicily’s far south-west coast; and
Agrigento’s Valley of the Temples (Valle dei Templi) – a World Heritage site and one of the most majestic Greek temple complexes still standing today.
This is a BIG and busy day and if two large archaeological sites sounds like too much, you could make a later start from Trapani this morning and do just one site instead. If it was our first visit to Sicily and we had to choose, we would go with the Valley of the Temples at Agrigento.
Having said that, for us, Selinunte – off the beaten track and peacefully ambient – was a surprise highlight of our 2 weeks in Sicily. So if ancient sites are a drawcard for you, we reckon it’s worth the effort to visit both. If you do, be ready for lots of walking; wear comfy shoes and have sun protection.
Morning at Selinunte Archaeological Park
We recommend being on the road around 7.30am. There are a couple of routes from Trapani to Selinunte: the fastest route is inland and south via the SS113 and takes around 75 minutes. Or you can follow the SS115 via Marsala, which takes around 90 minutes.
Selinunte was a thriving Greek colony from around the 7th century BC, set in a commanding location by the sea. Around 409BC, the Carthaginians invaded, dispatching most of Selinunte’s inhabitants and taking many others away as slaves. The city never recovered and was completely destroyed 240 years later in the First Punic War.
Despite its fall so long ago, there’s still plenty to see here, including the impressive Selinunte temples and acropolis (Temple E is the largest and best preserved), city wall remains, and the ruins of homes, shops and civic buildings.
What really struck us as we wandered the pathways here was the broken terracotta here and there underfoot, and the giant piles of temple rubble and fallen columns. It really brought home the reality of Selinunte’s total destruction.
The park’s on-site museum, the Antiquarium Baglio Florio, is well worth a visit and we recommend starting your visit there for some insight and context on the site.
Tickets, parking and access
Selinunte is open daily from 9am (8am from May to mid-September). As opening and closing times change depending on the time of year, we recommend that you check before you go.
There’s a free car park near the ticket office, off Piazzale Bovio Marconi. You can buy tickets online in advance or on the day. At last check, entry was around €17. There’s also an €8 shuttle that helps visitors make their way around the huge site, and guided tours that you can sign up for when you get there. Allow 3 to 4 hours here.
If you want to grab some lunch before making the drive to Agrigento, there are a number of restaurants in Marinella, the town next door to Selinunte.
It may not be on the typical Sicily trip itinerary, but the ambient ruins of seaside Selinunte turned out to be one of our favourite stops.
Early afternoon at Sicily’s white cliffs
As you travel along the south coast between Selinunte and Agrigento, you’ll pass some stretches of white cliffs, including the famous Scala dei Turchi, a curve of meringue-like white marl frozen in a timeless cascade into the sea.
The turn-off for the Scala dei Turchi is around 20 minutes before Agrigento along the SS15. We somehow missed this when we were planning our own Sicily road trip and we were kicking ourselves when we discovered that we’d driven straight past.
However, while this used to be a simple detour on the map, new rules around access mean it’s no longer the straightforward side trip it once was. Read on below.
Travel tip: Is Scala dei Turchi worth the detour?
Following an extended closure, the Scala dei Turchi reopened in mid-2025 with new rules around access to protect the fragile cliffs, and arrangements have changed several times since.
Under the latest rules in 2026, tickets cost €6 and must be bought at the site (no longer online). Visitor numbers are capped at 1,800 per day, with access in groups of 50 for just 20 minutes. In practice, this means your best bet is to arrive early, compete for limited parking, buy a ticket, then wait your turn for a very brief visit.
The controls and restrictions are absolutely necessary for the long-term protection of the Scala dei Turchi, which was at risk of being loved into ruin. But we’re no longer convinced the experience is worth the time and effort required on an already busy day.
There are some alternatives. One option is to see the cliffs from the water and explore the Agrigento coastline on a boat trip, like this top-rated 3.5 hour boat tour out of nearby San Leone. You’d need the morning free to do this.
Another option – this would be our choice if visiting both Selinunte and Agrigento – is to skip Scala dei Turchi and make an earlier diversion along today’s coastal route to Capo Bianco at Eraclea Minoa.
This is another stretch of white marl headland, perhaps not as dramatic but much quieter, and you can park up and walk out along the cliff-top path for free (just a little heads up: there’s a naturist beach here). There’s also an ancient Greek theatre ruin that can be visited for €6.
Afternoon at Valley of the Temples, Agrigento
From Selinunte, the drive to Agrigento is an easy 90-minute cruise along the SS115.
Agrigento was one of the most important cities of Magna Grecia (greater Greece) from the 6th century BC on. To honour their gods, the people of the city built a number of imposing Doric temples along its southern edge in the 5th and 4th-centuries BC.
Like Selinunte, Agrigento was conquered over and over, before Rome sacked the city in 210BC. Yet somehow, despite pillage, earthquakes and the ravages of time, the temples here remain among the most impressive and best-preserved in the world.
Ironically, the Valley of the Temples is on a ridge rather than in a valley. You’ll see some of the site’s temple columns rising above the landscape on the road approach to the archaeological area.
What to see in the Valley of the Temples
Agrigento Archaeological Park is huge and spreads out across western and eastern zones on either side of the Strada Provinciale 4, with a pedestrian overpass connecting the two zones. It’s around 2km (1.2 miles) from one end to the other and an electric shuttle bus runs between them; at last check this was around €4 per person.
There are seven Doric-style temples to explore and, in our opinion, they’re all worth visiting. The most complete and impressive is the Temple of Concordia in the eastern zone. In the western zone, the mostly ruined Temple of Dioscuri has a lovely backdrop of the surrounding valley and the city of Agrigento rising behind it.
There’s also the peaceful Kolymbethra Garden (a restored citrus and olive grove), and the Museo Archeologico Regionale Pietro Griffo, worth visiting for its collection of finds from the ancient city.
Guided tours
We were happy to wander the site on our own with an audio guide, but if you’re interested in having a real guide show you around, this highly-rated Valley of the Temples guided tour includes skip-the-line entry, and a 2-hour walking immersion in the history, stories and myths of the site in the company of an expert guide.
If you can time your visit for sunset and into the evening, then definitely do – the setting sun makes the temples glow and they look beautiful when the night lights come on. If you want to go guided during the atmospheric golden hour, check out this 2-hour, skip-the-line Valley of the Temples sunset tour.
Tickets, parking and access
We parked at Porta V (Porta Quinta-Sant’Anna parking) along Viale Caduti di Marzabotto. As you’ll be coming from the south, this is the first parking area you’ll come across. There’s a second parking area, Temple of Guinone parking, on Via Panoramica dei Templi. Both car parks are next to ticket offices and both charge around €3 for cars.
You can buy tickets when you arrive at the Valley of the Temples, but as this is a very popular site, it’s better to buy them online in advance. At last check, entry is around €14, or €20 if you add the Kolymbethra Garden. This official skip the line ticket is very popular and gets decent reviews for the included app audio guide.
The Valley of the Temples is generally open daily from 8.30am to 8pm (last entry 7pm), with extended hours during summer. Entry is free until 7pm on the first Sunday of the month. There are variations to opening hours though, so definitely check ahead before you go. Aim to spend at least a couple of hours here.
The extraordinary temples of World Heritage site Agrigento are a must-see on our 14-day Sicily itinerary.
Where to stay in Agrigento
There are plenty of places to stay in Agrigento city itself, a 5-minute drive north of the Valley of the Temples. Check with your accommodation about parking though as there is a Zona Traffico Limitato (ZTL) in the city’s historic centre. The following stays in and around Agrigento all get excellent reviews:
Good value:B&B Le Stanze Al Centro – Spacious, spotless rooms and a warm, helpful host; conveniently located near the old town and a short drive from the Valley of the Temples; free public parking nearby.
Mid-range:B&B Sorahnia – Design House – Modern, stylish and immaculately-kept guesthouse with a host who gets top reviews for her hospitality and breakfasts; a short drive to the Valley of the Temples and free and secure on-site parking.
Go all out:Villa Athena Resort – This high-end luxury retreat puts you on the doorstep of the temples, with views and direct access to the park; it has elegant rooms, a pool, spa and exceptional service; free on-site parking.
We personally opted to stay to the east of the Valley of the Temples in the suburb of Villaggio Mosè, at the pleasant and reasonably-priced Villa Concordia, with secure parking. This was well-located a short drive from the ancient site; we just found the local eating options a little limited.
Day 7: Syracuse/Ortigia via Villa Romana del Casale
Highlights:Villa Romana del Casale | Ortigia’s Città Vecchia Total driving distance: appx. 225-245km (140-152 miles) Total driving time: appx. 3.25 hours Overnight:Syracuse
Today, our Sicily road trip has you heading towards Syracuse on the island’s east coast. This will be your base for the next four nights as you explore this historic city and its ancient settlement of Ortigia, as well as three of the impressive Baroque towns of the World Heritage Val di Noto region: Ragusa, Noto and Catania.
First stop this morning though is the extraordinary Villa Romana del Casale, a drive of around 75 minutes. We suggest getting on the road around 7.30am so you’re there for opening.
Morning at Villa Romana del Casale
If you see one excavated Ancient Roman villa in your lifetime, make it this one. While there are various theories about who owned this vast 4th-century home on the slopes of Mount Mangone, its size and opulence suggests they had some serious means.
The Villa Romana del Casale has been listed as World Heritage, in the main for its exquisite and extensive mosaic floors: no less than 3,500 square metres of tessellated masterpieces decorate the villa.
Covered over time by mud from the mountain, the mosaics survived the ravages of invaders and the ages. Today, they are considered among the best preserved and most beautiful in situ mosaics ever found. In our opinion, this is a must for your Sicily trip itinerary.
All of the mosaics here wowed us, but we particularly loved the Great Hunt mosaic. This 60-metre-long depiction of Romans hunting and capturing wild and exotic animals in Africa is truly epic, like an ancient tesserae version of a feature-length film. Also look out for the famous mosaic of bikini-clad women playing sport – an unexpected insight into the times.
To really immerse in the history and culture of this special site, it’s worth having an expert guide: this highly-rated, 1.5 hour guided tour of the site runs at various times throughout the day and will introduce you to the stories behind each room, mosaic and fresco.
Tickets, parking and access
The Villa Romana del Casale is open daily from 9am to 7pm during high season (last entry at 6pm), with reduced hours during low season. At the time of writing, there’s also an evening ticket available between mid-May and mid-September.
At last check, tickets were €14 and you can buy them on arrival. Entry is free on the first Sunday of the month. As things can change, it’s a good idea to confirm prices and opening hours before you go.
There’s a car park on site that costs a couple of euros. Aim to spend at least 2 hours here.
One small segment of the epic Great Hunt mosaic that decorates a long hallway at Villa Romana del Casale.
Travel tip: Leaving luggage in the car
Villa Romana del Casale is one of several stops on this itinerary where you’ll be stopping to sightsee with luggage in your car.
We generally try to avoid doing this when we road trip as car break-ins are always a possibility, no matter where you are in the world, and no one wants to spend their trip filing police reports, chasing insurance, and buying new undies.
If you don’t mind a bit of backtracking in some places, then you might prefer to drive to your accommodation, drop off your luggage and come back. This is not always possible though. Villa Romana, for example, is a long drive from both Agrigento and Syracuse.
In these situations, we keep everything important and valuable with us in our daypacks (which we carry with us), tuck everything away inside the car, avoid opening the car boot at sightseeing stops, and double check everything is locked up tight.
We had no issues during our Sicily trip. There are no guarantees in life though, all you can do is plan ahead, take precautions, and have travel insurance!
Afternoon and evening in Ortigia
Next stop: Syracuse and Ortigia. The drive can take up to 2 hours depending on the route and traffic, so if you’d like something to eat after visiting the Villa Romana and before setting out, there are quite a few eateries in Piazza Armerina around 15 minutes’ drive up the road.
The ancient city of Syracuse has a history spanning 3,000 years. Once the most powerful city state of Magna Graecia, it went on to become part of Rome and then capital of the Byzantine Empire in the 7th century. Along its journey to the present, it absorbed the weaves of various cultures from right around the Mediterranean. Today, Syracuse is a World Heritage site.
The highlight of a visit to Syracuse is Ortigia Island (you may also see it spelled Ortygia). This tiny walled hamlet is Syracuse’s Città Vecchia, the Old City, and this is where the founding colony was established.
What to see on Ortigia Island
Ortigia is beautifully Baroque and we really enjoyed just wandering the streets here under our own steam. Highlights include the Piazza Duomo and the stunning Cathedral of Syracuse, which has a small entry fee. There’s also the 6th-century-BC Temple of Apollo, said to be one of the oldest Greek temples in the world, and the ancient Fountain of Arethusa.
For a guided insight into the history, stories and cultural treasures that have shaped this town, there are some great tours to join, like this 2-hour Highlights of Ortigia Guided Walking Tour, which will introduce you to the key sites of the Old Town as well as the rich cultural heritage of the city, in the company of an expert guide.
Aim to be by the sea for a wander along the Lungomare Alfeo as the sun sets, then find somewhere for an aperitivo and dinner.
Wandering around ancient Ortigia is a highlight of 2 weeks in Sicily.
Where to stay in Syracuse/Ortigia
Charming Ortigia is definitely the accommodation drawcard for Syracuse and there are lots of lovely, boutique stays around the island. There are also a couple of paid car parks (parcheggi) on the island where you can leave the car – check with your hotel where best to park. Some suggested stays with great reviews on the island include:
Good value:La Via della Guidecca – Excellent location in the heart of Ortigia; very clean and comfortable rooms; friendly, helpful staff; parking is a short walk away in a paid lot.
Mid-range:La Vacanza Ortigia – Spotless modern apartments with balconies and views, just steps from the main sights; responsive and helpful hosts; paid parking close by.
Spend a bit more:Maniace Boutique Hotel Ortigia – Elegant, stylish rooms on the island’s seafront, with excellent breakfasts and exceptional staff who go above and beyond; paid private parking nearby.
Alternatively, there are plenty of accommodation options in the area of Syracuse between Ortigia and Neapolis Archaeological Park. This is a handy part of town to stay as it’s about a 30-minute walk between the two spots.
For our part, we chose to base ourselves around half-an-hour’s drive from Syracuse in the coastal town of Avola, at Shurhuq Ospitalità Siciliana, a gorgeous and very stylish stay with wonderful hosts and an excellent breakfast served on a sunny terrace.
As much as we loved the stay, with hindsight it would have been easier to be based in Syracuse for this leg of our road trip – so that’s what we’ve recommended here. That said, if you’re returning to Sicily and want to explore more of the south-east, do head to Avola (and do check out this stay)!
Day 8: Syracuse and Ortigia
Highlights:Neapolis Archaeological Park | Ortigia’s Città Vecchia Total driving distance: No driving today (unless you visit the Necropolis of Pantalica, an 80km/50 mile round-trip) Overnight:Syracuse/Ortigia
Morning at Neapolis Archaeological Park
Of all the things to do in Syracuse, a couple of hours at this amazing open-air museum is a must. If it’s hot, we recommend a morning visit as there’s very little shade. We visited in the afternoon and spent the whole time feeling like we were on the verge of spontaneous combustion.
In Neapolis Archaeological Park, you’ll find some of the most important ruins of Syracuse’s Greco-Roman past, including a 2nd-century Roman amphitheatre and a 5th-century-BC Greek theatre, Sicily’s biggest.
Opera performances are held at the Greek Theatre of Syracuse during May and June each year. Check out the INDA website for what’s on if you’re in town at the right time.
Our favourite site in Neapolis Archaeological Park is the Latomie del Paradiso (Paradise Quarry), with its unusual ‘Ear of Dionysius’. You’ll immediately see why the artist Caravaggio gave this uniquely-shaped and acoustically-notable quarry cave its nickname.
Also worth seeking out is the monumental Altar of Hieron, thought to have been dedicated to Zeus and used for the mass sacrifice of bulls.
While you can wander independently, this is definitely the kind of site worth exploring with a guide – they’ll bring the remnants and ruins alive with context and stories, and things you may not otherwise notice. One highly-rated option is this 2-hour, expert-led Neapolis and Greek Theatre Guided Tour, which includes the park entry ticket.
Neapolis Archaeological Park is typically open daily from 8.30am until an hour or so before sunset, but opening hours are seasonal and scale back over winter, so it’s best to check the official park website before you visit. Also, the ticket office is a short walk from the entrance gates.
Venture underground at the Catacomb of San Giovanni
A 10-minute walk from the archaeological park is the entry to the historic Basilica and Catacombs of St John. If you missed the catacombs in Palermo, or if you just find these subterranean spaces eerily fascinating like we do, then we recommend joining one of the guided tours that depart from the ticket office throughout the day.
We rocked up on the day, bought our tickets, and joined the next tour going. At last check, tickets cost around €8. Just note that the site closes for a couple of hours in the early afternoon.
The ancient Ear of Dionysius cave at Neapolis Archaeological Park in Syracuse.
Afternoon and evening back in Ortigia
Head back to Ortigia this afternoon to explore more of the island and its highlights.
If you haven’t been to the cathedral, now’s the time. Also in the Piazza Duomo, you’ll find the Baroque-style Santa Lucia Alla Badia and the lavish, Rococo-style Palazzo Borgia del Casale.
At the Piazza Archimede, there’s the Fontana di Diana. If you’re feeling peckish, swing by nearby Pasticceria Artale to sample some of their traditional sweet or savoury goodies.
You could also explore the Giudecca (the Jewish Quarter), and the nearby Forte Vigliena for views. On the very tip of the island hulks the 13th-century Castello Maniace, which can also be visited.
As the sun drops, make your way back to the island’s west for aperitivo hour or head out along the jetty near the Fountain of Arethusa to watch the sun set before finding dinner.
The Fountain of Diana is a central landmark on the island of Ortigia in Syracuse.
Itinerary alternatives: Hiking or wine tasting in the Val di Noto
If you’re keen to explore beyond Syracuse and Ortigia, here are some excellent alternatives for a half-day experience beyond the city in the beautiful outdoors of the Val di Noto:
Hike to the ancientNecropolis of Pantalica – with its 5,000 rock-cut tombs, this is part of the Syracuse World Heritage area. It is possible to hike independently but with limited time, a more straightforward option is to go with a guide who knows the area. This highly-rated guided hiking tour of Pantalica Nature Reserve sets out in the morning from Syracuse, with around 4 hours of guided hiking through Pantalica and the Valle dell’Anapo, visiting Byzantine cave dwellings and archaeological sites, plus time to cool off at some swimming spots.
Go wine tasting in the Val di Noto – We’re always on the lookout for local wineries when we travel and with literally dozens of wine producers in this region, there are plenty of opportunities to spend a couple of hours exploring the vines and sampling some fine local Sicilian wines. Find a wine experience near Syracuse.
Day 9: Val di Noto – Ragusa and Noto
Highlights:Medieval and Baroque Ragusa Ibla | Baroque Noto Total driving distance: appx. 185km (115 miles) Total driving time: appx. 3 hours Overnight:Syracuse/Ortigia
The Val di Noto is a region in the south-east of Sicily encompassing eight cities collectively listed as World Heritage for their striking late Baroque architecture. The cities are Catania, Militello Val di Catania, Caltagirone, Modica, Palazzolo Acreide, Scicli, Ragusa and Noto.
Today we’re including the last two of these beauties on a day trip by car from Syracuse/Ortigia. Tomorrow you’ll visit a third with a train trip to Catania.
Travel tip: If you’d rather slow the pace and have more time to explore, we suggest focusing on just one town today and one tomorrow, choosing between Ragusa, Noto, Catania or another of the Val di Noto towns. This also helps with navigating the mid-afternoon riposo (siesta), when many sites and restaurants close for a couple of hours.
Morning in Ragusa
If you’re following our itinerary, aim to start early today as there’s a lot of ground to cover. We opted to make today’s drive an anti-clockwise loop out of Syracuse rather than backtracking along the E45. So we travelled to Ragusa via the SP14 and SS194. At 1.5 hours, it takes 20 minutes longer than if you go via the E45 but you’ll be travelling in one direction with new scenery all day.
Pretty Ragusa rises and falls in two defined areas separated by a ravine. There’s the lower ‘old town’ of Ragusa Ibla and the upper ‘new town’ of Ragusa Superiore.
The city you see is the direct result of a catastrophic earthquake that devastated east Sicily in 1693. Many who survived the destruction moved out of the ruined town and built new homes in the higher area that is now Ragusa Superiore, while others stayed and rebuilt in the old town. Today Ragusa is a blend of medieval and Baroque architecture.
What to see in Ragusa
We managed to find free parking in a small car park at the bottom end of Via Giusti, not far from Ragusa Ibla. There’s also a paid car park nearby at Parcheggio Repubblica. We then spent most of the morning wandering the charming streets of Ibla between the Cattedrale di San Giorgio and the Giardino Ibleo.
In the upper town, you’ll find another beautiful cathedral, Cattedrale di San Giovanni Battista on Piazza San Giovanni. If you’re keen to know more about the history of Ragusa, a local museum, the Museo Archeologico Ibleo di Ragusa, is a 5-minute walk from the cathedral.
The town is renowned for its food scene, so this is a great spot for a leisurely sit-down lunch before continuing on. If you prefer a quick bite, head to a bakery for Scaccia Ragusana, a delicious calzone-like stuffed flat bread.
Ragusa Superiore is separated from Ragusa Ibla by a ravine called the Valle dei Ponti.
Many a visitor to Ragusa will make the pilgrimage up the 300-odd steps to the church at the top, Chiesa Delle Scale, for the pano views to be found up there. We ran out of time sadly, but there’s another, easier-to-reach rooftop view from the cathedral’s campanile.
Afternoon in Noto
After lunch, make for the city of Noto. It’s around an hour’s drive from Ragusa. Noto was also levelled by Sicily’s notorious earthquake of the late 17th century. A new town was raised over the destruction, styled in Sicilian Baroque, and this exceptional architectural time capsule is what you see today.
As you’ll likely arrive during the afternoon riposo, take the time to simply wander Noto’s streets and admire the city’s elaborate yet elegant architecture, starting at the city gateway, the Porta Reale and heading west along the Corso Vittorio Emanuele. Head inside the beautiful cathedral, Basilica Cattedrale di San Nicolò (it’s free and usually stays open all day).
Afterwards, pull up a seat outside at Caffe Sicilia on Corso Vittorio Emanuele and order their famous granita cappuccino ghiacciato. Granita is a must-try shaved ice Sicilian specialty that comes in a variety of flavours. This was exactly the afternoon pick-me-up we needed.
Sites will start to reopen from around 3.30pm to 4pm. Other Noto must-sees include the Palazzo Ducezio and the bell tower, Belvedere del Campanile de San Carlos (both of which offer superb views over the city), as well as the richly decorated theatre, Teatro Comunale Tina di Lorenzo.
There are also a number of beautiful palaces and churches to visit. We particularly liked Palazzo Nicolaci dei Principi di Villadorata, Chiesa di San Domenico and Chiesa di San Carlo al Corso (which also serves up views from its upper levels).
Noto really comes into its own as the sun drops: the buildings are clad with Noto Stone, a creamy mellow limestone that turns a rich honey colour under the last golden rays of the day. So it’s worth sticking around for sunset and twilight if you have a good day.
For dinner tonight, stay in Noto or make your way back to Syracuse. The drive is around 40 minutes.
Beautiful, buttercream-coloured Noto Cathedral is one of the Baroque highlights of our Sicily itinerary.
Highlights:Catania’s Baroque Centro Storico Total driving distance: It’s not recommended to drive into Catania but if you do, the journey is appx. 140km return (87 miles) Total driving time: appx. 1 hour 40 Overnight:Syracuse
Catania is Sicily’s buzzing second city, and the largest town in the island’s east. Having risen and fallen over and again in the shadow of mercurial Etna, Catania has come of age with a bit of a gritty edge. This, and a lack of time in our original itinerary in Sicily, led to us not visiting and with hindsight, we really wish we had. As such, we’ve included the city in this itinerary as a day trip from Syracuse.
By all accounts, driving in Catania can be a stressful experience, with traffic, ZTLs, one-way streets and parking challenges. So why not leave the car today and take a train instead from Syracuse to Catania Centrale? The journey takes around 75 minutes.
Catania’s historic old town – the Centro Storico – is another of the Val di Noto’s World Heritage Baroque showpieces, but with a very local touch: these elaborate buildings were made with Etna’s own black lava stone.
What to see in Catania
The city’s highlights are all located fairly close together and include the Piazza del Duomo with its Basilica Cattedrale di Sant’Agata and lava stone Fontana dell’Elefante. There’s also the Chiesa di San Benedetto, Palazzo Biscari, the Teatro Romano and the smaller Roman Odeon next door, the triumphal Porta Garibaldi, Basilica della Collegiata and the Teatro Massimo Bellini.
If you arrive early enough in the day, there’s the historic fish market to visit and, not far from there, Castello Ursino. For Ancient Rome diehards like us: if you wander up to Piazza Stesicoro, you can see a small unearthed section of Catania’s once-enormous amphitheatre.
Guided tours
With one day in Catania to play with, we would do what we usually do in a new city and seek out a guided walking tour to introduce us to the highlights, and give us a historical and cultural introduction to the place.
Happily, food is a key theme of many walking tours in this town, and with limited time, it makes sense to combine the two (not that we need much convincing). The tours below get top marks for their guides, the tastings and the experience. They last from 2.5 to 3 hours and have morning and afternoon or evening sessions. One tour also delves into Catania’s ancient underground for a unique view on the city’s past.
Even if you don’t do a food tour, do seek out some of Catania’s local food specialties, like stuffed cartocciata rolls and tasty eggplant and ricotta pasta dish: Pasta alla Norma.
Catania’s Cathedral is a classic example of how the city has worked Etna’s black lava stone into its Baroque architecture.
Want to stay overnight in Catania?
While this Sicily travel itinerary has you visiting Catania as a day trip from Syracuse, if you do want to spend an evening or two in Catania (or if you’re starting and finishing your trip here), then we’ve rounded up some suggested accommodation options below.
If you’re short on time in Catania, your best bet is finding accommodation in or around the city’s Centro Storico, at the heart of which is the Piazza del Duomo.
Staying around here will mean less fuss navigating the city’s infamously unreliable public transport system and, apart from driving to the parking for your accommodation, you really do want to avoid any other driving in Catania. Parking will likely set you back between €12-25 a day.
Good value: Ursino’s Luxury – Spotless, character-filled B&B around 10 minutes’ walk from Piazza del Duomo, with a highly-regarded host and views from some balconies; paid private nearby parking.
Mid-range: Hotel Centrum – Staff get top reviews at this centrally-located hotel, it also gets high marks for its spotless rooms and excellent included breakfast; paid private parking nearby.
Spend a bit more:Habitat Boutique Hotel – Beautifully restored boutique hotel near Teatro Massimo with modern, spacious and quiet rooms, exceptional staff service and an outstanding breakfast; paid private parking nearby.
Itinerary alternative: Rather skip Catania? Here are some other options.
If a day of Catania sightseeing isn’t for you, there are lots of other things to do in and around Syracuse. Some of the things we’ve got on our list for next time:
Learn the divine art of the local cuisine with a Sicilian cooking class overlooking the Greek Theatre;
Or simply enjoy some beach time at one of Syracuse’s sandy beaches, like San Lorenzo Beach or Fontane Bianche Beach.
Another option is to head to Taormina a day early and explore more of this popular town and its nearby beaches.
Day 11: Taormina
Highlights:Ortigia Market | Taormina Sightseeing Total driving distance: appx. 120km (75 miles) Total driving time: appx. 1.5 hours Overnight:Taormina
Today, depart Syracuse and head north to the coastal town of Taormina. This will be your base for the next two nights as you explore this historic hilltop town, and spend the following day on the otherworldly slopes of Mount Etna.
Early morning at Ortigia’s famous street market
Before checking out of your Syracuse accommodation this morning, take the opportunity (if you haven’t already) to visit the Mercato di Ortigia, the city’s famed street market.
Just as it has for hundreds of years, this vibrant market opens early six days a week (it’s closed Sundays), selling beautiful, fresh regional food. It runs until 2pm but is at its most bustling in the morning (and there are fewer tour groups). This is a great place to pick up some cured meats and cheeses, or some fresh sandwiches, for the day ahead.
Rest of day and evening in Taormina
The drive from Syracuse to Taormina is around 90 minutes via the A18/E45. There’s a toll on the section between Catania and Taormina (see our Tips on driving in Sicily section for more on tolls).
Taormina rises and falls over the slopes of Mount Tauro, overlooking a spectacular vista of azure sea and the hazy blue slopes of Mount Etna.
People have lived on this mountain for 2,500 years, but Taormina emerged on the historical stage around the 4th-century-BC as a Greek colony. It went on to become the Byzantine capital of Sicily before a run of invaders came along and left their mark.
Taormina is said by many to be Sicily’s most elegant city. It’s also one of Sicily’s most touristy and expensive towns, especially during the summer months.
Don’t let that put you off though. It is a really charming place. And for us, taking in the incredible backdrop of Mount Etna and the coast from the steps of the ancient theatre made Taormina worthy of a visit all on its own. Just be ready for crowds, especially if you’re visiting in peak.
Once you’ve parked up, found your accommodation and dropped your bags, spend the rest of the day checking out the various things to do in Taormina.
What to see in Taormina
Start with a wander along Corso Umberto, the main thoroughfare linking the historic gates of Porta Catania and Porta Messina.
The most famous site in town is undeniably the Ancient Theatreof Taormina, a 3rd-century Greek playhouse open to the elements, with absolutely spectacular views across the coast to Etna.
Book your skip-the-queue ticket online; it also comes with an audio guide for the site. Entry is free on the first Sunday of the month. The theatre typically opens from 9am, but closing times vary throughout the year so check ahead. There are also regular performances of opera and other music in this historic space.
In addition to the theatre, Taormina highlights include the chequerboard Piazza IX Aprile and the Chiesa di San Giuseppe, along with the cathedral, Duomo diTaormina, the medieval Palazzo Corvaja, and the gardens of the Villa Comunale di Taormina. Also search out the beautifully decorated façades, doors and wrought iron balconies along Via Giardinazzo.
If you fancy stretching your legs later in the day and seeking out even more expansive views, there’s an hour-long round-trip trail walk up to the mountaintop church, Chiesa Madonna della Rocca.
The beauty of staying at least one night in Taormina is the opportunity to experience the town after the crowds of day-trippers and tour groups have left. Now’s the time to really appreciate the ambience of this historic city with a drink and dinner as twilight paints the sky pastel.
The view from Taormina’s Greek Theatre to Mount Etna: possibly the greatest natural theatre backdrop in history.
Where to stay in Taormina
Taormina is the most expensive place for accommodation in our Sicily itinerary. Parking is also pricey but if you don’t mind forking out for a spot in one of the city’s main car parks, then you have plenty of options for a stay in or around the historic centre. Just bear in mind that you may need to climb stairs or steep paths to reach your stay.
For budget and lower mid-range accommodation, your best bet is to look outside of the historic centre, although there are a couple of hostels in town. Consider the areas below Mount Tauro, like Mazzarò, which is near Isola Bella and has a cable car up to Taormina, and Giardini-Naxos, which has a bus running up to Taormina from Taormina-Giardini train station.
Some suggested options for Taormina and surrounds are:
Good value:Hotel Condor – Charming hotel with sea views from some rooms, terrace breakfasts overlooking the coast, warm and friendly service, and a 5-minute walk downhill to the historic centre; paid private parking nearby.
Mid-range:A’Coffa Rooms – Spacious, modern rooms with balconies, welcoming hosts and a top location near Taormina’s attractions; park at paid Lumbi car park.
Spend a bit more: Villa Le Terrazze Charming Rooms – Boutique comfort set high above central Taormina with breathtaking views to Mount Etna (it’s a steep walk or bus from town, but the views!); there’s also a pool terrace, outstanding breakfast service, and attentive staff, plus paid parking on site.
Spend a bit more: Paradisea Taormina – Located down in the seaside neighbourhood of Mazzarò, this beachfront stay is very popular for its views and terraces, easy access to the beach and Taormina cable car, its warm and helpful host, and the free private parking on site.
We personally stayed around 5 minutes from Giardini-Naxos at B&B Sottocoperta, a lovely, family-run stay with comfy rooms, warm hosts, and beautiful sea views from the terrace. We found free street parking nearby and were just minutes’ walk from the bus to and from Taormina.
Travel tip: Plan your parking before you get to Taormina
Parking in Taormina can be a headache as there’s a ZTL, street spaces are hard to find, and restrictions can be confusing. The easiest option is to park in one of the main paid public parking lots: Lumbi Parking, Porta Catania Parking, Porta Pasquale Parking and Mazzarò Parking.
Chat to your accommodation host about where best to park for your stay. Porta Catania is closest to Taormina’s main street (Corso Umberto). Porta Pasquale is convenient if you’re staying near the Porta Messina end of town. Lumbi is the largest car park and has a frequent shuttle into town.
Mazzarò is good if you’re staying down in the beachside area. There’s a cable car up to Taormina. If you’re staying around Giardini-Naxos, there’s a car park next to the train station.
Day 12: Mount Etna and Taormina
Highlights:Mount Etna visit | Winery tour and tasting Total driving distance: Return drive to Mount Etna is appx. 110km (70 miles) Total driving time: appx. 3 hours Overnight:Taormina
Mount Etna lords over the landscape of Sicily’s north-east. This is the tallest and most active volcano in Europe and Etna’s been grumbling her discontent for tens of thousands of years. Recorded eruptions reach back as far as the 4th century BC.
It goes without saying that Etna has had a monumental impact on the landscape, history and people of Sicily. For her efforts, the mountain has been designated a World Heritage site, and a two week Sicily road trip isn’t a fait accompli without engaging in some way with this history-shaping force of nature.
It’s entirely possible, and easy, to drive to Mount Etna independently. This is what we did as we wanted to be able to stop along the way and take in the staggering and surreal scenery.
From Taormina, set directions for Rifugio Sapienza on the southern side of Etna. This mountain refuge at around 1,910 metres is the launch pad for various activities on the mountain. It’s a 55km (34 mile) drive along the A18 and SP92 and takes around 75 minutes.
Once at the refugio, you can join a guided volcano tour or trek, go for a self-guided hike on one of the nearby trails (you can hike independently on Etna up to 2,800 metres; beyond that elevation, you need a certified guide), or simply enjoy the immense views from the refugio bar and restaurant.
Guided tours of Etna
There are plenty of guided tour options on Etna, ranging from short walks and quad bike tours around the lower elevations, to mountain bike tours and higher altitude volcano treks. Guided half-day and full-day tours depart from Rifugio Sapienza as well as from Taormina, Catania and Syracuse.
As this was our first visit, we opted for the popular cable car/4×4/volcano walk tour departing Rifugio Sapienza. This entailed a cable car ride from the refuge up to La Montagnola station at 2,500 metres where we boarded special off-road trucks for a drive up to 2,920 metres. There, we joined an expert volcano guide for a walk through Etna’s cratered, otherworldly landscape.
When we visited in April-time, it wasn’t too busy and we were able to sort out a tour on arrival. If you’d prefer some certainty, you can book a priority ticket in advance online and skip the line when you get there.
Next time, we plan to immerse more fully with a guided trek on the mountain. We’ve got our eye on this 6-hour Summit Craters Trek departing Rifugio Sapienza. It includes a cable car and 4×4 jeep ride, followed by a hike to Etna’s summit at 3,350 metres with a certified guide. One thing to be aware of with summit hikes is that safety dictates the route and max altitude – it very much depends on what’s happening on the mountain on the day.
If you don’t fancy driving up Etna, here are some highly-rated guided tour options departing Taormina:
Mount Etna tour with Cable Car – a 6-hour round-trip with transport to the mountain, cable car ride and off-road truck to the main crater at 2,900 metres.
Etna Tour with Hiking, Cave Visit & Tastings – a 7-hour round-trip that combines a nature trail hike from Rifugio Sapienza with a lava cave visit and local produce tastings (there’s also a sunset tour option for this which we would love to do).
One of the peak experiences (pun intended) of our Sicily road trip: A morning exploring the moonscape of craters, black sand and ice on Mount Etna.
Travel tip: Be flexible and check conditions before visiting Etna
Mount Etna is one of the world’s most active volcanoes so heightened activity and eruptions are fairly common; particularly so of late.
The volcano is very closely monitored, and access changes according to volcanic activity, weather and other safety conditions. This means operating altitudes, permitted hiking zones, access to the summit area, and guide requirements can all change at short notice. So it pays to be flexible with your plans.
Be safe and do your bit by checking the latest conditions before setting out, staying within designated areas, following instructions and signs, and going with a licensed guide for higher altitude treks.
Also, on the recommendation of a local, we visited Etna in the morning, as clouds tend to gather over the day. We had beautiful blue skies during our visit and it was quite warm on the drive up. Don’t be fooled though, even during the height of summer, it can get freezing cold up on Etna. Wear layers, bring a warm jacket, a hat, sunnies and wear closed walking or hiking shoes.
Afternoon Etna winery visit
Etna has demonstrated her destructive side throughout history, but the mountain’s lava flows have also resulted in rich soil that has given rise to some excellent vino.
While you can certainly sample the delicious flavours of the Etna region in the restaurants of Taormina and Catania, if you love wine then it’s definitely worth dropping by a vineyard on the slopes of the volcano for a local tasting.
Winery tours and tastings in this area require advance reservation, so book ahead if this is something you’re keen to do (and be aware that some wineries may close over the winter period).
Make your way down off the slopes of Etna back to Taormina, and enjoy another relaxed evening overlooking the coastal lights and sweeping silhouette of the volcano from the heights of Taormina’s Centro Storico.
Itinerary alternative: More time in Taormina
For many travellers, Taormina is the highlight of a trip to Sicily and deserving of several days. There’s no doubting its mountaintop location, village and scenery are breathtaking, and the beaches below offer a classic Italian seaside holiday experience. We personally just found the crowds at Taormina too intense and the prices too high.
However! If you’re keen to spend more time here, there are a couple of ways you could rework our itinerary:
Option 1: On Day 10, leave Syracuse/Ortigia and head to Taormina a day early. You could swing by Catania en route, visit by train another day, or skip it entirely. The downside of visiting Catania on the way is having to navigate traffic and parking, and having all your luggage in the car.
Option 2: Replace Day 13’s stay in Cefalù with another night in Taormina. This gives you a whole extra day to explore the mountain town and its surrounds. If you’re flying out of Palermo, the key consideration for this option is the 3-hour drive on Day 14, making this practical only if your flight is in the evening or the day after. As Cefalù is en route, you could still make a pit stop there if time allows.
Option 3: Fly out of Catania instead of Palermo. Of course this means you won’t complete the island loop and you’ll miss Cefalù and the north coast, but if you fly out of Catania, you can spend more time exploring Taormina and the island’s east.
Day 13: Cefalù
Highlights:Cefalù’s Centro Storico | World Heritage Duomo di Cefalù | La Rocca hike Total driving distance: appx. 215km (135 miles) Total driving time: appx. 2.5 hours Overnight:Cefalù (or Palermo)
Today is the last full day of our Sicily trip itinerary before you complete the loop of the island and fly out of Palermo tomorrow. We suggest breaking up the long drive back to Palermo with a final stop today in the coastal town of Cefalù. It’s around 2.5 hours from Taormina.
You can stay here overnight or, if you have an early flight out tomorrow, continue on afterwards and stay closer to the airport.
A fishing village with a long past, Cefalù’s terracotta rooftops fan out around the base of La Rocca di Cefalù, the hulking 268 metre-high (880 feet) limestone outcrop that dominates the town’s skyline.
What to do in Cefalù
One option for the penultimate day of this 14-day Sicily itinerary is to give it over to a sun lounge at one of Cefalù’s beach clubs. Just be aware that it can get very busy on the beaches between May and September and you’ll need to get in early if you want a spot.
Another option is to enjoy a wander through Cefalù’s medieval old town, keeping an eye out for the historic Porta Pescara and the old harbour, the curious Lavatoio Medievale (a medieval laundry) and the Museo Mandralisica (housing the private art collection of 19th-century Baron Mandralisca and the famed ‘Portrait of an Unknown Man’ from 1465).
A must-see is the Norman-built, 12th-century cathedral – the World Heritage Duomo di Cefalù. It’s renowned for its imposing twin-towered façade and treasured Byzantine mosaics. Entry is free but there’s a fee for the cloister, treasury and rooftop walkways, which are also worth visiting.
If you’re keen, a hike up LaRocca serves up stellar views and some interesting historic sites, like the 5th-century-BC Tempio di Diana, the 10th-century Chiesa di Santa Anna and, at the summit, the ruins of a Norman castle, Castello di Cefalù.
It’s a 3.5km round trip and takes a couple of hours, best done early or later in the day. At last check, entry was €5 – bring the right amount in cash. The trail is open from 8am until 8pm from April to October, with last access at 6pm (3pm in low season). We’ve also heard about people being denied access if they aren’t wearing closed-toe shoes. Read more about the trail.
Tonight, enjoy one more sunset aperitivo and a classic Sicilian supper in one of Cefalù’s seaside restaurants.
Head up La Rocca for fantastic views over Cefalù.
Where to stay in Cefalù
Cefalù’s Centro Storico is where it’s all happening but, like Taormina, this resort town’s popularity means it’s on the pricier side to stay centrally. If you don’t mind being a bit further out, then you might find a better deal. Here are some suggested stays in and around the town, all with excellent reviews:
Good value:Vanity Suite – Guests rate the spotless, newly renovated rooms here, the comfortable facilities, and the convenient location close to the historic centre and beach; free public parking nearby.
Mid-range:Abelia Sea Suites – Immaculate rooms with sea views virtually on the beach and steps from the historic centre, plus a top-notch breakfast, and warm attentive hosts; paid parking a short walk away.
Spend a bit more:Astro Suite Hotel – The seafront setting, spotless suites, friendly staff and beach access make this a popular choice; plus it’s walking distance to the old town and there’s paid parking on site.
Day 14: Depart Palermo
Total driving distance: appx. 100km (62 miles) Total driving time: appx. 1.5 hours
Last day of our epic Sicily road trip!
Leave yourself plenty of time to navigate your way from Cefalù to Palermo Airport and drop off your hire car before checking in.
If you’re flying out later today, this might be an opportunity to sleep in, laze on the beach or enjoy a final wander and a last Sicilian feast in Cefalù.
And start planning your return to Sicily!
Planning a Sicily Road Trip
How long do I need for a Sicily road trip?
Two weeks is the minimum we would recommend for an itinerary in Sicily that takes in the main sites and attractions across the island. This is, after all, the largest island in the Mediterranean.
Our road trip covers a lot of ground, but we make up for the car stints with plenty of sightseeing and getting out and about.
Also, while Sicily has many lovely beaches, we should note that we deliberately haven’t included beach time in this itinerary (we’d personally rather explore a medieval town). If you’re keen for some sea and sand, there are opportunities along the way to swap out activities with time on the beach, particularly around Trapani, Syracuse, Taormina and Cefalù.
If you have less than 2 weeks in Sicily
We highly recommend you focus your road trip on either:
eastern Sicily – Syracuse, Val di Noto, Taormina and Mount Etna, or
western Sicily – Palermo, Erice/Trapani and Agrigento.
If you have more than 2 weeks in Sicily
Slow the pace and add some down time, beach time, or more activities along the way. Some of the things we’d do with more time include:
Exploring the Riserva Naturale dello Zingaro (Zingaro Nature Reserve) and San Vito Lo Capo in north-western Sicily;
Visiting the Isole Egadi (Aegadian Islands) of Favignana, Levanzo and Marettimo from Trapani;
Sailing out to the Isole Eolie (Aeolian Islands), a World Heritage archipelago to Sicily’s north-east that includes the islands of Lipari and the active volcanic isle of Stromboli;
Spending more time exploring the World Heritage Baroque cities of the Val di Noto.
Sicily or Sardinia? We’re asked this question a lot. In our experience, they offer the chance for two very different types of getaway. Our two-week Sardinia road trip emphasises the island’s nature, coastal scenery and outdoor activities, while this Sicily itinerary spends more time on historic cities, archaeological sites and cultural highlights.
Getting to Sicily
By air
Our Sicily travel itinerary starts and finishes in the city of Palermo on the island’s north-west coast. You can fly direct to Palermo’s Falcone-Borsellino Airport (also known as Punta Raisi) from various cities in Italy and other parts of Europe.
As this is a looping itinerary, you could also fly into Catania in the east, or Trapani in the west, and set out from either of those cities.
By sea
If you’re considering travelling to Sicily by car from mainland Italy, there are several ports along the west coast serviced by car ferries, including Civitavecchia near Rome, and Naples Calata Porta di Massa. These are usually overnight cruises to Palermo. Search and compare car ferry services to Palermo.
The shortest car ferry route between the mainland and Sicily, crossing the Strait of Messina between Villa San Giovanni and the port city of Messina, is serviced by Bluferries and Caronte & Tourist.
If you’re visiting Sicily as part of a longer journey through southern Italy, take a look at our two-week Puglia road trip for another self-drive route through the country’s south.
You’ll experience epic scenes like this one at the ancient Greco-Roman Theatre of Segesta on our 14-day Sicily itinerary.
Best time to visit Sicily
Sicily sits at the heart of the Mediterranean, which means hot, dry summers and mild, wet winters.
Based on our experience of road tripping Sicily plus some research, the shoulder periods of April to June and (late) September to October are the best times of year to travel as the weather is milder but it’s not quite as busy as the peak months.
Like many places around the Med, summer sees a rush on Sicily’s coastal towns and beaches, and prices reflect it. We’re not big fans of high heat or crowded sites so we would personally steer clear of Sicily over the peak months of July and August, as well as holiday periods like Easter.
During winter, the temps drop, it gets quiet and you’ll find many sites, restaurants and activities have shorter hours or close down entirely. You won’t find much happening outside of the major towns.
Tips for booking accommodation in Sicily
Book well ahead: Securing your accommodation in advance can save a lot of hassle, particularly in popular towns and during peak travel periods. All of the overnight stops in this Sicily itinerary are in cities or decent-sized towns with a range of stays to suit various budgets and travel styles.
Use a few well-placed bases: It’s easy with a big road trip itinerary like this to wind up staying in a different town every night. When we’re road tripping, our preference is to find a place we can stay for a couple of days and use that as a base for day trips in the car. It means we can settle in, get a little familiar with the place, and we don’t have to stress about leaving luggage in the car while we’re out sightseeing.
Prioritise parking: As this is a self-drive itinerary, a key planning consideration is overnight parking. Look for accommodation with on-site parking or a reliable free or paid parking option nearby. Ask your accommodation hosts if it’s not clear; they can usually point you in the right direction.
We booked all our Sicily stays through Booking.com; it’s our travel go-to for comparing accommodation options, locations, parking and prices.
Reserve your hire car early: If you’re planning to rent a car to road trip Sicily, we recommend booking as far in advance as possible to ensure you have access to the widest choice of vehicles and the best rates, especially if you’re travelling over peak season.
Choose a smaller car: Go for a smaller car if you can; they’re much easier to handle on narrow streets, village lanes and in tight parking spaces.
Arrange to collect your car on Day 4: If you follow this Sicily trip itinerary, you won’t need a hire car until Day 4, as you’ll be spending the first couple of days in Palermo.
Check ZTLs before you drive: Restricted traffic zones cover many historic centres in Sicily, so confirm access and parking arrangements before setting out or booking accommodation – it’ll remove a lot of the stress of driving into each new place. See the next section for more on driving in Sicily.
We use DiscoverCars to compare vehicles, prices and rental conditions across major and local hire companies.
Having driven extensively on the Italian mainland, and having also read plenty of disconcerting reports, it’s fair to say we were initially a little apprehensive about driving in Sicily. As we were told on more than one occasion, ‘road rules are more like suggestions’ here.
That said, once you get to grips with the assertive nature of drivers here, it becomes much easier. Just be ready for it and drive confidently. In the meantime, here are a few things worth knowing before you set out:
Carry the required documents: Keep your driver licence, passport/ID and International Driving Permit (if your driver licence is from outside the EU) with you. We’ve yet to be asked to show our ID or IDP while driving in Italy, but we’ve read reports of it happening to other tourists so carry them just in case.
Watch for ZTLs: Restricted traffic zones cover many historic centres and driving into them without a permit can lead to a fine, so park outside the zone unless your accommodation host arranges access.
Plan your parking: We always pre-plan our parking options before driving somewhere new – it can save a lot of heartache on the day. Mark a few parking options on the map in advance, particularly in larger towns and around historic centres. When it comes to street parking, blue spaces are usually paid, white spaces may be free or restricted, and yellow spaces are for authorised vehicles (always check the signs).
Parking costs: Factor daily parking costs into your trip budget; fees range from a couple of euros for a couple of hours to €20+ for overnight parking in some places.
Expect some toll roads: The A18/E45 between Catania and Messina, and the A20 between Messina and Palermo are tolled. Collect a ticket when entering the toll way, then pay with cash or card as you exit (avoid Telepass-only lanes unless your car hire includes it).
Download offline maps: This is the safest bet for ensuring you still have GPS navigation while you’re driving, even if you don’t have internet. Also, bring a car charger for your phone.
Keep valuables out of sight: On sightseeing days when you have luggage in the car, carry your passports and valuables with you, put everything else away, and avoid opening the car boot until you arrive at your accommodation.
For more tips and takeouts on driving in Italy, including what it’s like, what to watch out for, things to consider when hiring a car, using toll roads, finding parking, avoiding ZTLs and more, check out our post: Driving in Italy: Our Top Tips and What To Expect.
Prepare before you drive
One way to prepare for driving in Sicily is with Tripiamo’s Driving in Italy guide for international drivers. It brings together expert videos, interactive driving tours and an on-the-go PDF covering road rules, signs, fuel, emergencies and other situations you may encounter. The guides have been put together by travel experts in collaboration with local driving schools.
We’ve reviewed Tripiamo’s UK guide and found it highly detailed, easy to follow, and very useful for understanding unfamiliar road rules before getting behind the wheel. For a limited time, you can get 10% off with our discount code: TWOFORTHEWORLD2026.
Ready to book your Sicily trip?
Stays: Our go-to is Booking.com for its wide choice of accommodation and Genius member discounts. Check prices and availability.
Car hire: We use DiscoverCars to compare prices across multiple rental companies, with competitive rates and free cancellation. Compare car hire prices.
Tours: Find top-rated tours, day trips and local experiences in Sicily with GetYourGuide. See what’s available.
eSIMs: We use Airalo to stay connected while travelling. Browse Italy eSIMs.
Airport Transfer: Take the hassle out city airport arrivals and departures by pre-booking an airport transfer with Welcome Pickups.
Questions or feedback about our Sicily road trip itinerary? Let us know in the comments below!
Hi David, thanks so much for your message, we’re really happy you’ve found our Sicily road trip post helpful for your trip planning! Hope you have a fantastic time exploring Sicily, it’s a wonderful island – please do let us know how it goes! ~Danielle
We are heading to Sicily late September. Cannot wait. We only have 11 days, so from your log we have made the decision that we will do one side this trip and the other side on our next trip. I like to take my time and a few rest days will be essential for me. My partner is Italian so there will be another opportunity for us. Now we have to decide which side! What would you recommend?
Hi Kim, thanks so much for your message and yay to hear you’re heading to Sicily very soon! Which side to choose is a tough question! I guess it really depends on what you want out of your first visit, but at least the pressure’s off knowing you’ll be able to visit again. I think it’s fair to say (and in our experience), the eastern side of the island is the more touristy side – you have the big ticket attractions of Taormina, Etna, Syracuse and the Baroque towns of the Val di Noto. It won’t be as busy in September as in high summer but it will still have more of bustling feel and a city focus. In the east, you’ll find a more relaxed vibe, lovely beaches, charming medieval towns, the nature of Zingaro and the Egadi islands, and the historical highlights of Segesta and Selinunte. The Valley of the Temples is also possible day trip in the south. So much to see, but you’ll absolutely enjoy it more with a focus on one region. Let us know what you decide and have a wonderful time! Happy travels!
Wow! Your Sicily itinerary is the best one I’ve read. We are going to spend two week there this Sept and your insight and tips are helping a lot with our plans.
Just wanted to thank you.
Donna
Hi Donna, thank you so much for your lovely feedback, we’re so pleased you’ve found our Sicily itinerary helpful with your planning. Have a wonderful time on your trip! All the best, Danielle & John
Hi Heather, Love your well thought out itinerary. I just initiated plans for a likely trip to Sicily in May 2025. Before making enquiries or commenting, I need to read up more of Sicily. Get back to you then.
Just want to ask you, have you rent the car directly from discoverycars?
or you just search on discoverycars for more offers and then you rent the car from the company’s website ( hertz, as eg).
if so, can you share with us the name of the company where you rent?
Hi. Thanks very much for your Sicily Road Trip Guide. We are travelling there next month and the advice you gave was really helpful (and far better than the countless other guides that exist on the internet).
Best wishes
Peter
Hi Peter, thanks so much for your kind words and positive feedback, we’re really pleased you’ve found our Sicily itinerary useful in your planning. All the best for a fantastic trip!
Cheers
Danielle & John
Thank you so much for helping us find what kind of tour of Sicily suits us. We much prefer driving our rental car to see the sights as you have so suggested plus all the places to stay and see. We have about 3 weeks to spend time in Sicily where we plan to spend in a spa in Sciacca and possibly a few days in Club Med in Cefalu. This trip will be during May, hopefully not during the tourist season!
Do you know of an excellent spa with the special waters of that region?
Hi Roberta and David, thanks so much for your kind feedback, we’re pleased we could be of help with your planning and we’re excited for your trip to Sicily! Three weeks is a lovely amount of time to have on the island, and having some time to relax in Sciacca and Cefalu sounds great.
While we packed in a lot during our own travels around Sicily, enjoying a soak in one of the island’s thermal spas is still on the bucket list!
There are several thermal spas in the region of Sciacca, including the Terme di Sciacca, the Stabilimento Termale and the Piscine Molinelli. There’s also Acqua Pia near Agrigento, and Segesta Thermal Baths. In the east, there are thermal spas at Ali Terme and Acireale. We’ve heard there are facilities at these spas, but as we haven’t visited ourselves, we would suggest checking out TripAdvisor to find out more about them (and hotels/resorts that may use the thermal waters for their inhouse spas). There are also mixed reports about whether some of the spas are currently operational (including Termini Imerese in Palermo), so we definitely suggest enquiring with your accommodation provider about the spas in the areas you’re planning to stay.
We hope you have a wonderful time in Sicily and all the best!
Cheers,
Danielle
Great tips.
My wife and I are planning a one month tour of Sicily in the spring of 2025. We would be renting a car and the cheapest offer we got was from Hertz for an electric car (a Polestar 2 or equivalent) for roughly 700 euros for a month with 3,000 km included. Can you tell us, if you can, about parking in and access to ZTL areas with EV’s and if the charging situation in easy in most of Sicily? Thanks.
Hi Steve, thanks for your message. As we haven’t personally driven an EV in Sicily, we’re unfortunately not able to advise on the charging and ZTL access situations for EVs on the island. We’ve read mixed reports on forums, so would suggest contacting the rental company for further information – if they’re hiring out EVs, hopefully they can provide guidance, or point you in the right direction for this kind of info. All the very best with your planning and have a fantastic time in Sicily!
Hello! I have thoroughly enjoyed your trip reports from your visits to Sardinia and Sicily. We will be splitting our time between Sardinia and Sicily this September!
Our time in Sardinia is somewhat limited so I wonder if you could tell me: if you had to choose only two locations in Sardinia to stay ( 3 days in each) where would you choose? We LOVE beach bars at sunset, stunning scenery, boat trips, hikes, and visits to wineries. We have not booked our flights in or out of the island yet so we are flexible. Really appreciate your input!
Kind regards,
Heather
Thanks so much for the kind comments, glad you have found our posts helpful.
Picking just two locations in Sardinia is certainly a tough choice as there are so many incredible spots to choose from.
Your interests sound very similar to us, and if we had to choose just two places, and also enjoy sunset sundowners (which we most certainly do), then we would choose Cala Gonone and Alghero.
We have very fond memories of sunset drinks at the bars lining Alghero’s Bastioni city walls, and loved our time wandering the beautiful old city. There are also wineries, archaeological sites, and beaches nearby, so that seems to tick a few of your boxes.
Similarly, Cala Gonone has a good choice of restaurants and bars for a sundowner, some great hiking nearby, incredible beaches, archaeological sites close by, a wine region on the doorstep, and plenty of options to get out on the water along the Gulf of Orosei.
Hope this helps.
All the best, and happy travels.
John and Danielle
Excellent information, thank-you. I looked at self drive tours and many itineraries but I am using information gathered here to plan our own trip.
Hi David, thanks so much for your message, we’re really happy you’ve found our Sicily road trip post helpful for your trip planning! Hope you have a fantastic time exploring Sicily, it’s a wonderful island – please do let us know how it goes! ~Danielle
We are heading to Sicily late September. Cannot wait. We only have 11 days, so from your log we have made the decision that we will do one side this trip and the other side on our next trip. I like to take my time and a few rest days will be essential for me. My partner is Italian so there will be another opportunity for us. Now we have to decide which side! What would you recommend?
Hi Kim, thanks so much for your message and yay to hear you’re heading to Sicily very soon! Which side to choose is a tough question! I guess it really depends on what you want out of your first visit, but at least the pressure’s off knowing you’ll be able to visit again. I think it’s fair to say (and in our experience), the eastern side of the island is the more touristy side – you have the big ticket attractions of Taormina, Etna, Syracuse and the Baroque towns of the Val di Noto. It won’t be as busy in September as in high summer but it will still have more of bustling feel and a city focus. In the east, you’ll find a more relaxed vibe, lovely beaches, charming medieval towns, the nature of Zingaro and the Egadi islands, and the historical highlights of Segesta and Selinunte. The Valley of the Temples is also possible day trip in the south. So much to see, but you’ll absolutely enjoy it more with a focus on one region. Let us know what you decide and have a wonderful time! Happy travels!
Wow! Your Sicily itinerary is the best one I’ve read. We are going to spend two week there this Sept and your insight and tips are helping a lot with our plans.
Just wanted to thank you.
Donna
Hi Donna, thank you so much for your lovely feedback, we’re so pleased you’ve found our Sicily itinerary helpful with your planning. Have a wonderful time on your trip! All the best, Danielle & John
Hi Heather, Love your well thought out itinerary. I just initiated plans for a likely trip to Sicily in May 2025. Before making enquiries or commenting, I need to read up more of Sicily. Get back to you then.
Warm Regards,
Derrick
Thanks Derrick, happy planning!
Danielle & John
Hi,
Thanks for your nice tips.
Just want to ask you, have you rent the car directly from discoverycars?
or you just search on discoverycars for more offers and then you rent the car from the company’s website ( hertz, as eg).
if so, can you share with us the name of the company where you rent?
many thanks!
Teo
Hi Teo, thanks for your message. We personally hire directly through DiscoverCars.
Cheers, Danielle
Hi. Thanks very much for your Sicily Road Trip Guide. We are travelling there next month and the advice you gave was really helpful (and far better than the countless other guides that exist on the internet).
Best wishes
Peter
Hi Peter, thanks so much for your kind words and positive feedback, we’re really pleased you’ve found our Sicily itinerary useful in your planning. All the best for a fantastic trip!
Cheers
Danielle & John
Thank you so much for helping us find what kind of tour of Sicily suits us. We much prefer driving our rental car to see the sights as you have so suggested plus all the places to stay and see. We have about 3 weeks to spend time in Sicily where we plan to spend in a spa in Sciacca and possibly a few days in Club Med in Cefalu. This trip will be during May, hopefully not during the tourist season!
Do you know of an excellent spa with the special waters of that region?
Sincerely
Roberta and David Sherer
Hi Roberta and David, thanks so much for your kind feedback, we’re pleased we could be of help with your planning and we’re excited for your trip to Sicily! Three weeks is a lovely amount of time to have on the island, and having some time to relax in Sciacca and Cefalu sounds great.
While we packed in a lot during our own travels around Sicily, enjoying a soak in one of the island’s thermal spas is still on the bucket list!
There are several thermal spas in the region of Sciacca, including the Terme di Sciacca, the Stabilimento Termale and the Piscine Molinelli. There’s also Acqua Pia near Agrigento, and Segesta Thermal Baths. In the east, there are thermal spas at Ali Terme and Acireale. We’ve heard there are facilities at these spas, but as we haven’t visited ourselves, we would suggest checking out TripAdvisor to find out more about them (and hotels/resorts that may use the thermal waters for their inhouse spas). There are also mixed reports about whether some of the spas are currently operational (including Termini Imerese in Palermo), so we definitely suggest enquiring with your accommodation provider about the spas in the areas you’re planning to stay.
We hope you have a wonderful time in Sicily and all the best!
Cheers,
Danielle
Great tips.
My wife and I are planning a one month tour of Sicily in the spring of 2025. We would be renting a car and the cheapest offer we got was from Hertz for an electric car (a Polestar 2 or equivalent) for roughly 700 euros for a month with 3,000 km included. Can you tell us, if you can, about parking in and access to ZTL areas with EV’s and if the charging situation in easy in most of Sicily? Thanks.
Steve and Ilena
Hi Steve, thanks for your message. As we haven’t personally driven an EV in Sicily, we’re unfortunately not able to advise on the charging and ZTL access situations for EVs on the island. We’ve read mixed reports on forums, so would suggest contacting the rental company for further information – if they’re hiring out EVs, hopefully they can provide guidance, or point you in the right direction for this kind of info. All the very best with your planning and have a fantastic time in Sicily!
Hello! I have thoroughly enjoyed your trip reports from your visits to Sardinia and Sicily. We will be splitting our time between Sardinia and Sicily this September!
Our time in Sardinia is somewhat limited so I wonder if you could tell me: if you had to choose only two locations in Sardinia to stay ( 3 days in each) where would you choose? We LOVE beach bars at sunset, stunning scenery, boat trips, hikes, and visits to wineries. We have not booked our flights in or out of the island yet so we are flexible. Really appreciate your input!
Kind regards,
Heather
Hey there Heather,
Thanks so much for the kind comments, glad you have found our posts helpful.
Picking just two locations in Sardinia is certainly a tough choice as there are so many incredible spots to choose from.
Your interests sound very similar to us, and if we had to choose just two places, and also enjoy sunset sundowners (which we most certainly do), then we would choose Cala Gonone and Alghero.
We have very fond memories of sunset drinks at the bars lining Alghero’s Bastioni city walls, and loved our time wandering the beautiful old city. There are also wineries, archaeological sites, and beaches nearby, so that seems to tick a few of your boxes.
Similarly, Cala Gonone has a good choice of restaurants and bars for a sundowner, some great hiking nearby, incredible beaches, archaeological sites close by, a wine region on the doorstep, and plenty of options to get out on the water along the Gulf of Orosei.
Hope this helps.
All the best, and happy travels.
John and Danielle