Hiking The W Trek in Patagonia: A Self-Guided Itinerary [2025-26]

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You can choose your own adventure when it comes to trekking in Chile, but if you like to plan ahead, here’s our tried-and-tested 5 day/4 night, east-to-west, self-guided itinerary for hiking the W Trek in Patagonia.

Fully updated for the 2025/2026 Torres del Paine hiking season.

Torres del Paine National Park is a place so epic and otherworldly, its name is often spoken with a kind of hushed reverence.

This vast and dramatic stretch of Chilean Patagonia is home to some of the most mind-blowingly beautiful scenery on Earth, and hiking the W trek is one of the greatest ways to immerse in it.

This is Patagonian hiking at its very best, but how you trek the W trail is entirely up to you.

You can go with a guide, or do the W trek self-guided (in the warmer months anyway). You can stay in lodges along the way and enjoy a cooked meal and a warm bed. You can carry your own gear and pitch your tent in one of the designated campsites on the trail, or carry no gear and book a tent and sleeping bag at each site. You can carry all your food, or add a meal package to your booking, or do a bit of both.

The direction you travel and the time you take to hike the W is also your call. As occasional hikers with temperamental knees, we opted for the typical self-guided W trek in Patagonia itinerary of 5 days and 4 nights.

Many argue that hiking west to east, and saving the striking granite peaks of Las Torres for the last day is a fitting finale to this incredible hike.

We took the opposite view, hitting up the awe-inspiring towers on Day 1 and hiking the W trek east to west so that we could tackle the toughest legs of the trail in the first couple of days, while we still had plenty of energy.

We opted to camp but rather than carry all the gear, we arranged for a pitched tent and sleeping bags to be waiting for us each day. We packed food for most of the trek and booked a full-board meal package (dinner, breakfast and box lunch) at one of our overnight camping stays.

At the end of the day, no matter how you take on the W, you’re still trekking one of the most spectacular trails on the planet. And you’ll still get to enjoy the jaw-dropping vista of Las Torres. Twice even, if you’re keen.

A person hikes along a path towards a mountain on a self-guided itinerary for hiking the W Trek Patagonia.

Hiking the W Trek Snapshot

Location: Torres del Paine National Park, Chilean Patagonia

Nearest town: Puerto Natales, Chile

Getting to and from the park: Torres del Paine is easily accessible by bus or car from Puerto Natales.

Park entry: Park entry tickets, as well as overnight stays in the park (campsites and lodges), must be arranged before visiting the park.

Start and finish: The W Trek traverses a roughly w-shaped route through Torres del Paine National Park between Hotel Las Torres/Central sector in the park’s east and Paine Grande/Grey sectors in the west. For this itinerary, we start in the east and hike west.

Distance: appx. 74 kilometres (46 miles) one-way.

Time: This itinerary is 5 days and 4 nights.

Difficulty: Moderately difficult, with some challenging stretches and steep climbs, plus highly changeable weather. We’re occasional hikers but with some preparation and a reasonable level of fitness, we found the W Trek very do-able (even if all our muscles were screaming for days afterwards!).

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Planning for Hiking the W Trek in Patagonia

We aim to fully check and refresh this post for each annual trekking high season (October to April). Things can change without notice though, so we recommend also visiting the links below for information while you’re planning and before you go: 

  • For the latest updates on requirements for travel to Chile, visit the official ChileTravel tourism website.
  • The W Trek is in Torres del Paine National Park, which is managed by the Chilean park agency CONAF. Visit the official park website for park entry information and more.
  • When you arrive at Torres del Paine National Park and check in, you should receive an information guide with a map showing the park’s trails, services and accommodation sectors. Here’s a link to the map on the official park website.

Best Time of Year for Hiking in Torres del Paine

Patagonian weather will keep you on your toes no matter when you visit Torres del Paine National Park. Invigorating sunshine, sideways rain, exfoliating winds, even snow: be ready for everything. However, there are two distinct periods to be aware of when planning your trip.

High Season October to April

These are the warmer months in the southern hemisphere, and December to March is the busiest time of year to trek in the park, with visitation peaking over January and February. During high season, the days are longer, giving you more time on the trails.

During the trekking high season, you can choose to do a self-guided hike on the W or go with a guide.

Even though it’s trekking season, you can expect four seasons in a day so pack to suit. Heavy rain and strong winds are possible at any time. Layer up, have a rain jacket handy, wear quick-dry clothes, and bring extra socks.

If you’re planning to trek during this period, and particularly if you’re planning to visit over the peak months, be sure to book your place in the lodges or campgrounds as far in advance as possible. Torres del Paine is now one of the most popular places to trek in Chile and overnight places book up very quickly.

We hiked the W trail towards the end of March, and while sections were busy, like the path up to the Base Torres lookout and the trails out of Paine Grande (which are accessible for daytrippers as well as W and O hikers), there were stretches where we wouldn’t see more than a handful of people in hours.

That said, despite making our campsite reservations months prior to our visit, we initially struggled to align availability in the different sectors and had to change our trekking dates to suit what we were able to book.

Low Season May to September

Many people say winter is even more magical in Torres del Paine. The peaks of the Paine Massif rise above a snow-blanketed landscape and the wildlife is easier to spot, like guanaco and puma.

The park entry fee drops during the low season, and you’ll find far fewer people in the park. But temps will also be lower, daylight hours are shorter, rain is frequent and there can be snow and ice on the trails.

Some of the mountain trails are closed over this period (including the upper part of the O Circuit, which typically closes at the end of March and reopens again in November), as are most of the park lodges and services. Trails that are open have reduced access hours or may close suddenly due to weather.

Transport services also pause over this period, including buses to the park and the shuttle between Laguna Amarga Ranger Station and the Welcome Centre. The Lake Pehoé catamaran service is scaled back to just twice a month.

Most importantly, to hike in Torres del Paine during the winter season, you must have an accredited guide. This is for visitor safety and the period typically runs from May through September, though it can start and end sooner or later depending on weather – keep an eye on the official park website.

A winter trek will be a different kind of W experience in that, rather than doing an end-to-end hike along the W, guides usually lead hikers along sections of the trail each day in an out-and-back approach, returning each afternoon to one of the lodges that stay open over winter, like Refugio Paine Grande and Refugio Grey.

Guided tours can be arranged through specialist travel companies like Flashpacker Connect, or check out Torres del Paine tour agencies and social media forums for local accredited guide recommendations.

Torres del Paine weather conditions are highly changeable throughout the year and can lead to trail closures or guide requirements at any time. Always keep close tabs on the park website, weather and wind forecasts, and on-the-ground guidance.

The bottom line: No matter what time of year you visit Torres del Paine, check the official park website for the latest updates and closures.

Where to Stay Before and After the W Trek

The nearest major population centre, and the main jump-off point for a Torres del Paine trek is Puerto Natales, a low-key Patagonian town hugging the shores of the picturesque Última Esperanza Sound.

The drawcard of Torres del Paine’s trails and outdoor adventure has seen Puerto Natales develop a buzzing trekker and tourist scene.

We suggest giving yourself a couple of days in Puerto Natales before your trek to get organised, shop, hire any gear you need, and sort out transport to and from Torres del Paine if you haven’t already (see our section on ‘Getting to Torres del Paine National Park’ further on).

Just about everyone staying in Puerto Natales is out and about doing the same thing, so having extra time in town means you can stress less if you don’t find what you’re looking for in the first place you visit. 

Spending at least a day or two here after your trek is also worthwhile and we highly recommend it – you can rest your weary bones and just enjoy this charming little town. This is also the safest option if you’re lining up a bus or flight out of Puerto Natales post-trek and for whatever reason, you’re delayed on your return from the park.

A person sits on the post of a long former pier over the water in Puerto Natales, a top Patagonia travel stop.
Stunning views await in Puerto Natales, launchpad for hiking in Torres del Paine.

Getting to Puerto Natales

Despite its remote feel, Puerto Natales is reasonably well serviced by transport options. You can get there by plane, bus, car or – if you have plenty of time – a multi-day ferry.

By plane

There’s a small airport less than 10 minutes’ drive from Puerto Natales: Aeropuerto Teniente Julio Gallardo. It’s serviced by domestic flights from Santiago and Puerto Montt in Chile. A shuttle to town can be organised inside the terminal, or there are taxis waiting outside.

There’s a larger airport at Punta Arenas, Aeropuerto Internacional Presidente Carlos Ibañez del Campo, around 2.5-3 hours to the south of Puerto Natales. You can fly to this airport from Santiago, Puerto Montt and a couple of other small locations in southern Chile and Argentina (as well as the Falkland Islands, should you happen to be there!). From Punta Arenas, you would need to take a bus or hire a car to get to Puerto Natales.

Chile’s capital, Santiago, is a major hub for South American adventures and we spent quite a bit of time in this awesome city as we flew in and out for different parts of the continent.

It’s definitely worth exploring! If you find you have a day, or a couple of days there, here’s our round-up of 20 Cool Things To Do in Santiago.

By bus

We arrived in Puerto Natales on a bus from Ushuaia in Argentina via Punta Arenas. In our experience, the bus network connecting cities throughout Chile and Argentina is excellent and we used it extensively during our travels through both countries.

There are several bus companies servicing Puerto Natales. The most popular direct routes are Punta Arenas (around 3 hours), El Calafate in Argentina (5-6 hours from Puerto Natales and the launchpad for trips to the spectacular Perito Moreno glacier) and, of course, Torres del Paine National Park, which we cover below.  

Intercity buses generally arrive into and depart from Terminal Rodoviario in Puerto Natales; a 5-minute taxi ride or a 20-minute walk from Plaza de Armas Arturo Prat, the town’s main square. 

For peace of mind, we usually book our bus tickets ahead of time (just check T&Cs regarding date changes or cancellations). If you’re travelling in high season, we definitely recommend booking ahead to ensure you secure a seat. Busbud is a useful platform for searching, comparing and booking bus services in this region.

By car

Cars can be hired at the airport in Punta Arenas and there are several car hire companies in Puerto Natales. We personally used buses and taxis to get around with no trouble, but if you want the flexibility of a rental car during your stay, we use DiscoverCars when we travel as they let you compare rates, car types and conditions to find the best deal to suit you.

By multi-day ferry

For the hardy souls with lots of time and flexibility up their fleece sleeve, Navimag runs a ferry between Puerto Montt and Puerto Natales, along the Chilean fjords. Depending on the direction, the journey can take three or four days.

Accommodation in Puerto Natales

Puerto Natales isn’t a big place, but you’ll find plenty of budget hostels and mid-range stays, as well as some beautiful luxury accommodations in and around the town.  

We stayed at the charming, centrally-located Hotel Aquaterra both before and after our trek. This is a great mid-range option, clean and cosy, and we really liked our stay here. They also stored our luggage for us while we were on the trail (as will most stays, just ask in advance). 

Here are some other highly-rated suggestions, all of them centrally located in Puerto Natales:

  • Good value: Hostal America en Puerto Natales – Clean and comfortable hostel | friendly staff | close to bus station
  • Upmarket hostel: Hostal Boutique Factoria Patagonia – Stylish, modern hostel | very clean, comfy rooms for 2 as well as bunk rooms for 4 or 6 | private and shared bathrooms
  • Mid-range: Hotel Vendaval Great location | rooftop bar with water views | highly-rated staff | comfy beds
  • Spend a bit more: Vinnhaus – Beautiful, stylish boutique hotel | warm and welcoming staff | great locaiton in centre of town.

For more accommodation options in Puerto Natales, take a look at Booking.com. Or, if you’re after something more in the budget range, you’ll find a good range of options through Hostelworld.

Getting to Torres del Paine National Park

We based ourselves in Puerto Natales – the nearest town to Torres del Paine National Park – before and after our trek, and most trekkers do the same. From Puerto Natales, it’s an easy journey by road to and from the park.

Bus tickets to and from the park

Several bus companies make the run between Puerto Natales and Torres del Paine, and it takes around 2 hours. You can compare services and prices and buy bus tickets online here.

Tickets can also be purchased at the company counters at the Terminal Rodoviario bus station in Puerto Natales, or arranged through your hotel or hostel.

If you plan to buy your tickets when you get to Puerto Natales, aim to do so as soon as you can after getting to town. We travelled to Puerto Natales by bus so when we arrived at the bus station, we sorted out our tickets to Torres del Paine while we were there.

If you’re travelling by bus to and from Torres del Paine National Park, we recommend organising your bus tickets well in advance. Don’t leave this until the day you head to the park or you may find the buses already full. 

Buses stop at a number of places throughout Torres del Paine National Park, and it’s important to note that your own bus drop-off and pick-up points in the park may vary depending on your final W trail itinerary. We recommend that you buy your bus tickets only once you have your final trekking itinerary and accommodation in place.

If you follow this itinerary and trek from east to west, you’ll start with the bus from Puerto Natales to the Laguna Amarga Entrance and Ranger Station. After your trek, you’ll board the bus at Pudeto for the return journey to Puerto Natales (this follows a catamaran ride across Lake Pehoé from Paine Grande to Pudeto – more on this further on). Vice versa if you’re hiking the W from west to east.  

To ensure you’re on the trail in good time (and in line with our self-guided W Trek in Patagonia itinerary), we recommend booking one of the earliest buses out of Puerto Natales on Day 1. 

Driving to the park

You can drive to Torres del Paine and leave your car in the carpark at the Welcome Centre on the eastern side of the park near the trailhead.

Campervans and motorhomes can only be parked at the campgrounds at Serrano and Pehoé in the south of the park or Laguna Azul to the east.

Ferry between Pudeto and Paine Grande Sector

Once in the park, many hikers will take a ferry across Lake Pehoé, either from Paine Grande to Pudeto (if hiking east to west, as we do in this itinerary), or vice versa if hiking west to east. We talk about this catamaran service, including tickets and boat schedules, on Day 5 of our itinerary below.

A person hikes on the rocky trail between a lake and a mountain on the W Hike Patagonia.

Entry to Torres del Paine National Park

Entry to Torres del Paine National Park is ticketed and there are capacity limits in the mountain lodges and campgrounds. This is for the long-term care and protection of this wild and remote place, and for the safety of visitors to the park. So whether you’re planning to hike the W, trek the O Circuit, or visit just for the day, you will need a ticket to get into the park.

You must buy your entrance ticket for Torres del Paine National Park in advance of your visit to the park. Visit Chile’s official National Park Passes website to buy your park entry ticket

Tech Tip: We’ve found the park passes website to be a bit finicky. If you’re finding dates aren’t showing properly, try opening the website in private or incognito mode.

Entry fees vary depending on whether you are Chilean or international, as well as your age, and whether you intend to stay in the park up to, or more than, three days.

At last check, during trekking high season (October through April), international adults 18 and over will pay CLP$32,400 (around USD$35) for up to three days in the park, and CLP$46,200 (around USD$50) for more than three days.

You’ll receive a QR code when you buy your ticket. Download the ticket to your phone before you head to the park (there’s no mobile/cell service at the park). We carried a printed copy just in case. Bring your passport/ID as well to present along with your ticket when you check in at the park.

A tall signpost with a mountain behind points to multiple places for those hiking in Torres del Paine.
A waymarker backed by peaks near the trailhead sets the scene for hiking in Torres del Paine.

Booking Lodges and Camping on the W Trek in Patagonia

There are various ways to stay overnight on the W Trek (and the O Circuit) in Torres del Paine National Park, but whether you’re planning a lodge stay, hiring camping equipment, or camping with all your own gear, you’ll need advance reservations to do so.

Overnight reservations are mandatory for Torres del Paine and must be booked in advance. You cannot book lodges or camping once you’re at the park, or camp outside the designated camping zones.

You’ll also need to have evidence of your overnight reservations as you may be asked to show proof at any time by a park ranger or when passing through checkpoints. Download this information to your phone before you go as you won’t have reception in the park. We printed our reservation confirmations and carried these with us. 

Also bring your passport/ID and PDI Tourist Card (the slip of paper you receive when you arrive in Chile), as you’ll need to show these when you check-in to your stays.

With trekking in Torres del Paine becoming ever more popular, accommodation capped, and advance booking necessary, sorting out campsites or lodge accommodation is – in our experience, at least – probably the trickiest part of planning a self-guided W Trek itinerary. 

For this reason, we recommend booking your overnight stays as far in advance as possible, preferably as soon as bookings open for the season (for the 2025/26 season, bookings opened around April).  

It also pays to be flexible about where you stay, as you may find you need to rework your trekking dates and approach based on what’s available. 

Our final W trail hiking itinerary was the direct result of where and when we could get an overnight booking.

Yellow tents cluster in front of trees with a mountain in the background on the W Trek Torres del Paine.
Whether you opt for camping or a lodge stay for your W Trek itinerary, you’ll be wrapping up your days in epic surroundings (this is Grey).

How to book your overnight stays in the park

There are six accommodation sectors along the W trail – Central, Chileno, Cuernos, Francés, Paine Grande and Grey. All of the sectors except Chileno have lodges (refugios) with dorms. Cuernos also has private cabins. All of them have campgrounds.

You can only stay overnight in the park within these designated sectors.

Broadly speaking, the sectors in the east of the park are operated by Las Torres Patagonia. Those in the west are managed by Vertice. 

You can book campsites and refugio dorm beds directly with them, however we know from experience that trying to align dates and availability and book spots for a workable W circuit itinerary across multiple websites can be complicated and time-consuming. Another reason to plan and book as far ahead as possible.

There used to be a couple of free campgrounds in the park managed by CONAF, but these campgrounds have been closed for a long time now.

If you’re keen to go self-guided on the W, but you’d like some help navigating and arranging the logistics of your trek, including booking all your accommodation, along with transport, entry fees, meals, and camping gear if needed, check out the options below with Flashpacker Connect – Patagonia specialists and one-stop-shop for organising treks in Torres del Paine and exploring the broader region.

They have a range of all-inclusive, self-guided trekking packages, with all the operational stuff sorted for you, including:

Alternatively, you can join an expert mountain guide and a small group for a guided 5-day W Trek, winding up your hiking adventure with a walk on Grey Glacier or a kayak on Grey Lake, followed by a boat trip across Lake Grey on the return to Puerto Natales.

Or, take things up a level and stay at the unique EcoCamp Patagonia (the world’s first sustainable geodesic dome hotel), while exploring the W with a trekking guide on this 5-Day EcoDome – Torres del Paine W Trek.

A group of people hike along a trail above a valley with a river through it on the Torres del Paine W Trek.

Packing for the W Trek

Any hike, but especially a multi-day hike, can quickly lose its appeal if you’re carrying too much weight in your pack; something we can personally attest to.

So we strongly recommend packing light and only carrying the clothes, gear and food you need for the trek – just be sure to pack for all seasons and have spare dry gear in reserve. We cover the clothes and accessories that we packed in the FAQ at the end of this post.

Sorting out food and trekking gear before your hike

You can find most of what you need to buy or rent in Puerto Natales for hiking into the surrounding landscapes, from tents, sleeping bags, camping stoves and hiking poles, to dried fruit and nuts for your trail mix.

That said, this is a small and relatively remote town and the local prices reflect it. We’re told there’s more choice and better prices at the supermarkets and shops in Punta Arenas, so if you’re coming from or via Punta Arenas, you might consider doing your trek shopping while in that town.

We’ve also read reports that from time to time it hasn’t been so easy to find dehydrated meals in Puerto Natales. If you’re planning your menu around these, you might think about sourcing them elsewhere.

It’s important to know that Chile has stringent rules around what foods you can and can’t bring into the country (fresh foods, fruits, honey, etc are a no-no). Be sure to declare any foodstuffs you do bring in and plan on buying most of what you need for trek meals and snacks once you’re in the country.

We had a tight meal plan for our spin on the W, but with hindsight, we would swap out some of the bulkier items we packed for lighter, more compact foods and dehydrated meals.

If you don’t want to carry food on the trek, you can pre-book meals when you arrange your stays in the park or buy snacks and pizzas along the way – head to our FAQ for more on this.

Bags of food laid out on a floor ready for packing ahead of our W trek self guided trip.

Trekking Tip: The night before your trek, organise any food you’re carrying into daily packages of brekkie, lunch and dinner.

Pre-bundling your meals saves scrabbling around in your pack for particular items on the trail, plus you’ll then have leftover bags to pack your rubbish into. Pack all the gear you’ll be taking with you in drybags inside your backpack.

While you’re on the trail, keep your food well sealed and packed away when you’re not using it, and hang it off the ground if you’re camping so it doesn’t attract local critters.

Leave excess luggage in storage

If you’re travelling longer term and have more stuff with you – which was our situation – leave it in storage at your hotel. Your back will thank you for it. Most hotels will store your luggage while you trek; contact your stay beforehand to confirm.

We’ve learned there are also paid luggage storage facilities at the Central and Paine Grande sectors in the park. Check ahead if you’re planning to leave luggage at these places, and bring padlocks for your bags.

Our 5 Day/4 Night Self-Guided W Trek Itinerary

A person stands above a lake reflecting the sky in the early morning while hiking Torres del Paine.

Day 1: Puerto Natales to Chileno Sector via Base Torres Lookout

Total hiking distance: appx. 13.8 km (8.5 miles)
Total hiking time: appx. 8 hours
Overnight:
Chileno Sector

Bus from Puerto Natales to Laguna Amarga Entrance & Ranger Station

Hopefully you’ve secured your seat on one of the earliest buses out of Puerto Natales this morning (see our section above on sorting out bus tickets in advance).

Buses making the run to Torres del Paine National Park generally depart from Terminal Rodoviario (Google Map) in town. 

Find your bus and load your pack, then kick back until it’s time to go. It’s around 2 hours to the Laguna Amarga Entrance and Ranger Station, the eastern gateway to Torres del Paine National Park. So settle in, this is a perfect excuse to grab some extra sleep before starting the hike. 

Having said that, you may get a cracker sunrise like we did, and once it’s light, the scenery along the way is beautiful – an exciting taster of what’s to come. 

When you arrive at the Laguna Amarga Ranger Station, have your pre-purchased and pre-downloaded park entry ticket ready to go on your mobile phone, or have a printout. Here, you’ll check in and receive information about visiting the park, its rules and regulations. There’s a bathroom here if you need it.

Don’t forget to buy and download your entrance ticket for Torres del Paine before you head to the park.

Head to Chile’s official National Park Passes website for more information (try opening the website in private or incognito mode if it’s not showing dates properly).

At the Laguna Amarga Ranger Station, hikers split into two groups: those starting their journey here at the eastern end of the park, and those heading to the western starting point at Paine Grande.

Everyone gets off the bus here to check in, but if you’re starting your trek in the west you’ll re-board the bus after registering for a further ride to Pudeto, where you’ll board the catamaran across Lake Pehoé to Paine Grande.

Silhouette of people looking through bus windows at a pink dawn sky.
Our early morning bus trip from Puerto Natales to Torres del Paine was accompanied by a stellar sunrise.

Shuttle from Laguna Amarga Ranger Station to Welcome Centre

If, like us, you’re hiking the W from east to west, your next step after checking in at the park is to jump aboard one of the shuttle buses from Laguna Amarga Ranger Station to the Welcome Centre and the eastern trailhead for the trek.

The shuttles are first come, first serve but there are a number of them and they meet up with arriving buses from Puerto Natales. If you’re staying at Hotel Las Torres, we understand the shuttle is free, for but everyone else, it’s around CLP$4,000 or USD$5 per person, which is paid in cash as you board. We paid in Chilean pesos. 

Alternatively, you could start your hike here from the Laguna Amarga entrance. The shuttle will just spare you a long and dusty walk along the gravel road, and a further 7 kilometres of hiking on top of what is already a big hiking day.

Walk from Welcome Centre to Trailhead

The shuttle will drop you off at the Welcome Centre, which is run by Las Torres Patagonia. There’s an info desk, cafeteria, and a small outdoor gear shop. There’s a bathroom here too; a good chance to go before setting off into the mountains.

The Welcome Centre is also within pack-tossing distance of the Central sector, which is managed by Las Torres Patagonia. Within this zone are the Central Mountain Stay lodge, Central Camp, and the upmarket Hotel Las Torres. Also nearby are the dome lodgings of EcoCamp Patagonia.

From the Welcome Centre, it’s a flat walk of around 15 to 20 minutes along the road to the trailhead (Google Map) in front of Hotel Las Torres, with mountain views teasing what lies ahead.

Trekking signs in the foreground with a large, snow-capped mountain in the background.
This way to mind-blowing views! En route to the eastern trailhead for hiking Torres del Paine.

Trekking Tip: We booked our first night’s accommodation at Chileno Camp, which is en route to the highlight of Day 1 – the towering granite peaks of Las Torres. We’ll be checking in at Chileno sector on the way and dropping off our big pack ahead of the steep and challenging climb to the Base Torres lookout.

If, however, you’ve booked your first night at Central Mountain Stay, Central Camp or Hotel Las Torres, then we’d suggest dropping off your pack first, and setting out on today’s hike to Base Torres with a lighter load.

1st Leg: Trailhead near Hotel Las Torres to Chileno Sector
(appx. 
5km / 3.1 miles, around 2 hours)

Let’s get trekking! We’re at the trailhead and officially underway on the W trail around 10.30am and from the word go, the views are eye-popping. After a flat kilometre or so, the path starts to climb: get used to it, it’s pretty much uphill from here.

The hike is moderately steep in some spots, until about a kilometre (0.6 miles) or so from Chileno sector, where the trail flattens out a little before descending into the campground.

Despite feeling like our hearts might explode for much of this first stretch, we cover the distance in around two muscle-busting hours, with frequent stops to take in the views, rehydrate, and give our racing pulses a break.

Views above a valley with a river running through it and the W trail winding away in the distance.
The views on the W trail to Chileno Camp and Base Torres will regularly stop you in your tracks.

Trekking Tip: The trail from the Welcome Centre/Hotel Las Torres to the Base Torres lookout is a very popular day hike as well as being part of the W trail, so this is one of the busiest stretches on the multi-day hike.

One option for getting on this leg of the trail earlier today is to head to Torres del Paine a night early, stay at Central sector or Hotel Las Torres, and set out to Base Torres first thing today. That way, you’ll have a couple of hours’ head start on the daytrippers and can spend longer at the top before heading back down to Chileno Camp.

We haul into Chileno Camp around 12.30pm. This camping-only sector is operated by Las Torres Patagonia, and is the closest camp you can stay at to the famous Base Torres hike and lookout.

(There used to be a CONAF-managed campground near the foot of the Base Torres rise but this has been closed for years; there’s a ranger station there now.)

The riverside setting at Chileno is truly stunning and the sheer peaks of the three granite towers – our highlight goal today – rise tantalisingly above the forested mountains ahead.

The campground itself is a nice set-up of tiered platforms and raised tents among the trees. There are shared bathrooms with hot showers, and a restaurant and bar with big windows, plus an outdoor terrace for soaking up the epic views.

Check-in for the camping sites is from 3pm. Our tent is ready for us when we arrive at Chileno though, so we check-in, drop our big pack in our tent, pack the daypack with valuables, snacks, water bottles and camera, eat the lunch we prepared last night, and set out for the Base Torres lookout around 1.30pm.

Timings here may vary depending on your check-in. If you can’t check-in early, we’ve read that there’s an area near the restaurant where trekkers leave their packs in a pile (if you’ve done this and have more insights, let us know in the comments!)

Trekking Tip: If you don’t intend to hike up to the Base Torres lookout today, then you don’t need to stick to such a tight schedule this morning. You could take a slightly later bus from Puerto Natales, or spend more time at the Welcome Centre before setting out for Chileno Camp.

A river winds through the foreground and peaks rise in the background at Chileno on our self-guided W trek.
Chileno’s serene riverside setting teases glimpses of Las Torres in the distance.

2nd Leg: Chileno Sector to Base Torres Lookout
(appx. 4.4km / 2.7 miles, around 2 hours)

This is without doubt today’s toughest leg, so there’s a huge bonus in not having to tote your full pack up the mountain.

From Chileno, you’ll hike for around 3 kilometres (1.9 miles) or so along a meandering path through pretty woodland, across rushing rivers, and through a wonderfully moody stretch of fallen forest that we dub the ‘tree cemetery’. It’s a lovely, moderate walk, and we have no sense of what’s ahead when we reach the sign that tells us ’45 minutes to Mirador Las Torres’.

My notes from this point in our trek simply state: ‘hiking hell starteth here’. A touch dramatic maybe, but as irregular hikers, this was probably the hardest section of the entire W Trek for us. Maybe you’ll breeze through it, just be ready for it.

Shortly after the sign, the climb to Las Torres begins in earnest. It’s a gritty, rocky terrain of steep, gravelly inclines and large boulders. The panoramas as you climb are absolutely breathtaking, but so is the hike itself.

There are moments while we’re in the throes of it, looking up and spotting the tiny trekkers far above, that this stretch feels like it will never end.

The three towers of Las Torres: a showcase site on the Torres del Paine circuit is Las Torres.
Final few steps to the Base Torres lookout – for us, this proves the toughest leg of our W Trek itinerary.

It does end though, about an hour later, and the scene that awaits as we round a final boulder and face the three towering granite pillars of Torre d’Agostini, Torre Central and Torre Monzino makes every single breath-wrenching step worth it.

It’s buzzing at the top: hikers drape the rocks surrounding the glacier lake; a bushy-tailed Patagonian fox weaves its way between the boulders; there’s even a guy getting his hair cut at the water’s edge (one hairdresser’s quirky approach to memorialising his travels while promoting his business).

We spend some time taking pics before settling onto a boulder of our own to simply take in this awe-inspiring scene. Aim to spend around an hour at the Base Torres lookout.

A person sits on a boulder at the edge of a lake looking at the three peaks of Las Torres.
The towering peaks of Las Torres are a highlight of a Torres del Paine trek.

3rd Leg: Return from Base Torres Lookout to Chileno Sector
(appx. 4.4km / 2.7 miles, around 2 hours)

The journey back down from Base Torres is in some respects even more challenging than the climb up. The constant down is tough on knees and gravel stretches make the going slippery. We’re beyond grateful for our hiking poles, though we both still manage to pull off some memorable butt slides.

Trekking Tip: Hiking poles made all the difference for us when we were trekking in Patagonia. We carried one each, which was ideal as it left us both with a hand free to grab branches and rocks, haul each other up and down, and catch our fall when we slipped. Which was often.

It takes us around two hours to get back to Chileno. We have time to shower, buy a couple of well-earned beers and watch the sunset burn the tips of the towers molten gold.

It was cloudy the entire time we were up at the base of the towers, so watching them all beautifully backlit now is a bit of a kicker, but if there’s one thing you’ll learn quickly hiking the W Patagonia, it’s that the weather doesn’t give a rats what you think.

It’s not permitted to use cooking stoves in the Chileno sector, so we’ve opted for the full-board meal package here, which includes dinner tonight, breakfast tomorrow and a box lunch to take with us.

Later in the evening, we join a host of other hikers in the restaurant for a surprisingly tasty and filling three-course meal full of protein and carbs.  

We’re absolutely wrecked by the end of dinner, and we’re tucked up in our sleeping bags by 9.30pm. 

Morning sun blasts onto the distant Las Torres peaks in Torres del Paine.

Hiking to the Base Torres Lookout for sunrise

When we originally planned our itinerary for hiking the W, we had every intention of doing a second trek to the Base Torres lookout for sunrise on Day 2.

Apart from the magic of watching the sun light up the granite tors (if the weather plays ball), there are far fewer people around at this time of day.

In late March though, this would have entailed getting back on the track up the mountain by 5.30am. As we climbed into our sleeping bags that first night though, we decided to pull the pin: we were just too tired, and we were also a little wary of making the tricky climb again in the low dawn light.

It was a tough call at the time, and it didn’t help when we emerged the next morning to see the stone towers erupting with golden light above the silhouetted foreground. As we watched though, the clouds rolled in and soon enough the peaks were shrouded in mist.

There’s no accounting for Patagonian weather, or how your body may feel after a long day of hiking. The best you can do is plan, and be flexible on the day.

Fact: While people do make the hike up to Base Torres for sunrise, Torres del Paine park regulations actually prohibit hiking in the park when it’s dark, for visitor safety. There are opening and closing hours for all trail legs of the W and O, which can be found in the park map brochure.

Day 2: Chileno Sector to Francés Sector

Total hiking distance: appx. 18km / 11.2 miles
Total hiking time: appx. 6 hours 45 minutes
Overnight:
Francés Sector

Sunrise is around 8am when we do the W trek in late March, and as we haven’t made the dawn hike to the Base Torres lookout, we enjoy a more leisurely start to the morning on Day 2. 

As breakfast is part of our full-board package at Chileno Camp, we pack up our gear and head to the dining room at 8.30am for a hearty kickstart to the day.

Trekking Tip: If you decide to do the hike up to the Base Torres lookout for sunrise, factor in around 5 hours extra this morning and adjust the timings for today’s next legs accordingly.

1st Leg: Chileno Sector to Los Cuernos Sector
(appx. 
15km / 9.3 miles, around 4.5 hours)

We’re on the trail by 9.15am, heading back towards Hotel Las Torres. We won’t be going all the way to the hotel though as there’s a shortcut off to the right around half-an-hour after leaving Chileno.

The shortcut is signposted and takes you along a mostly downward sloping path surrounded by undulating hills and lake views.

A hiker with a pack walks along a trail with grassy hills and lake views on the W trail Patagonia.
Serene scenes mark the route from Chileno to Cuernos on Day 2 of our self-guided W Trek Patagonia.

We reach the end of the shortcut and rejoin the main W route around 11am.

At some point after this though, we suddenly find ourselves in what feels like the Patagonian Swamps of Mordor and we start to wonder whether we’ve veered off onto a secondary trail by mistake.

We can still glimpse the Nordernskjöld Lake off to left, and we know the official trail travels alongside it. To this day, we’re unsure if we did actually go off piste (though the number of bootprints in the mud suggests not).

Soon enough we seem to be back on track, just a little muddier for the experience (and even more grateful for our depth-guage hiking poles).

Trekking Tip: While signage is generally very good across the park and trails are mostly obvious, this is the one brief stretch that made us wish we’d had an app like AllTrails where you can download offline trail maps and navigate with GPS, even without a phone signal. We do this as a matter of course now.

A person tests a muddy patch with a hiking pole while hiking in Torres del Paine.
Navigating a particularly muddy patch on the way to the Cuernos sector.

The next stretch travels up and down through very pretty lakeside country, with the occasional steep section, before passing down towards Cuernos. We arrive in the Cuernos sector around 1.45pm.

This is a really beautiful area and while we’re not staying at Cuernos this time around, we’ve made a note to stay here next time. There’s dorm accommodation in the Cuernos lodge, a campground, and a handful of cabins nearby. 

You could stop at any point along the stretch to Cuernos for a lunch break; we stop just past the lodge and find a nice rock with a view. As we opted for the full-board meal package at Chileno yesterday, we’ve been provided with a box lunch today. 

We chill for around 45 minutes and then set off around 2.30pm for Francés sector, where we’ll be staying tonight.

A swing bridge crosses a river on the W Trek Patagonia.
Crossing one of several suspension bridges on the W Trail.

2nd Leg: Cuernos Sector to Francés Sector
(appx. 3km / 1.9 miles, around 1.5 hours)

The trail to the Francés sector is up and down and rubbly, with some steep sections, and a pretty pebbly beach crossing.

Today’s walk has been positively sedate compared to yesterday’s heart-starter climbs, but never fear, a leg-burning rise awaits just before the descent into Francés. We arrive at Francés sector around 4.00pm.

The Francés sector is run by Las Torres Patagonia and spreads over a hillside. There are dorm beds in quirky dome-capped huts while further up the hill, tents cluster between the trees. In this zone, you can book fully equipped, semi-equipped, or bring-your-own-gear campsites.

There’s a good shower and toilet block a short walk from the campground. There’s also a small cooking shelter, a restaurant and a couple of small stores with basic amenities. 

By 5.15pm we’re checked in and set up in our pre-booked tent. We’re cooking our own food tonight. As with all of the lodges and campgrounds, camp stoves can only be used in the designated cooking area at Francés.  

Sunset is close to 8pm in late March, and having made it through our second day on the W trail, we’re zipped up in our sleeping bags soon after.

Clouds reflect off a lake with trees in the foreground on the Torres del Paine trek.
Late afternoon views over the mirror-still Lake Nordenskjöld from Francés sector.

Day 3: Francés Sector to Paine Grande Sector via Francés Valley

Total hiking distance: appx. 20.3km / 12.6 miles
Total hiking time: appx. 9 hours
Overnight:
Paine Grande Sector

Despite our fatigue, neither of us sleeps particularly well on our second night and we’re both groggy when the alarm goes off at 7am on Day 3.

Our restlessness is partly due to the strange soundtrack that has accompanied us throughout the night: sharp cracking sounds like distant shot gun blasts and deep, thunderous rumbles.

It’s not until we set out on the trail through the Francés Valley today though, that the source of the unnerving noises becomes obvious.

On this itinerary, today is the longest day hiking the W, and based on our experience, we recommend getting on the trail by 8am at the latest to maximise your time in the Francés Valley. We departed later when we trekked, so we’ve adjusted the timings below to suit an earlier start.  

1st Leg: Francés Sector to Italiano Ranger Station
(appx. 2km / 1.2 miles, around 30 minutes)

The first leg this morning is a rejuvenating, 30-minute leg-stretcher to Italiano Ranger Station. Aim to pack up and set out from camp by 8am. 

There’s a ranger at the Italiano Ranger Station when we arrive. He points to some racks opposite the office building; this is where we opt to leave our big backpack ahead of the challenging hike to the Francés and Britanico lookouts (we understand there’s now a shelter at Italiano where hikers can leave their packs).

We sort our valuables and lunch into the smaller daypack, make sure the big pack is locked, and get going again. Look to be back on the trail by 8.45am

2nd Leg: Italiano Ranger Station to Británico Lookout
(appx. 5.4km / 3.4 miles, around 3 hours)

The first kilometre (0.6 miles) out of Italiano is a flat trail through pleasant forest, after which the track starts to climb steeply through a rocky, rubbly stretch.

The scenery is seriously beautiful, serving up views of the ironically named Paine Grande Hill – 3,050 metres above sea level – and the Francés glacier that clings to it. This is the source of the crackshots and grumbles we’ve been hearing, as the hanging ice shifts, melts and avalanches down the mountain.

Soon enough, you’ll reach the Francés lookout, a mirador offering spectacular panoramas over the ‘hill’ and its glacier. This is the perfect spot for a short break and a snack, as the next stretch is also tough.

View of a mountain with a glacier at Francés Lookout on the W trek itinerary.
Epic views from the Francés lookout on Day 3 of our self-guided W Trek Patagonia.

From here, the trail to the Británico lookout is a challenging, rubble-strewn boulder dash with lots of climbing.

A flat, rocky clearance scattered with the parched white trunks of dead trees and overshadowed by the jaw-dropping Cuernos massif, marks the final stretch before a steep, 10-minute climb to the mirador itself.

Looking towards mountains rising above forest with tree stumps and rubble in the foreground in Torres del Paine National Park.
The Cuernos mountain range rises above Francés Valley en route to Británico lookout.

Summitting the boulders of the Británico lookout around three hours after setting out, we cast our eyes over what will become our favourite panorama of this epic journey: the vast and spectacular Francés Valley.

Find a rock to perch on and settle in for lunch with this magnificent scene at your feet.

We’ve come a long way, but there’s still a huge day of hiking the W ahead. To our eternal regret, we’re only able to linger here for half an hour as we left camp too late this morning.

That’s why we recommend getting on the trail no later than 8am today – trust us, you’ll want as much time at Británico as possible and by arriving around 11.45am, you’ll have close to an hour here.

We’ve promised ourselves that next time, we’ll spend an extra day in this valley so we can take in this view at our leisure. For us, this remains one of the most breathtaking vistas we’ve come across in all our world travels.

Trekking Tip: Get on the trail by 8am at latest this morning so you can hang out for at least an hour at the Britanico lookout. Better yet, add a day to your trek and give that whole day to the Francés Valley (staying in Cuernos one night and Frances the next or vice versa).

A mountain edges a forest-blanketed valley on the W Trek.
The spectacular Francés Valley vista from the Britanico lookout: our favourite scene on the W Trek in Torres del Paine.

3rd Leg: Return from Británico Lookout to Italiano Ranger Station
(appx. 5.4km / 3.4 miles, around 2 hours)

Aim to set off back down the trail to Italiano around 12.45pm.

We find this a knee-buckling downward journey and our legs are screaming by the time we reach our packs back at the Italiano Ranger Station just over two hours later. 

Once we’ve retrieved our big pack (now four-deep in a giant bag pile) and stopped for a quick breather, we set out for the Paine Grande sector, starting with a bridge crossing out of Italiano. It’s around 3pm by this stage

A person crosses a suspension bridge over a river while hiking the W.
The trail from Italiano Ranger Station to Paine Grande is via a suspension bridge over a rishing river.

4th Leg: Italiano Ranger Station to Paine Grande Sector
(appx. 7.5km / 4.6 miles, around 2.5 hours)

The final stretch of the W trail today is a journey of around 7.5 kilometres (4.6 miles) and it’s mostly flat with some sloping ups and downs.

As you travel out of the valley and along the raised walkway then the trail past Sköttsberg Lake, remember to turn around often and take in the mountain scene back the other way: it is immense.

A person stands in the foreground on a wooden track with a huge mountain rising in the background on the W hike Patagonia.
Don’t forget to stop and look behind you while you’re hiking the W: here, the striking mountains of the Cuernos range rise behind us en route to Paine Grande.

After some more steady rises and a long stretch of walking through an open, exposed area of ground-hugging vegetation (winds can get big through here), we spy the milky blue waters of Lake Pehoé and make our final descent into the Paine Grande sector around 5.30pm.

By this stage, we’re seriously sore and tired and very ready for a beer from the lodge bar, which is the first thing we do once we’ve checked in and sorted out our tent.

The Paine Grande sector, which is managed by Vertice, is a large and bustling zone where park visitors converge: those starting the W or the O in the west, those already on the W or O coming south from Grey sector, hikers on the W arriving from the east, as well as daytrippers and short stay visitors in the park.

There’s a large lodge here with dorms, a restaurant and bar, as well as a mini-market and café.

The camping area has sections for campers carrying their own gear, and those like us who have pre-booked a tent and sleeping bag. A wooden walkway links the campgrounds with the lodge, the campers’ kitchen and shared bathrooms.

There’s a good-sized cooking shelter, which is heaving with trekkers when we make our way there to make dinner around 7pm. 

The camp shower and toilet facilities here are basic. We recommend getting your ablutions out of the way while everyone else is cooking dinner and before the post-meal rush. 

We’re tucked up in our tent just as a light rain begins to fall around 8.30pm. 

Red and yellow tents in a campground with a mountain in the background at Paine Grande in Torres del Paine.
The grassy campground at Paine Grande is linked by a boardwalk.

Day 4: Paine Grande Sector to Grey Sector 

Total hiking distance: appx. 11km / 6.8 miles
Total hiking time: appx. 3 hours 45 minutes
Overnight:
Grey Sector

Today is our shortest day so far on the W trail, so we decide to set out a little later as we’re definitely starting to feel the past three days’ hiking, and a strange kind of exhilarated fatigue. 

We’re up at 8am with plans to be on the trail by 9am. However the banshee-like warning screeches of a Patagonian fox followed by the thrilling appearance of a large, tawny-coloured puma on the hill behind the camp have us – and everyone else – lingering for a while in hushed awe, until the sleek big cat disappears around a bend into the next valley. Which happens to be the same valley we’re about to trek into. 

After checking in at the ranger station for advice on what to do if we see the puma again, we set off through the narrow, pretty dell at around 10am. We’re both relieved (and maybe a touch disappointed) to find no further sign of our feline friend.

The big cats of Patagonia

Don’t let the thought of pumas roaming the forests of Torres del Paine put you off trekking there.

The fact is, these magnificent creatures are extremely shy and actively avoid humans. Encountering a puma is incredibly rare. Spotting one near camp as we did is apparently almost unheard of.

However, it’s important to be across what to do and how to act if you do come across a puma. You’ll find advice on this in the map brochure that you receive when you check-in for your Torres del Paine trek.

If the chance of seeing a puma in the Patagonian wilds is up there on your bucket list though, check out this puma tracking day trip out of Puerto Natales.

The valley walk out of Paine Grande is flat at first but soon begins to climb, and continues to serve up steady inclines followed by some steep descents into Grey sector.

The scenery on this leg is still epic, but in a different way to the high drama mountainscapes of the last couple of days. Grey Lake is flat and still on the day we hike the trail, and dotted with blueish lumps of ice from the vast Grey Glacier at its head.

About halfway along this leg, the rocky Grey Lookout reveals the first glimpses of this immense glacier: a sea of ice six kilometres (3.7 miles) wide and 30 metres (98 feet) high in places.

A person looks out lake towards a glacier on the W Trek in Torres del Paine.
Epic views towards the sweeping ice field of Grey Glacier from the Grey lookout.

We arrive at Grey Refuge and Camping around 1.45pm, a journey of 3 hours and 45 minutes, with plenty of photo and snack stops along the way.

This zone is also managed by Vertice. The lodge has a lovely bar and lounge area in addition to its dorms, and the campground is overlooked by the stunning peaks of the Cordon Olguín.

By the time we arrive, the clouds have cleared and the mountains glint in the sun. As we’re too early to check-in, we drop our packs, enjoy lunch with mountain views, then roll out our mats and nap in the sun.

After getting our tent sorted, we hike to a rocky bluff jutting out into Lake Grey just 15 minutes from the Grey campsite. The views towards the glacier’s terminus are gorgeous and we spend time here just soaking up the scene.

Tents cluster on grass beneath a high mountain range in Torres del Paine.
Deep blue skies and sun-brushed mountains welcome us at the Grey campground.

If you’ve made good time and have the energy, there are some activities you might consider this afternoon that bring you much closer to the glacier, like this 2.5-hour kayak trip on Lake Grey and this 5-hour ice hike on the glacier itself.

Both tours get great reviews and depart from the Bigfoot Patagonia base camp around 15 minutes’ walk from the Grey campground. These weren’t on our radar when we hiked the W and we’re kicking ourselves as they sound amazing!

Another option is to get back out on the trail and head north of Grey sector for a hike to one or both of the suspension bridges en route to Paso Ranger Station.

Both serve up spectacular views over the glacier and surrounding landscape. The first bridge is around 30 minutes from Grey sector and the second bridge is about an hour beyond the first (so to do both would be a minimum 3-hour round-trip from Grey).

Trekking Tip: Leaving Paine Grande at 10am worked well for us, but if you do want to do one of the above activities today, consider starting out earlier so you aren’t pushed for time on the trail.

Another option is to do an activity tomorrow morning and then either hike back to Paine Grande (ensuring you have plenty of time to get there for the evening catamaran to Pudeto), or skip the return leg to Paine Grande and take an entirely different route back to Puerto Natales – we talk about this further on.

Grey Glacier marks the western tip of the W trail in Torres del Paine National Park.
Take in the views from the Glacier Grey lookout, the western tip of the Torres del Paine W Trek.

On our return to camp, we head to the lodge for a drink at the bar before making dinner at the buzzing campers’ cooking area.

In addition to the bar, there’s a restaurant at Grey, and a small shop selling snacks and camp food basics. There’s an equally small toilet and shower block for campers (the showers only have certain hours of operation but the water is hot).  

We’re in bed by 9pm and prepped for a very early departure in the morning.

Day 5: Grey Sector to Paine Grande Sector (and return to Puerto Natales)

Total hiking distance: appx. 11km / 6.8 miles
Total hiking time: 3 hours 15 minutes
Finish: Puerto Natales

1st Leg: Grey Sector to Paine Grande Sector

It’s our last day on the W hike! We’re on the trail early so we can get back to Paine Grande in time for the late morning catamaran across Lake Pehoé to Pudeto, where we’ll pick up the bus back to Puerto Natales. 

It shouldn’t take more than four hours to get back to Paine Grande from Grey sector, but we’re feeling pretty exhausted by this stage and John has nurtured some nasty blisters, so we’re up and on the trail at dawn

It’s freezing when we set out but as the day lightens, we’re treated to a stunning peach-tinted sky reflecting off the lake, and we stop often to snap pics.

Peach-tinted clouds above a lake with snow-capped mountains in the distance, view from the W trail Patagonia.
Sunrise lights up the clouds over Lake Grey.

Despite John’s sore feet, we make good time on the return journey and while we’re climbing for much of the first half, it feels easier than the trek up from Paine Grande yesterday. Maybe it’s because we’re on the home run, even though the thought makes us sad.

Our journey back to Paine Grande takes us 3 hours and 15 minutes, 30 minutes less than yesterday’s hike in the opposite direction. 

We haven’t eaten breakfast and we’re starving by the time we arrive. We were planning to grab something to eat at the restaurant at Paine Grande, but we discover it’s closed between breakfast and lunch. 

We make do with our leftover trail mix instead, which is a bigger deal than you might think: we packed way too much of the bitty hiker’s snack and after five days we have a serious love/hate relationship with it. 

There is a mini-market at Paine Grande that’s open from 7am. But if you’re setting out really early like us, perhaps have something you can eat on the go for this final morning.

2nd Leg: Catamaran across Lake Pehoé from Paine Grande to Pudeto

We’ve timed our hike back to Paine Grande to meet the late morning catamaran for our return to the eastern side of the park.

The boat trip across Lake Pehoé offers spectacular views of the entire mountainscape we’ve spent the last five days traversing. It’s an epic perspective of the W panorama and a mesmerising finale to our W trek itinerary. 

It’s a gorgeous day for us and if the weather is nice, we totally recommend taking a seat outside on the catamaran so you can properly admire the breathtaking scenery.

Lake Pehoé ferry service between Paine Grande and Pudeto

Many hikers on the W Trek will start or finish their hike at Paine Grande sector, with a ferry across Lake Pehoé between Paine Grande and Pudeto, where buses drop-off and pick-up. In this east to west itinerary, the boat trip is on Day 5. If you’re trekking west to east, you’ll take the ferry on your first day.

The Lake Pehoé catamaran operates daily services between October and April. Departure times change from month to month, as do the number of daily sailings.

Over winter (May to September), the service scales back to just twice a month, on the 15th and 30th.

Be sure to check the Catamaran Pehoé boat schedule when you’re planning your trek. If you’re following our east-to-west W Trek in Patagonia self-guided itinerary, which finishes at Paine Grande, adjust your final day hiking start time to ensure you arrive back at Paine Grande at least 30 minutes before the boat is due to depart. 

You can also book your ticket for the catamaran via the website above and it’s recommended to do this well in advance. The cost for the 2025/26 season is CLP$27,000 or USD$30 (one way) and the journey takes around 30 minutes. 

When we hiked, you couldn’t book online so we’ve been following this closely. We’ve been told it is possible to buy tickets at the piers in Pudeto and Paine Grande on the day of travel, but we’ve read conflicting reports online about some people turning up without tickets and being able to board while others haven’t been able to.

To be on the safe side, we would personally look to book online well ahead of time. But if you’ve had first hand experience of turning up and buying your ticket on the day, we’d love to hear from you in the comments below!

View of the Torres del Paine mountains from a catamaran on Lake Pehoé.
Soak up the stunning Torres del Paine mountain panorama in all its glory from the catamaran across Lake Pehoé.

Disembarking the ferry at Pudeto (Google Map), we grab a coffee from the small lakeside café, take a seat in the sun, and enjoy our last moments in Torres del Paine while we wait for our bus. There are loos here too.

Buses returning to Paine Grande are generally timed to align with the catamaran schedule, but it’s a good idea to check bus schedules from the park when booking ferry tickets so you can line up the connections.

If you find you have a bit of time in Pudeto, there’s a trail to Mirador Salto Grande, overlooking the Salto Grande waterfall, around 1.5km walk to the west of the catamaran dock. A further 2km walk beyond the waterfall lookout will bring you to Mirador Cuernos, with stunning views over Lake Nordenskjöld to the Paine massif.

3rd Leg: Pudeto to Puerto Natales

From Pudeto, the bus makes its way back to the Laguna Amarga Ranger Station to collect hikers finishing their trek at the eastern end of the park.

From there, we settle in for the return two hour bus journey to Puerto Natales. 

Day 5 Alternate Route: Grey Sector to Puerto Natales via Lake Grey

When we planned and trekked the W, we were totally unaware that there was an option to finish up the W hike at Grey Refuge and return to Puerto Natales via a completely different route; one that doesn’t involve backtracking to Paine Grande.

This route can be done as part of the Epic W Trek – 5 Days (Guided Group Trek) with Flashpacker Connect, which includes a kayak to Grey Glacier (or glacier walk) and the boat across Lake Grey.

If you’re hiking independently, instead of following our Day 5 itinerary as above, you would instead finish the W Trek at Grey sector and travel across Lake Grey from Refugio Grey to Hotel Lago Grey aboard the Navigation Grey catamaran. You’d then take a bus from Hotel Lago Grey back to Puerto Natales.

Tickets for the Navigation Grey catamaran must be pre-booked online (these are included if you’re on the guided tour above). Bus tickets from Hotel Lago Grey to Puerto Natales can also be booked online (‘Conexiòn Lago Grey’ is the Hotel Lago Grey bus departure point within Torres del Paine).

Key considerations to bear in mind for this alternate route:

  • sailings depend on time of year and number of bookings;
  • the catamaran drops passengers at a beach around 45 minutes to an hour’s walk away from Hotel Lago Grey, so you’ll still have a bit of a walk at the other end;
  • this walk needs to be factored into bus connections from Hotel Lago Grey;
  • weather can cause lastminute cancellations (this can also happen with the Lake Pehoé catamaran); and
  • the cost for the catamaran is around CLP$100,000 per adult (appx USD$105).

Wrap up

Tonight, back in Puerto Natales, after a good hot shower and a lamentation on the ridiculous amount of trail mix we’ve got left over, we head out for a celebratory drink at Baguales Brewpub, a fab little brewery and restaurant in town.

Our legs might be seizing, our knees protesting and we’re beyond exhausted, but we’re buzzing with the sheer thrill of having completed this epic trek.

We’re already talking about when we might come back and hike the W trail again, or better yet, take on the longer O Circuit. 

However we do it, trekking in Torres del Paine is one nature experience we’re keeping firmly on our bucket list. 

Two people in front of a lake at Paine Grande after hiking the W .

Frequently Asked Questions About the W Trek

We’ve been asked lots of questions about the W trek and our experience of it since we first published this post. Here are our responses to some of the more commonly asked questions we’re asked that we haven’t already addressed above.

Is it better to hike east to west or west to east?


You’ll get a different answer depending on who you ask. West to east is a more popular option for trekkers, as many want to finish with sunrise at the Base Torres lookout. There’s also an argument that as the winds in the park typically blow stronger from west to east, it’s better to travel in this direction and have the wind at your back.

We chose east to west as we wanted to do the harder parts of the hike (Base Torres and Británico) in the first couple of days while we still had plenty of energy. Whichever direction you head, the views will be epic.

It’s worth noting that if you’re planning to do the O Circuit, there’s a one-way, anti-clockwise system in place in the upper section between Serón Camp and Paso Ranger Station, which means you would be travelling the W from west to east by default.

How far in advance should I book accommodations in Torres del Paine?


In light of our own experience, we recommend booking your W trek accommodation as far in advance as possible, and being as flexible as possible. Bookings for the 2025/26 trekking season opened around April.

There are also companies like Flashpacker Connect that offer self-guided W Trek packages that include camping or lodge accommodation (as well as transport, entry fees, camping equipment etc), taking the hassle out of the planning while still giving you the opportunity to trek independently. They also offer small group guided W Trek tours.

Do I need to bring cash or can I pay with a credit card?


We carried credit cards and cash (a mix of both Chilean pesos and US dollars), and we used both while we were hiking the W Trek.

We paid for some smaller things in Chilean pesos, like the shuttle to the Welcome Centre and snacks at campground stores. We paid for other things in US dollars, like the catamaran from Paine Grande to Pudeto. We used our credit cards to buy drinks at the lodge bars. All of the lodges accept credit cards.

Is there mobile/cell phone reception and wifi in the park?


You won’t have a phone signal in Torres del Paine. You can, however, purchase wifi packages at each of the lodges. It’s not cheap though, and we’ve read reports that it can be patchy and slow. Definitely no streaming. All the more reason to disconnect and enjoy your time in nature, which is what we did.

Will I be able to charge my devices?


There are places in all the lodges to charge devices, but the location and availability of sockets varies. Ask when you check-in at each sector.

To be on the safe side, we carried a portable power bank each, one of which was solar charged, and these kept us going through the trek. We also carried spare batteries for our SLR camera.

As there’s no signal in the park, we suggest putting your phone into airplane mode and switching on the battery saver to make your charge last longer.  

What plug type do I need to charge my devices?


The sockets at the refugios are 220V and take Type C plugs. In Chile more broadly, you may also find sockets that need Type L plugs. If you cross over into Argentina, they use Type C and Type I. We had universal travel adaptors with us that had all three plug types.

What size pack should I take?


This depends on various things like whether you are staying in a lodge or camping, whether you’re camping with pre-booked gear or carrying your own gear, and whether you have pre-booked meals, plan to buy food along the way, or will cook your own food.

Between us, we hiked with a large, 60L top-loader pack (which we hired in Puerto Natales) and a 30L daypack. This was more than enough to carry our clothes, toiletries and accessories for the trek, plus food and cooking gear. We pre-booked tents and sleeping bags and carried sleeping mats.

What should I pack?


I always overpack, especially tops and undies – that’s just me. There are things I would definitely swap out if I was doing this hike again, and things I would add. At the end of the day though, you have to carry it, so the lighter the better.

Torres del Paine is an unpredictable, highly-changeable alpine environment, so it is imperative to pack appropriate clothing and equipment for your trek. Layering is key and quick-dry clothing is your friend!

We each had a couple of quick-dry tops, a pair of hiking pants (I also had a pair of leggings), a thin long-sleeve top/quick-dry base layer, a mid-layer fleece, a rain and windproof jacket, thermal pants and top for sleeping in, a beanie and fleece gloves, neck gaiters, three pairs of wool socks, hiking shoes and a pair of lightweight flip flops for the showers. Have spare dry clothes wrapped up in your bag. I’d also take a light puffer next time.

Our accessories and equipment included a large water bottle each, hats and sunnies, inflatable travel pillows, travel towels, toiletries including a travel-sized body wash, deodorant, toothpaste and toothbrush; sunscreen and insect repellent, a small first aid kit with blister patches, head torches, hiking poles, a pegless travel clothesline, mobile phones, power banks and charging cords, a universal power adaptor, and an SLR camera with spare batteries.

We also hired a cooking set with camp stove in Puerto Natales and had some camping gas canisters (one was enough in the end). We had our own mugs, collapsible bowls and sporks.

One more thing, bring something you can put your trash into as you go as you’ll need to carry your rubbish out of the park with you. We packed our daily food into larger ziploc bags, which we then used for waste.

Should I bring my own food or pre-book meals on the trek?


This really depends on your budget and how much you want to carry. If you don’t want to tote all your food around the W, then it’s very easy to pre-book meal packages when you make your accommodation bookings.

You can arrange full-board and half-board packages, as well as individual meals. It doesn’t matter whether you’re staying in a lodge or camping. In some places you may be able to order meals on the day, but it depends on availability. Some of the lodges serve hot and cold snacks and pizzas, just be aware of service hours and the potential for items to be sold out. The mini-marts sell instant noodles and the like.

We organised one full-board package for Chileno as it’s not possible to use camp stoves in that sector due to fire risk. The meals were surprisingly good – hearty, filling and designed to give trekkers the carbs and protein they need. We carried and cooked our own food for the rest of the hike.

Can I drink the water?


There’s no need to lug extra water with you on the W trek. You’ll pass pristine streams regularly throughout your journey, fed directly by the surrounding snow and glacier-capped mountains. Bring a big water bottle, fill up at nature’s tap and enjoy some of the purest water you’ll ever drink. Just remember to top up in flowing water well away from the camps and upstream of the trails. 

We drank from the streams throughout our hike and had no troubles but if you’re concerned, bring a filtered water bottle, a steripen or purification tablets. You can also refill water bottles at the lodges.

Is there boiling water at the campgrounds?


We carried a camp stove and boiled our own water but one of our readers has confirmed that there is boiling water available at all the accommodation sectors on the W. Just be aware that with many others also seeking boiling water for their meals and drinks, you may find you have to queue, or wait for the boiler to refill and reheat.

We’ve also read that in some places, the hot water may be located in an area that isn’t accessible late or early enough for a morning coffee; and that the water sometimes isn’t hot enough to properly rehydrate freeze-dried camp meals. Scroll the comments below for more on this topic.

Do I need to train for the W Trek Patagonia?


It definitely pays to have a good level of fitness for tackling the W Trail. It’s not a technical hike per se, but it does have some steep sections and long hiking days so it requires a reasonable level of fitness and stamina. Weather can have a significant impact. It also depends on how much you plan to carry – toting a heavy pack over several days can be tough if you aren’t prepared for it.  

We were on a long travel stint in the lead up to the W so we were already walking, hiking and carrying packs a fair bit, but we still tried to up our game in this regard, and build more strength ahead of the trek – particularly in our legs, butts and core. Once you’re there though, just go at a pace that suits you and stop whenever you need to.  

Is it better to go self-guided or with a guide?


This really depends on what you personally want to get out of your trek. It’s not difficult to hike the W Trail independently: there are plenty of others around, signage is good, and the trails are (mostly) very obvious.

For some though, going guided makes a huge difference to the experience: an expert guide will introduce you to the nature, wildlife and history of the park, and point out much more than might otherwise be noticed. In Torres del Paine, guides are available year-round, but they’re mandatory from around May until September and sometimes into October.

What’s the weather like?


Trekking high season kicks off during the springtime months of October–November and while the weather is becoming more mild, there’s still a chill in the air, especially at night. There’s also a higher chance of rain and wind at this time of year, even snow.

The summer days of December to February are warmer and sunnier, though ‘warm’ is relative here – highs reach around 20°C (60s°F) and lows can drop below 10°C (40s°F). It can also be windy. 

Autumn paints the landscape red, yellow and orange through March and April, and the mercury slides downwards again as winter nears. We hiked the W trail towards the end of March, and we lucked out with pretty good weather throughout. It was overcast much of the time but we had glorious sunshine here and there. It was mild to chilly during the day and cold at night.

May through September is low season in the park. The upper O Circuit is closed, average temps range from -3°C and below to highs around 5°C. Daylight hours are short, rain is frequent and there can be snow and ice on the trails. Having a guide is mandatory, and appropriate clothing and equipment are essential. 

Torres del Paine weather is highly changeable year-round though, so it’s vital to stay abreast of the weather and wind forecasts and official advice.

Should I bring a rain cover for my pack?


Despite the ever-present potential for rain, we were told to skip rain covers for our packs. While we never experienced the legendary winds that tear through the park from time to time, we heard plenty of stories of pack covers being whipped off suddenly and disappearing into the wilds. If you want to take one, make sure it’s fitted and can be secured to your pack. Otherwise, pack all your gear in bag liners or dry bags inside your backpack instead.

Useful Travel Resources

Stays: We use Booking.com for its wide choice of stays and Genius perks.

Car Rentals: Our go-to is DiscoverCars for a wide choice of hire cars with great rates and free cancellation.

eSIMs: To stay connected when travelling, we use Airalo eSIMs.

Tours: For guided treks and self-guided trek packages in Torres del Paine (including transport and accommodation in the park), visit Flashpacker Connect. Check out GetYourGuide to find great local experiences around Puerto Natales.


We hope you’ve found our post on hiking the W Trek helpful! If you’ve got a question or if you’ve been hiking in Torres del Paine recently, we’d love to hear from you – drop us a message below!

For more exciting experiences and things to do in this incredible corner of the world,
head to our Chile page or our South America section. Or, for some global adventure inspiration, check out round-up of Epic Adventures around the World.

101 thoughts on “Hiking The W Trek in Patagonia: A Self-Guided Itinerary [2025-26]”

  1. Thanks for this incredibly helpful blog which we read a few times prior to completing the W from E-W (self guided) in late November 2025.

    A couple of additional tips for anyone planning to go:
    1) if you stay in the dorms at Central Refugio each small bedside lamp in the room has a built in USB A socket. There is also a microwave behind the bar which they kindly allowed us to use.
    2) Los Cuernos has been newly renovated this year and was far and away our favourite accomodation / bar (we stayed in an elevated tent). There was no microwave. The bar area had lots of games and was very social. It was much nicer than ‘Frances’ looked, when we walked through. Showers were v hot!
    3) We took our own food for the first two nights (Central and Cuernos) – you could buy pizza and quesadilla’s at both properties, and we went half board for Paine Grande and Grey. From a convenience perspective (i.e. not carrying food / cooking stuff) the half board was a good option. Was it worth it $ wise? Probably not. I definitely wouldn’t do full board unless you don’t want to take any of your own snacks and carry them for the entirety of the trek. We did discreetly make sandwiches at breakfast to eat on the trail when we were half board (no-one said we couldn’t) – bread was freshly made and lots of cheese and tomatoes for fillings.
    4) hot water is available at every lodge / camp site – we were never asked to tip / pay for it. We filled our water bottles up in running streams and had no issues.
    4) My top tip; take some protein powder, and mini tuna tins – the protein hit was needed and hit the spot in raising energy levels!

    It’s a beautiful trail – enjoy 🙂

    Reply
    • Hey Jo and Andy, thanks so much for your message and your feedback from the trail, we’re really happy you found our blog post helpful in your prep! Sounds like you had a fantastic time on the w trek and your tips and insights are awesome – thank you!

      Reply
  2. Hello,
    I’m planning on doing the W-trek and booked the 11am catamaran from Paine to Pudeto and only see two evening buses back to Puerto Natales. Do you know if there are earlier options to bus back to Puerto Natales for those taking the early catamaran ride? If not, any insight into waiting in Pudeto for 5+ hours?

    Reply
    • Hi Zuleica, thanks for your message. Buses usually time their departures from Pudeto to align with the catamaran schedule throughout the day. If you’re not seeing daytime bus services for the date you’re looking at, it’s possible they’re already booked up. Was that checking through Busbud? You could also try checking http://www.recorrido.cl/en (a Chilean bus booking platform), or the Bus Sur website direct. If you’re not finding more availability online, the safest option is probably to lock in a seat on one of the buses you can see availability for now, and then see if you are able to change the departure time if an earlier option becomes available, either online through cancellations or at the bus station in Puerto Natales before you head to the park (the T&Cs for your ticket will specify whether this is possible). We have heard of people with later bus bookings getting on earlier buses if there are free spots on the day, however there are no guarantees (have cash in case this is possible but it’s with another company or you’re not able to use the ticket you have on an earlier service).

      If you do find you have five hours at Pudeto, there is a seasonal cafeteria near where the catamaran comes in. There are also a couple of viewpoints you can hike to from the catamaran dock if weather and wind allow: there’s a trailhead around 650m to the west of the dock to Mirador Salto Grande (a beautiful waterfall with mountain views a little under 1km from the trailhead), and then on to Mirador Cuernos (a further 2km or so), with views across Lake Nordenskjöld to the Paine range. The total walk is a little over 6km and would take a couple of hours return.

      All the best with your planning and your hike!

      Reply
  3. GREAT information – we are looking forward to making our trip this December. Could you please tell me if my power adapter type C will work and do I need an inverter? We are then planning on heading over to the Argentina side and I believe we need a type L adapter? Also wondering if each of the refugios have hot water available for hydrating our food, coffee, etc. Thank you again for your help and for all of this valuable information you have shared!!

    Reply
    • Hi Deanna, thanks for your message! We personally used power banks when we hiked so we didn’t charge in the refuges at the park, however we understand the refuges have 220V sockets that take Type C plugs. The location of the sockets and their availability varies from refuge to refuge so best to ask where you can charge when you check-in. As Chile also has Type L sockets, while Argentina requires a combo of both Type C and Type I, we suggest travelling with a universal power adaptor (we had a couple with all three plug types).

      As for hot water, we carried a camp stove and boiled our own for hot drinks and cooking, but if you scroll through the comments below, you’ll find Will (19 Feb 2025) who did the W earlier this year – he said he found hot water available in all of the sectors he stayed at and provides details. He does note that at one site the location of the hot water wasn’t accessible in the early morning (though he was able to get some in the end). We’ve read a similar comment elsewhere online; in that situation the person had a thermos with them and topped up the night before…apparently the water was still warm enough for their morning coffee! 🙂

      All the best with your travel planning and have a fantastic time on the W in December!

      Reply
  4. Hi, I Loved reading this entire article, and it has given me so much clarity on this hike. I am planning this with my husband for the End of November.
    We are thinking of staying at Hotel Torres for one day before we start the hike. We want to rest from our long travels, so we will leave all our luggage there. For the first hike day, how much more will we walk if we decide to come back to Hotel Torres on our first night(Las Torres), or should we just stay in Chileno?
    Also, which camera did you use to take these beautiful shots?

    Reply
    • Hi Bhakti, many thanks for your message. Based on our own hike, it’s around 5km from Hotel Las Torres to Chileno (this took us around 2 hours) and then a further 4.4km up to the Las Torres mirador (which took us another 2 hours). So if you were to return to Hotel Las Torres on the same day, you’d be doing the same distance again in reverse and looking at a total hike of around 18.8+ km and at least 8 hours (hiking only), noting this time will vary depending on your own hiking pace plus additional time for breaks along the way and time at the mirador.

      It does make for a long day but if you’re staying the first night at Hotel Las Torres, you can get onto the trail early, plus the sun sets later in November, giving you lots of daylight hours.

      It would also be worth doing some online research to see what others are saying about doing the Hotel Las Torres – Las Torres return route on the same day.

      Thank you also for your kind words about the pics in our post. We hiked with a Canon EOS but many of these shots were taken with our iphones! You really can’t go wrong when the scenery is as beautiful as this.

      Enjoy your trek!

      Reply
  5. Really helpful guide, thank you. Do you know how far in advance you can book accommodation. Looking for December this year / Jan 2026 and can only seem to book April this year at the moment.

    Reply
    • Hi Iain, thanks for your message. Bookings have in the past opened around May/June (and later) for the next trekking season, but reservation opening dates and what’s released when is very much at the behest of the companies running the refugio/camping zones (Las Torres Patagonia and Vertice Travel). I’d suggest contacting both companies directly for an indication of when they intend to open bookings for the 2025/26 season, and also keeping a close eye on both sites over the coming months. All the best!

      EDIT: Hi again Iain, thought I’d share the following I received from Vertice Travel on 18 March: “the reservation system for the upcoming 2025-2026 season is not yet available. The estimated opening date for reservations for next season is before the end of the month. There is no exact date, but you can write to us again next week.” Still waiting to hear back from Las Torres.

      Reply
  6. Hi Danielle and John,
    I want to travel in W trail.
    I wanted to ask if it is possible to cook food yourself in a French campsite on the trail.
    Thank you
    Olga

    Reply
    • Hi Olga, portable stoves can be used in the designated areas/shelters at each campsite, including Frances – cooking is only allowed in these designated areas. The exception is the Chileno sector, where stoves are banned from use due to the risk of forest fire. Happy trekking!

      Reply
    • Hi Olga! When are you planning to go? I am looking for 2 other people to share the costs with me and my partner

      Reply
  7. Thanks so much for this, its brilliant. We found it really useful when we did the W trek a few weeks ago, it was amazing! I also sent this to a friend who depended on it!

    Just to add, because I know at least one person has asked, we found boiling water at all the campsites we stayed at. We struggled to find this info before we went but we’re glad we didn’t take a stove as some people suggested on reddit, we were carrying enough as it was.

    In Centro the boiling water dispenser is in the room where you check in for camping. The only annoying thng is that they don’t open this room until 9:30am but they did let me in a bit early just to get hot water.

    Frances – its in the cafeteria.

    Paine Grande – there is one in the shop next to a tip jar. There is also one in the restaurant that you might be able to use but not sure whether you’re supposed to without meal tickets.

    Grey – same again, one in the shop where they ask for tips and one in the restaurant.

    Reply
    • Hey Will, huge thanks for sharing this info about access to boiling water, it’s great to hear latest updates on the W Trek from fellow trekkers!

      We’re also still trying to confirm whether trekkers can buy catamaran tickets when they turn up at the docks in Paine Grande and Pudeto easily enough – is this something you did or came across during your trek?

      Thanks again and cheers also for the lovely feedback, we’re stoked you found our post useful and that you had an amazing hike!

      Happy travels,
      Danielle & John

      Reply
      • Thank you!

        We had bought tickets online to get the boat from Paine Grande to Pudeto (before we even went to TdP). It looked like most other people had too. There were a few people in the queue who didn’t have tickets, they were taken to one side and it looked like they needed to wait for the next boat. So I’d recommend buying tickets in advance if possible.

        Reply
    • Hello!
      Your experience has been really useful while planning to go this December.
      Do you know if there is also boiling water at the Chileno camp?
      Thank you!

      Reply
      • Hi Mónica, thanks for your message! Not sure if Will stayed at Chileno but just wanted to jump in as well and note that while we didn’t personally check this (as we had a meal package), I have seen multiple forums now where campers have confirmed they had access to boiling water at Chileno. I did see one camper mention though that the water at Chileno wasn’t hot enough to cook their dehydrated meal – maybe something to keep in mind. Another mentioned there can also be queues for the boiling water and waits when the water needs to be topped up/reheated (but that can happen at every camp). All the best with your trip planning and have a fantastic trek in December! ~Danielle

        Reply
  8. Hello! Thank you so much for posting this – I am planning to hike the W trek in late November this year over Thanksgiving. It’s good to know that you would spend more time in the French Valley if you were doing the trek again – would this itinerary potentially make sense?

    Day 1: Hike to Torres base and sleep in Chileno
    Day 2: Chileno to Cuernos
    Day 3: Cuernos to Britanico viewpoint to Frances
    Day 4: Frances to either Paine Grande or Grey

    I want to leave enough time in Grey to do the swinging bridge section and possibly Kayak, so I think I will likely need 1 night there, so I’m trying to determine if it’s feasible to hike from Frances straight through to Grey, or if that would be too much and if it would be better to just do a short day on Day 4 to Paine Grande, then hike to Grey the next day on Day 5 and spend the night, then hike or take the boat back to Paine Grande on Day 6?

    Reply
    • Hi Greer, excited to hear you’re planning to hike the W this coming November! Your itinerary makes sense given you’re looking to build in plenty of time at Grey for the swinging bridge/s and kayaking. It’s possible to hike from Frances through to Grey in one day – it would be a big hiking day, around 21km and appx 7 hours of hiking plus breaks. But doing it that way would give you all of Day 5 to hike out and back from Grey to the suspension bridges (apparently the first bridge is around 30-40 minutes from Grey and the second around an hour beyond the first bridge, so you’re looking at min 3 hours return plus time for pics etc) and then join an afternoon kayaking tour. Then head back to Paine Grande on Day 6.

      The alternative is to, as you suggest, spend the night of Day 4 in Paine Grande and set out very early on Day 5 from Paine Grande to Grey. You’d need plenty of time to hike to Grey and beyond to the suspension bridge/s and back by early afternoon for a kayak tour. That’s a lot of hiking and kayaking for one day and potentially a bit time-pressured if you’ve got a tour to be back for.

      Just a note also that the boat from Refugio Gray doesn’t go to Paine Grande, it travels across Lake Grey to Hotel Grey. Boat access to Paine Grande is only via Lake Pehoe from Pudeto. So if you’re heading back to Paine Grande from Grey, you’d need to factor that hike time into your itinerary too.

      If you’ve got the time to slow the pace and enjoy the experiences without rushing, we’d personally go for that!

      All the best with your planning and happy hiking!

      Reply
  9. Thank you for this incredibly detailed and helpful post. I’m planning a really similar trek 🙂

    You mention locking up your bags at Italiano, but then say on your return they were just in a pile — I have heard it’s just cubbies/a pile from other sources too. I was wondering if you can speak a little bit more about how you secured your packs when you left them and took a day pack? Both at Italiano and other instances that you left packs at other refugios during out-and-back hiking. (Or do folks just carry all valuables in the day pack and the big pack is essentially unsecured?)

    Also how big of a day pack did you use (just 1 between the 2 of you?)? Any recommendations on what to use? I’m debating spending a bit more $ (and weight) to get a day pack that attaches to the outside of my existing big pack, so that it’s easy to pack it all before going out and just detach and re-attach… versus a super light foldable/stuffable one.

    Last Q: For some of the days, there is significant downtime after hiking. I am planning to bring a deck of cards, but debating in terms of weight and the inconvenience of having valuable/wet-intolerant electronics on whether to bring anything more for entertainment (e.g. Kindle or iPad). Any thoughts on this?

    Thanks again!

    Reply
    • Hey Sora,

      Thanks so much for your feedback, it’s very much appreciated! Thank you also for your query about leaving packs at Italiano and other places on the trek; I’ve adjusted the text here so it’s clearer; we actually only left our big daypack here (making sure all its access points were locked) and carried our smaller daypack with us.

      We were on a long travel stint when we hiked the W, and travelling with two large backpacks plus two daypacks. We didn’t want to tote the large packs through Torres Del Paine (and we also wanted to leave most of our longer-term travel gear back at our hotel), so for the hike, we hired a 60L top loader backpack in Puerto Natales, and also carried one of our decent-sized daypacks; this was more than enough for clothes, food, camping and camera gear for the two of us.

      At Italiano, there wasn’t anything to lock packs to, we just moved all our valuables into our daypack with lunch, and made sure our big pack was locked up. We also did this at Chileno. To be honest, I’m never stoked about leaving our gear (and would probably have hesitated if there wasn’t a ranger at the station), but we just made sure there was nothing important in the big pack and that it had good locks on it. I would note that we also travel with a cable lock and would have used this had there been something to lock the big pack to.

      In relation to downtime, we actually found that by the time we’d arrived at a campground, got our tent organised, had a scout around and/or a drink at the lodge bar, showered, made dinner and then cleaned up, we were totally shattered and pretty much straight into our sleeping bags! Charging electronics is a consideration if you’re camping over the five days – we carried a solar charger and power banks.

      Hope this helps and all the best for your W trek!

      Reply
    • Hi Bobbie, we personally booked each night ourselves direct with the accommodation providers in the park (Las Torres Patagonia and Vertices Travel), it just required a bit of dates flexibility working across two separate booking providers to sort an itinerary that suited us.
      Cheers, Danielle

      Reply
  10. Hello,

    We are a group of 65 yr olds, experienced hikers, wanting to do the W trek in late Nov 2025. We are a little worried by the first day; our travel agent is suggesting we depart PN on the first bus, entering the park and leaving our packs at Central Refugio, hiking to the Mirador Las Torres and returning to Central for the night. Is this too much for one day? Would we be better off staying an extra night at Central and starting out our second day early mnorning to do the Mirado kie as oppose to starting at 11:00ish? We don;t really have an extra day but we could make it happen if recommended. Your blog has been extremely useful in our planning. Thank you

    Reply
    • Hi Catherine

      Thanks for your message and great to hear you’re planning to trek the W next year!

      We stayed at Refugio Chileno on Day 1 rather than returning to the Welcome Centre/Centrale and we hiked for around 6 hours, plus an hour for lunch and an hour at the Las Torres mirador. Based on our pace, it would have taken us around 2 more hours to get back to Centrale from Chileno, so appx. 8 hours of hiking all up.

      This aligns with what we’ve seen in recent forum reports from others who have hiked Centrale > Las Torres mirador > Centrale in one day – the average for relatively fit hikers would appear to be around 8 to 10 hours, depending on pace, how often you stop, how long you spend at the top (30 minutes or so seems to be typical), and potentially how busy it is on the trail (noting it does get quite a bit busier as the buses from Puerto Natales start to arrive).

      It is a big day but the bonus is that sunset in late November is around 9.30pm, so even if you set out around 11am, you have a good 10+ hours of daylight to work with.

      It’s definitely worth checking out forums such as TripAdvisor and Reddit for more insights from other hikers who have hiked Centrale > Las Torres > Centrale in one day as this may help further with your planning.

      All the best and we wish you and your group a wonderful time on the W!
      Danielle & John

      Reply
  11. The information you provided is extremely helpful. We are visiting TDP in January 2024. One question I have is: We are taking the boat from Hotel Lago Grey one way to Refugio Grey and staying overnight at Refugio Grey. We have two options the next day. One is to hike to Paine Grande and then take the catamaran to Pudeto and drive back to our hotel. The second option is to hang out for the day at Grey and hike around Grey or maybe do the kayak excursion and then take the boat back to Hotel Lago Grey where we would have left our rental car and then drive to our hotel. In your opinion which option would be more scenic? We will be hiking from Paine Grande to Frances and then Chilean a few days later.

    Reply
    • Hi Bob, thanks for reaching out, your trip sounds great! Tough questions though, as we love the sound of all your options!

      Kayaking on Grey Lake is something we really wish we’d had time to do when we were there, so I know I’d personally lean towards that if I had the chance. As you’re also planning to hike Paine Grande to Frances and Chileno during your visit, kayaking would be a nice way to mix up your experience of TDP (and get you closer to the glacier and ice bergs). As you said, you could spend the morning hiking around Grey and do part of the trail south towards Paine Grande for a taste of that stretch of the W, or north of Grey towards Paso and the glacier.

      Having said all that, the half-hour Lake Pehoe catamaran is a wonderful, relaxed way to take in the full epic panorama of the Paine Massif, and the hike between Refugio Grey and Paine Grande is beautiful. Also a solid option.

      I guess it comes down to what you most feel like doing and/or how active you want to be. Either way, it’s a win.

      We’d love to know what you decide! All the best with your planning and have a wonderful time in TDP!

      ~ Danielle

      Reply
  12. Hi there! Thank you so much for this detailed itinerary, it really helped us a lot for our planning and we are looking forward to do it in April 25!

    Just a few questions please. May I know typically how long in advance would I need to book my bus tickets please? Would it be possible to purchase on the actual day instead or would that be too risky?

    In addition, for the last day back to Pudeto, what if the morning Catamaran slot is sold out? Would you recommend taking the 6.40pm one or are there any other options to get back Puerto Natales earlier please?

    Thank you and look forward to your responses!

    Reply
    • Hi Chong Yong, thanks so much for your message and feedback!

      With regards to the bus, we would highly recommend booking your tickets in advance rather than waiting till the day of departure. With TDP becoming ever more popular, you don’t want to run the risk of available services being full on the day, even if you’re travelling later in the season. Perhaps check the bus company terms and conditions to see if there’s scope to change travel dates if needed.

      We’re still seeking confirmation as to whether the Lake Pehoe catamaran sets aside tickets for walk-ups on the day now that it has online booking. We’ll update this in the post as soon as we know more. If you book the PM return just in case, you can make changes or get a refund for a fee (see the ‘policies and conditions’ page on the catamaran website).

      The overland alternatives to taking the catamaran are to hike east back to Laguna Amarga for the bus back to Puerto Natales, or hike south from Paine Grande to the Park Administration HQ (around 18km/5hrs) and take a bus from there back to PN. The map we link to in the post shows these trails.

      There’s also a boat tour of Grey Lake that departs from Grey Refugio and travels to Hotel Grey, where buses pick up for PN.

      If you’re planning to stay overnight at Refugio Paine Grande, it might be worth contacting them directly for any advice they can provide about the catamaran.

      Hope this helps a bit, and all the best with your planning!

      Reply
  13. What a super break down of your trip! We are planning to do the W and then go to El Chalten. I was wondering if after your trip you flew back out of El Calafate to Buenos Aires or if you bused back and flew to Santiago. Thank you

    Reply
    • Hi Pauline, thanks for your message! We did the W Trek as part of a much longer overland trip through South America, so after finishing the trek, we travelled to El Calafate and El Chalten by bus, and then from there we continued on north by bus to Bariloche.

      Happy trip planning and we hope you have a fantastic trek!

      Reply
  14. What a exciting blog to read with so many helpful insights! We are currently planning a “half a W-Trek’ focusing on the Western portion for 3 day/2night stay, one in Britanico and one in Refugio Los Cuernos before returning to Pehoe Lake.

    Reply
    • Hi Reinier, thanks for your message and kind words! Your trip sounds great, we hope you have a magical time exploring the western half of the W! All the best, Danielle & John

      Reply
  15. Thank you so much for this rundown – working on booking for this winter now. Would love your opinion about 2 things:
    1. On the day we’re hiking into Grey, I was thinking about trying to add the glacier kayak excursion on that afternoon – do you think that would all be doable in 1 day? Were you aware of folks who did it?
    2. On the last day, I was thinking we’d hike out, take the catamaran, bus back to Puerto Natales, and catch the 5:00pm bus to Punta Arenas. Based on your experience, do you think that would be doable?

    Reply
    • Hey Mark, Thanks for your message – great to hear you’re planning a W trip!

      The kayaking sounds awesome. It certainly sounds possible to hike to Grey and do the kayak tour on the same day, assuming there are tours running later in the day? As an indication, it took us around 3 hours 45 mins to hike the 11km from Paine Grande to Grey at an average pace. You may do it quicker or slower depending on your own pace, but if you aim to set out from Paine Grande early morning, you should reach Grey campground/lodge by late morning/early afternoon, which would potentially give you time to check in to the campsite/lodge and then join a late afternoon kayak tour? I’d personally make sure there was a good amount of time between my estimated arrival and the tour departure just in case, that way you can enjoy the hike to Grey without rushing.

      We usually err on the side of caution when it comes to transport as well, as while most of our bus travel in Chile/Argentina was issue-free, we did experience occasional bus delays and lastminute cancellations. Bearing in mind the bus from Pudeto to Puerto Natales takes a couple of hours, we’d be looking to put in a decent buffer between that and the Punta Arenas service, just in case you’re held up at any point along the way. Less stressful!

      All the best with your planning and have a wonderful time in Torres del Paine! Let us know if you do end up hiking and kayaking on the same day!

      Reply
  16. I been to Asia a couple times but never to enjoy much of the nature. Your destinations and experiences have me wanting to explore more of the hiking trails abroad. Thanks for sharing!

    Reply
  17. Thanks for your info, it helps a lot. I’m planning to do W trek in coming January. If I book the camp, can I also use the facilities in the shelter (like shower and toilet)?

    Reply
    • Hi Karen, all of the campsites along the W have dedicated facilities for campers, including showers and toilets. Some have cooking areas for campers as well. Happy planning and have a wonderful trek in January! Cheers, Danielle

      Reply
  18. Great website! We’re hoping to do this February/March 2025, and are wondering how best to spend our time on either side of this hike. Did you travel to El Calafate and El Chalten while you were in the area? Or do you recommend other areas down there? Any advice greatly appreciated!

    Reply
    • Hi Lisa, thanks for your message! Fantastic to hear you’re planning a trip to Patagonia! Besides the W Trek, there are various activities you can do in and around Puerto Natales and Torres del Paine, like boat trips on Grey Lake to Grey Glacier or horseback riding.

      We most definitely did travel to El Calafate and El Chalten after our trek and absolutely recommend, especially if you’re keen to get out on some further hikes. We bussed from Puerto Natales to El Calafate and the next day did a day trip to the Perito Moreno Glacier, which is an absolute must. From El Calafate, we travelled by bus to El Chalten (the panoramas on the bus ride in are wow – try and get the front seats!) and spent a good couple of days exploring this gorgeous area and just hanging out. There are a range of hikes you can do out of El Chalten – the day hikes to Laguna de Los Tres and Cerro Torre are epic.

      If you head south from Puerto Natales to Punta Arenas, you can do day trips to see King penguins, Magellan penguins, whales and dolphins, so that’s another option.

      Have a wonderful time and happy trip planning!
      Cheers, Danielle

      Reply
    • In Calafete, which tour to Perito Merino glacier was a must-do? We have options of ice trekking, kayaking, safari azul, or Mayo do Spirit?

      Reply
      • Hi Lana, difficult choice! All of those options sound great – we did a boat trip out on the lake to the glacier terminus and that was fun, though very sedate compared to ice trekking or kayaking – both would be an amazing way to experience this incredible place. All the best with your planning and have a wonderful time!

        Reply
  19. Thank you for sharing your Patagonia insights! I found it very thorough and incredibly helpful. I we are planning our trip for October 2024. I have a question. How did you book your meal plan?
    Thanks!
    Kim

    Reply
    • Hi Kim, thanks for your feedback, we’re glad you’ve found our post helpful! When you go through the booking process for each accommodation (including camping) along the trail, you’ll have the opportunity to add meals as part of those bookings. Links to the accommodation providers are in the post. Good luck with your planning and happy trekking in October! Cheers, Danielle & John

      Reply
  20. Hi thank you so much for this detailed blog. It appears that one would have to stay at Frances camp if going east to west in order to shave hiking time on day 3. Is there a bus company through which we have to pre-book a bus ticket from Pudeto ferry to Las Amargo? Or is it a shuttle service?
    Do you have any idea if booking a guided tour via Las Torres means that they carry your heavy rucksacks??
    Is the last day at Grey really worth it ? Or would you rather end the trek on day 4?
    Thank you!

    Reply
    • Hi SK, thanks for your message. Until the CONAF Italiano camp reopens, Frances camp is the closest camp to the Frances Valley so yes, it is the best bet timing-wise for getting in and out of the Frances Valley and on to Paine Grande on Day 3 if travelling from east to west. You could also stay at Los Cuernos, but that would add around 1.5 hours to Day 3.

      The buses running from Puerto Natales to Torres del Paine drop off and pick-up from Laguna Amarga and Pudeto. When you buy your bus ticket to Torres del Paine, you’ll note where you’ll be getting off and on again (it will depend on your itinerary, but for us, travelling from east to west, we got off at Laguna Amarga and boarded at Pudeto on our return. Check out the section in our post on bus tickets to and from the park for more info. There’s a shuttle that runs between the Laguna Amarga ranger station and Hotel Las Torres for a fee.

      We would suggest contacting the tour company you’re interested in for advice about whether porter services are available on their guided tours. We left most of our luggage in one of our backpacks at our hotel in Puerto Natales and carried only what we needed for the trek to keep the weight down.

      We personally feel that every leg of the W is absolutely worth it – the scenery is superb throughout. Five days gave us just the right amount of time to enjoy the whole trail without pushing too hard. To do the trek in four days, you’d likely need to compromise on either the full hike into Frances Valley or the Grey leg in order to reach camps before dark, and we wouldn’t want to skip either. But that’s us. If four days was all we had to trek, we would possibly leave Grey but we’d have to make sure we did a boat tour out to the glacier instead! 🙂

      All the best with your planning! Cheers, Danielle & John

      Reply
  21. This is seriously one of the best breakdowns I’ve read. Patagonia is one of three “Someday” treks I have on my list to head off on once my son is a little bigger and can carry more of his own gear. We’re building up now with longer and longer trips around Central/Eastern Europe

    Love this site!

    Reply
    • Thanks for your message Brian, we really appreciate your feedback. So cool that you and your son are already hiking together, and what an awesome bucket list adventure to look forward to with him! Happy trekking and thanks again! Danielle & John

      Reply
  22. Hi,

    Do you have a map with the accommodations you booked or where you rented out tents/gears?
    Planning on doing this solo in June!

    Thanks!

    Reply
    • Hi Erika, thanks for your message! There’s a trail map available at the official Torres del Paine website: https://parquetorresdelpaine.cl/mapa-2023-2024/ – it shows all the accommodations/campsites along the trail. You can also find links in our post to the accommodation providers we booked our campsites and camping gear through.

      As you’re considering a June trip, we’d also encourage you to check out the official Torres del Paine website for information about winter hiking regulations – https://parquetorresdelpaine.cl/permisos-especiales/. Many of the accommodations and trails close over winter and while you can visit the park, we understand it’s mandatory to have a guide for the W Trek and the trek to the base of Las Torres between 1 May and 30 August (though the timeframes can change depending on weather). All the best with your planning! ~ Danielle

      Reply
  23. Hello Dan,
    What a great find this was. Thank you so much for writing it. I’m looking to mimic your trek with some modifications. I will very likely have a car rental when I arrive into Punta Arenas.
    My plan is to drive myself and 2 others into the park and leave the vehicle parked at the welcome center or hotel (unsure if this is allowed).
    At the end you mention that you ferry to Pudeto- then catch a bus that swings by Laguna Amarga into Puerto Natales.
    Is there a bus that goes directly back to the welcome center or hotel from Pudeto so we can get back in my rental? It looks like the Laguna Amarga ranger station is about 8.5 km from the welcome center.
    Or is it best to just shuttle from Puerto Natales for the whole thing and leave the rental somewhere in town?

    Reply
    • Hi Bruce, thanks so much for your message and feedback! Very good question re. parking – based on our limited research into this, our understanding is that you can leave your car at Hotel Las Torres while you trek if you’re a guest there, otherwise, cars can be parked at the nearby Welcome Centre. We’ve also seen reference online to a small car parking area at Pudeto, so in theory you could arrange bus tickets from Pudeto to Laguna Amarga, and from there get the hotel shuttle to Hotel Las Torres/the Welcome Centre. I would suggest posting your question on Tripadvisor and hopefully someone has done something similar recently and can provide latest info. It might also be worth contacting Hotel Las Torres and asking their advice; no doubt they get questions like this frequently. All the very best for your trip planning and the trek itself – it’s an unforgettable experience! Cheers, Danielle & John

      Reply
  24. Thank you so much for the great information. I’m a long term planner and we’re looking to book for our family of four, Christmas 2024. I found this blog really really helpful in hiking cost effectively.
    Thanks Again!

    Reply
    • Hi Melissa, thank you so much for your message, we’re really happy you’ve found our post helpful in your planning. Also very excited for you and your family – what a fantastic Christmas experience! We hope you have a really wonderful time hiking the W, it’s just such an incredible place! All the best and happy hiking! Danielle & John

      Reply
  25. Thanks for the article, I find it very useful. I have just booked the circuit trail for this April. About that: I looked into using Booking Patagonia for the reservations, and it works really well. Though, there is a downside: they charge an extra $90. You’ll notice this at the very and of the booking process, which I found quite frustrating. For me that was a reason to book directly at Vertice and Las Torres Patagonia, which works fine.

    Reply
    • Hi Valentijn, thanks so much for this update, that’s really helpful to know! Thanks also for your feedback on our post, we’re pleased you’ve found it useful. All the best for your upcoming trip in April, have a sensational time and happy hiking! Cheers, Danielle & John

      Reply
  26. Thanks for the great write up. The details are useful and your descriptions are inspiring. I’m leaving for Chile in a couple days and your post just added to my excitement.

    Reply
    • Hey Mike, thanks so much for your feedback, we hope you have a really fantastic trip. Chile is an incredible country, one of our faves!

      Cheers, Danielle & John

      Reply
  27. Hey Dan,

    Thank you for that informativ Blog!
    I have a question: are there any possibilities to heat up some water in the Refugiés without a stove?

    All the best
    Sophie

    Reply
    • Hi Sophie, thanks for your message!

      As we had a cooking stove (and booked meals at Chileno where stoves can’t be used), we can’t personally say for sure whether hot water is currently available at all of the stops on the route. That said, we did find a trekker’s report online from late 2023 noting that they were able to access hot water (not boiling) through the coffee/tea dispensers at each of the refugios they stayed at, which they used for their dehydrated meals. Would suggest seeing if there are other trip reports from this season, or posting on a forum for latest updates. Or perhaps hire a stove in Puerto Natales and buy a gas canister just to be on the safe side! We’d love to know what you find out!

      Have a magic time trekking the W!

      Cheers, Dan & John

      Reply
  28. Hi guys. Thanks for all the detailed info. Just wondering if you could give an estimate of how much it cost for the W trek. I am being quoted $1180 per person for 4 nights and five days starting 12th February with this included:

    •⁠ ⁠camping accommodation with all the equipment
    •⁠ ⁠all the meals
    •⁠ ⁠transportation from/to natales-park
    •⁠ ⁠park entrance
    •⁠ ⁠catamaran
    •⁠ ⁠welcome kit

    Not sure if this price is really high or if it would work out as that much if I book everything myself separately anyway.

    Many thanks

    Reply
    • Hi Aoife

      Thanks for your message and feedback – we’re really excited for your trek in Torres del Paine.

      We were travelling long-term when we did the W Trek so we went out of our way to keep costs down by booking the campsites directly, carrying some of our own camping gear and bringing most of our own food. Travelling as a pair also helped as the single supplements can add quite a bit. We’d also note that, like everything, prices have hiked post-Covid.

      We’ve included some costings in our post but not many as we’re conscious things can change quickly (plus there are so many potential cost combos for accommodation/food, it’s tricky to provide a general estimate). As the bulk of your costs will be in the camping, gear and food components, you might consider checking out the latest price lists for camping and food package options on the Vertice and Las Torres Patagonia websites; that would give you a sense of costs in the context of your quote. Given how quickly accomm/campsites book up for the season and the challenge of trying to coordinate an itinerary across multiple websites, having a third party making the arrangements, while costing more, would take the hassle out of that.

      All the best with your planning and we hope you have a sensational time trekking!

      Cheers
      Danielle & John

      Reply
  29. Your hikes sounded amazing. We are going in Feb and I wasn’t sure what to expect. Sounds like I should do some training!
    Do you recommend stiff hiking boots to navigate the big rocks or are light hikers enough support?

    Thanks for sharing,
    Karen. Canada

    Reply
    • Hi Karen, many thanks for your feedback! To be honest, if you’re a regular walker/hiker, you may find the W Trek a breeze – we met plenty of people who barely cracked a sweat, lol. As irregular hikers, we found some of the steeper sections a little more ‘breath-taking’ but still very do-able. We both wore regular lightweight hiking shoes and they were fine (apart from John developing blisters towards the end), but we also saw people in solid boots. I guess it depends on your preference. We did find having a hiking pole each was useful on some of the more uneven terrain like the rocky climb to Las Torres. We’d love to hear about your trek when you get back – have a fantastic time! Danielle

      Reply
    • Going in February, cant wait. Did you know how anyone who did the kayak at Grey and talked about there experience?

      Reply
      • Hi Efren, that’s so exciting! We don’t personally know anyone who has kayaked at Grey but we wish we’d had time for it – what an amazing experience! The lake is beautiful and the glacier is epic! If you do kayak, we’d love to hear about it! Have a fantastic time, Cheers, Danielle & John

        Reply
  30. Awesome Post!

    I’m looking at doing this the same direction as you guys did around the same time in 2025.

    You mentioned availibilty determined your campgrounds; that being said would you change any of your stays if you could in retrospect? Maybe saw some better campgrounds/lodges along the way that you wish you could have booked had there been availibilty?

    thanks!

    Reply
    • Hi Chris, thanks for your message and good question! We were on a long travel stint when we did the W Trek so we opted for camping to keep our costs down, plus the campsites we ended up with proved to be very well located for a five-day itinerary. That said, all of the lodges and refuges looked quite nice so if we were to do it again (and we hope to!), we would consider adding some lodge/refuge stays, following the same itinerary. Location-wise, the Cuernos and French refuges would be good alternatives to camping (though these are beds in dorms, which is less appealing to us). We would definitely consider the Cuernos Cabins (2-3 people per cabin), especially if we were planning a longer stay in the French Valley! We’d also consider staying at the lodge at Grey next time as, of all the campgrounds, this was probably our least favourite (plus we were very ready for a bed by that stage!). Overall, the quality of the campgrounds/refuges throughout the park is very good and we were really happy with our camping experience and itinerary. Best of luck with your planning and we’d love to know how you go! Happy travels!

      Reply
    • Hi Kishore Joshi, thank you so much for your feedback, we hope you’ve found it helpful! Wishing you a fantastic W Trek, it really is the most incredible place! Happy travels!

      Reply
  31. Hi! How much cash would we need, knowing that the bus and entrance are paid for and also full board meal plan at the refugios is booked?
    So for snacks, water or other costs etc?
    Do they accept USD or should we have it exchanged? Thanks!

    PS, did you also really use ‘poop bags’ for your used toilet paper along the way? 😅

    Reply
    • Hi Frauke

      Thanks for your message. We carried both USD and Chilean pesos with us just in case, and we were able to use credit cards at the refuges. We paid for the shuttle from Laguna Amarga and the catamaran from Paine Grande in pesos, though we have read that the catamaran operators may take USD in high season. It’s handy to have pesos for smaller purchases like snacks. We carried a refillable bottle and filled up in streams and at the refugios, so we didn’t purchase water.

      We have packed degradable doggy bags for carrying out toilet paper on past hikes! 🙂 On the W Trek though, we carried a loo roll and some trusty Ziploc bags, but we mostly just made strategic use of the campground facilities!

      Happy trekking!

      Reply
    • Hey Iris, thanks so much for your message, we hope you found the post helpful. We found going self-guided very easy – the trails are well trodden and during the peak season, there are plenty of other people hiking too (guides are mandatory in winter). Plus all trekkers have to stay in the designated camping and accomm areas so there are others around and you can stay in dorms if you’re not keen on camping. Conditions can vary dramatically though and it is the great outdoors, so having appropriate gear is essential and hiking with friends is good idea though we hear lots of people do it solo. Everyone we met en route were friendly, encouraging and helpful too. We absolutely loved the hiking the W and hope you get to experience it too! Happy travels! Dan & John

      Reply
  32. Hi!

    This is really helpful thank you so much. Did you have much hiking experience before you took this on? Would you recommend any training prior to going? What size backpack would you recommend taking?

    Thank you so much

    Reply
    • Hi Jo, thanks for your kind words, we’re glad you found the post useful! We’re casual hikers and while we’d done a bit of hiking before the W, it was certainly one of the ‘biggest’ hikes we’d done. We definitely tried to up our walking/hiking game before the W in preparation and glad we did as we personally found some of the steeper, sustained-climbing parts of the trek relatively tough – we just took our time and had lots of breaks; necessary anyway to take in the gorgeous views! I carried a 30L daypack and John carried a 50L backpack – between us we carried everything we needed for the five day hike, but I would note that we didn’t have to carry tents, sleeping bags or mats as we hired these. We hope you have the chance to hike the W trek, it remains at the very top of our hiking list! Happy travels!

      Reply
  33. Thank you all for this awesome breakdown and information! We followed it exactly to book our accommodations and plan to do the trek end of March. Thanks again!

    Reply
    • Hi Kristen, thanks so much for your feedback! We’re stoked you found our post helpful and we’re very excited for your upcoming trip. Torres del Paine is sooooo spectacular, wishing you a fantastic trek – let us know how you go! ~ Danielle & John

      Reply
    • Thanks Dan for the great details and info.

      Hi Kristen. I am doing the trek around of march with a friend. We are travelling from Perth, Australia. Would be great to collaborate in planning.

      Thanks Bikash

      Reply
  34. Hello! This page is fantastic, thank you so much. We are looking at November and can be flexible in terms of dates. Did you book your accommodation first? Are there any other considerations i.e. tickets or entry to the park? Or should we just arrange accommodation and go from there? Do you mind sharing how much you paid approximately for your camping accommodation? No worries if not. Thanks 🙂 Amie

    Reply
    • Hi Amie, many thanks! We booked our accommodation first and a couple of months in advance. Site availability ended up driving our approach to the trek – so it’s good that you have flexibility! Would definitely get in as early as possible to book. Tickets for the park itself are arranged at the park entry office, but you will need to have the accomm bookings in place (and evidence of them) when you get to that point. So it’s important to book the accommodation and bus tickets to the park in advance. Bus tix you can buy when you get to Puerto Natales, but try and do that as soon as you arrive rather than on the day you intend to travel to the park. Prices for camping and cabins may have changed since we trekked, but if you head to the accomm links in our post, you’ll be able to find out the current prices as it’s all bookable online. Hope that helps and have a fantastic trek! Cheers, Dan & John

      Reply
    • Hi Jackie, thanks for your message, we’re really happy you’ve found it helpful for planning. Hope you have a sensational trek!

      Reply
    • Hey Rajesh, thanks for the message.

      The Camping areas are run by three different operators in the park, and you can find links to all three operators in our post.

      All three operators’ websites have information about their camp sites, and how to book.

      Hope this helps.

      John & Dan

      Reply
    • Awesome, thanks Rika, we’re really pleased you’ve found it helpful. It is the most spectacular walk – even if you just did the one leg to Las Torres, you’d have photography opps galore! Happy travels!

      Reply

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